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Always take at least a lighter in the woods, even if it doesn't seem all that cold. You may not be far from the truck, but maybe something happens and you can't get to the truck. If you can build a fire and stay warm that removes one of the ways you can die before help comes.

Jack
 
When I head to the woods, I pin my safety kit to the back of my jacket with the big pin I use for my hunting license, I have also added 2 lighters and a small box of wooden matches to the kit. I might look goofy but, having a first aid kit is worth it.
 
Don't do much deep woods cutting, but the one thing I always have is a leaf rake, as most of the trees are on other peoples property, and it sucks to have to ask to borrow their rake. Someone else said it already but it's worth repeating (take the log splitter for big ole logs), and we usually have a ball cart for hauling logs back to the truck (some times its easier than a wheel barrel).
 
Here's a small tip that is helpful to me:

It took me years to realize that on some saws when I am putting on a new chain if it is too snug to go on normally (too tight to go over the bar sprocket), with the bar only on one stud, I angle the bar down like 75 degrees.

It puts slack in the chain and then I can put the chain over the nose. Then angle the bar back into position.

It's like magic.
 
Forgot to include, when doing a large felling and bucking project, I try to place a few rounds where I am dropping a tree, I then lay the tree across them so I can keep my chain out of the dirt, this works if I don't miss!
 
Forgot to include, when doing a large felling and bucking project, I try to place a few rounds where I am dropping a tree, I then lay the tree across them so I can keep my chain out of the dirt, this works if I don't miss!

The best technique I have found for keeping my chain out of the dirt is to cut 1/2-3/4 through the log then use the cant hook to roll the log over so that I can finish the cuts.
 
I read on AS not too long ago about putting chains in a Tupperware container with cardboard or something else in between them and marking the outside with the chain type. I'm gonna pick up some if I can ever remember while I'm out.

I've been cutting some oak all the way up to 40" in diameter and the only way I can figure out to turn them over after cutting one side is to get a chain underneath them, hook it toward the back side and use my truck to roll them over.

I have an old tamping/digging bar that I use to pry big wood apart (that I don't cut all the way through to protect the chain) when noodling them. It also is good for rolling cut rounds.
 
Another tip: no blippin' the throttle in the wood! Wastes gas and time. Keep that thing at WOT or outta the wood, unless you're bucking and trying to miss the dirt, in which case a bit of blippin' is probably a good idea.
 
When at all possible I place limbs on the ground across my fall, then drop. Less damage if I'm doing a home owner tree and keeps the big stuff off of the dirt. = No dirt dulling or much need for rolling, "when it works".
 
-->PULP HOOKS<-- The best tool you never knew you needed. Get two (one for each hand) and every log you pick up just came with handles. ;)


A -->Hookeroon<-- is damn nice to have to for dragging logs out of the back of the truck or up to the splitter..... how many times have you wished your arm was three feet longer. :laugh:

:cheers:
 
round chisel chain can be goofy filed for a more efficent working corner, and is not as hard to learn as square.
when bucking, bore cutting logs in compression is faster than wedges or cutting partially through and rolling.
 
Always take at least a lighter in the woods, even if it doesn't seem all that cold. You may not be far from the truck, but maybe something happens and you can't get to the truck. If you can build a fire and stay warm that removes one of the ways you can die before help comes.

Jack
there are ways around that.

my bro who used to cut out west says he confused the gang when he'd have a small "warm up" fire and they'd ask for matches, to which he'd reply "don't have any." nor lighter. nor magic sparky tool.

he had a chainsaw.

and that's all you need. well that and a little good common safety sense.

you see he'd splash the tiniest amount of mix onto a bit of tissue or tinder and ignite that with the spark plug.

put that in yer bag o' tricks!

(but one of those teeny bics is simpler--so long as you can find it)
 
zippo!!!

(but one of those teeny bics is simpler--so long as you can find it)

You can die before you can get a bic to light...

a bic takes one warm strong good hand to light, due to the childproofing!

if your hands are cold, they can be near impossible.

answer??? ZIPPO

You can light a zippo with one hand easy, even cold, as you can roll it along your leg...

with two fists you can get 'er going.

also, a bic cannot STAY lit without your hand.

Light the zippo.. set it on the ground amongst your tinder pile, and once it gets going, you can use a stick to dig out the zippo. No worse for wear!

I have a zippo in every bag I carry.

Keep them fresh fueled! They will work with gas, but be VERY careful!
 
In my toolbox I keep my loose chainsaw files in taped up drinking straws or stuck between the corrigations in thick cardboard. My last piece lasted 4 years holding a dozen or so files.

when felling on really steep ground a spare piece of starter cord with a bar nut on the end works well to figure what kind a lean you have on trees, or a clear drink bottle works well to if it has a straight side. Open scarfs done low enough can help insure the tree stays put once it hits the ground. Carry a buttrope just in case.

a good 4 inch cut of a truck innertube will go around a fuelcan and give you a good sheath to jam your files, screnches, cleaning brush etc in

On smaller trees I sometimes scarf high and open to keep the trunk off the deck, done right you can get all your undercuts all in before the trunk touches dirt and save bending down the whole time and the high stump with a cut in it can work well as good height sharpening stand.

dont make yourself a set of punji stakes when you cut saplings , cut em real low.
 
look up & listen
tools, leave them on the deck next to the gas & oil, but always keep the saw wrench on hand.
tie the gas & oil together with a string, it helps with portability & prevents gravity inticed run aways..
keep the gas & oil close.
look up & listen
dont run the chain too tight, if you run it loose enough, when it throws you can just roll it back on with longer bars.
if you smoke, under your hard hat is the best place for the cigs.
when you are walking side hill, keep the saw on the up hill side.
when you are walking up hill, keep the bar pointed behind you, infront of you for down hill.
If you fall with the saw in 1 hand, throw it.
Stay out from under the lean & out from brhind of head leaners.
Cut the bottom first.
look up & listen.
dont cut gol faces.
stay away from guys with thick glasses.
look behind you, or the bears will get you.

I hit a wall, its bed time, more later..
 
3 in one picture here.
Old sox's. Just cut em down and put em on as wrist guards, sweat bands or handy rag for in field cleaning.
Old rake handles. Cut down make suitable chain file handles which can be stowed in the bar guard.

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Worked for Asplundh in Oz for some years, when you started the boss gave you a roll of fencing wire and duct tape. Whats this for? You soon found out, it held the fleet and tools together.
 

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