Post pictures of your woodpile/splitting area

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I haven't been posting any of my scrounging lately because it's nothing great. I cut an hour or a tank of gas and quit. End up with a partial or pickup load. Mixed species, Oak, Ash, Cherry and Bradford Pear.

Today I cut a little B. Pear because I'm still not convinced it's a good firewood. Picked up a little Ash, too. Mainly went to the log yard to pick up some dunage to support the two new 4' x 13' stacking pallets. If placed side-by-side, I should be able to stack 5 rows on it. I want to move the pile more out front and get away from the tree in back. Those two back rows get used next year.

I've shown my stacking area before, but I'm doing it again, mainly to shame myself into getting off my rear and get it all stacked. Only a couple of days left of warm, dry weather, then the rain. Taking a break right now to change shirts and get some lunch. I have today's haul to split as well as some W. Oak and Walnut just around the back of the pile. This is the hill I've mentioned before that's tough to get to when the ground gets soft. Have to cross the ground below the walk out basement and the back up the hill to the side of the house. Difficult with a 2 WD truck. Plus I don't want to put ruts in the yard; too hard to mow. So, I'll drag my splitter down there later with my riding mower when the ground gets wet. So if I get the new pallets set and all the currently split wood stacked, I'll be doing good.

IMG_0819.jpgIMG_0822.jpgIMG_0820.jpgIMG_0821.jpg
 
I’ve split up to 5 foot diameter on our splitter, didn’t noodle any. That was when my biggest saw was an 039. I have noodled other logs though. I’m guessing you two talking about the “big ones“ aren’t talking about anything that big, I wouldn’t want a log that big up off the ground.
 
Agreed gravel is a good idea. Depending on your area not real expensive either. Pallet wood sheds are great, they work really well. I always shake my head when I see a " tight" woodshed. Kind of defeats the purpose.

Like this one?

18th Oct 8.jpg

Wood dries out in there over summer. Dry heat over summer makes it happen, wouldn't get away with that in cooler/more humid climes.
 
I originally had two 8' x 8' adjoining bays that I would stack in. There was fence panel sides and tin across the top. It was tucked under the trees along the treeline and never got any wind or sun. Seems like it would be wet all the time the Summer heat. I'd have to pull it out a month before it turned cold, let it dry and then stack it.
 
Thanks for the reply! :)

I fully plan on replacing the pallets as needed - I have access to seeming endless supply and they are free. The idea of the shed is to be a central storage point for us, my parents, and the in-laws firewood(both sets of parents are no longer able to do it themselves). We will fill the shed - then once the wood is seasoned, deliver the wood to various locations. Replace any pallets that are rotten or broken, then repeat the process.
I think you have a really good design lots of airflow in all directions including the pallets underneath the wood
 
Cutting with the grain so it pulls long chips. Picture a standing tree, and the saw bar pointing straight up. That’s the way you cut the log. Some do it instead of splitting on the bigger logs. Of course it’s done after the logs are cut to firewood length.
Pine and Cedar noodles are the best firestarter material there is other than gas. The longer the better.
 
What‘s the biggest you’ve split?
big log on splitter.jpeg
I raise the splitter to save my back running rounds through. This was about as big as I can get up there lifting, sometimes I roll them off the truck bed via a plank. I also load them with my 2520 and the forks. I have split a little over 3' round maple to answer the question. I have replaced the log supports this summer after torturing those and am hoping they are a big improvement.
 
I have gravel in my wood lot. Water still pools and freezes in low spots. Softwood pallet still rot after three years, hardwoods a little longer. It does keep grasses from claiming them. Yesterday I found a place that I can dump the broken/rotted ones for $50. a ton; $10. minimum. I had bought two burning barrels and was waiting for snow. Having cut up twenty pallets, it's a hard way to go. I have about eighty to one hundred to get rid of, and many more as I continue to sell firewood. Load up and dump is the new plan, then they will be gone and done, recycled. I will not be smoking the neighbors out with wet burning pallets.
 
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I raise the splitter to save my back running rounds through. This was about as big as I can get up there lifting, sometimes I roll them off the truck bed via a plank. I also load them with my 2520 and the forks. I have split a little over 3' round maple to answer the question. I have replaced the log supports this summer after torturing those and am hoping they are a big improvement.
Straight grained rounds like that are simple to reduce with a splitting maul....and you don't need to lift them off the ground. If they have big knots in them, then they might stay in the woods! :)
 
I have gravel in my wood lot. Water still pools and freezes in low spots. Softwood pallet still rot after three years, hardwoods a little longer. It does keep grasses from claiming them. Yesterday I found a place that I can dump the broken/rotted ones for $50. a ton; $10. minimum. I had bought two burning barrels and was waiting for snow. Having cut up twenty pallets, it's a hard way to go. I have about eighty to one hundred to get rid of, and many more as I continue to sell firewood. Load up and dump is the new plan, then they will be gone and done, recycled. I will not be smoking the neighbors out with wet burning pallets.
Why not just stack the new pallets on the rotting old ones and gain some time that way and keep driving them down into the ground? I've done that with wood pallets and stacked wood on a smaller scale and it seems to work pretty good if in a more lumpy way. Since you're not building a house and need it plumb, with a good foundation, you can bang the old pallets around a little to get them level enough to put more on top and be stable for wood stacking.
 
Cutting with the grain so it pulls long chips. Picture a standing tree, and the saw bar pointing straight up. That’s the way you cut the log. Some do it instead of splitting on the bigger logs. Of course it’s done after the logs are cut to firewood length.

Saws cut much faster along the grain than across it (bucking) or across the ends. That's the worst, and it's the cut you make when milling lumber.

Often the problem with noodling is that the shavings accumulate so fast that they jam up under the clutch cover.
Even with that, it's the fastest way to split rounds too big to lift onto the splitter, though it does waste some wood.
 

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