Re-sawing milled lumber

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slabmaster

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I'm thinking on getting a bandsaw to resaw my milled lumber. I'm looking at a Rikon 14" with a 13" resaw capacity.But it only can take a blade that's 3/4" or smaller.Is 3/4" to small for resawing 8" boards without wandering in the cut? I can't fit a bigger bandsaw in my shop, so if i can get away with this one, i will get it. It only weighs 250lbs.And runs on 110 volts.It has a 1and1/2 hp. motor.But i have no problem putting a bigger motor on it.
 
I have a Ridgid 14" from Home Depot that I added a riser block to so I could resaw up to 12". I have a 3/4" blade on it right now and it cuts very straight compared to the 1/2" I had before, which was all over the place. I keep a little more tension on the band for resawing than the saw's tension indicator recommends too. I believe that mine has only a 3/4 or 1HP motor which has been fine for me so far, but you're probably working with harder wood than I usually do. 1-1/2 HP should be pretty good for now, but like you said it's easy to swap that out. I don't know how your shop is equipped, but if you have 220V I'd switch the motor over if possible. You can run way more on a circuit and the motor can draw more power under load without tripping a breaker.
 
I can't fit a bigger bandsaw in my shop.

Me too, Much to the annoyance of SWMBO the saw lives on our back veranda on a mobile base.
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I'm thinking on getting a bandsaw to resaw my milled lumber. I'm looking at a Rikon 14" with a 13" resaw capacity.But it only can take a blade that's 3/4" or smaller.Is 3/4" to small for resawing 8" boards without wandering in the cut? I can't fit a bigger bandsaw in my shop, so if i can get away with this one, i will get it. It only weighs 250lbs.And runs on 110 volts.It has a 1and1/2 hp. motor.But i have no problem putting a bigger motor on it.

First of all, with all the losses, it takes about 12 amps on 115 volts to make "one" decent hp... So you can figure they are over rateing there motor... Happens all the time... Check the name plate on the motor to see what the motor draws, then you will know forsure...

Secondly, to resaw on a bandsaw, it's really MUCH more about the quality of the saw, than the width of the blade... A poorly made/balanced bandsaw won't resaw worth a **** no matter how wide the blade, or the hp.

A decent 14" bandsaw that's tuned up "properly" will easily resaw 8" boards with a good quality 1/4" skip tooth blade... That's what i keep on my Delta 14", and i've resawn 12" wide with it...

Quality and tune up of the saw, with a quality blade is really what it's all about...

Rob
 
It's my understanding that in recent test the ricon 1&1/2 horse 14" saw out powered the laguna and grizz 2hp 14" saws.So yes the motors hp can be decieving.The rikon motor is rated 14/7 amps.It was the only 14" saw that didn't stall under load in fww test and that was against the 2hp laguna and grizz.and a guy told me it has more power than his 2hp delta as well so i might not have to put a bigger motor on it.
 
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It's my understanding that in recent test the ricon 1&1/2 horse 14" saw out powered the DElta and grizz 2hp 14" saws.So yes the motors hp can be decieving.The rikon motor is rated 14/7 amps.


I've never seen a Delta 14" with a 2hp motor, and the Delta site doesn't show one either, http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/CategoryOverview.aspx?catPath=4274.4313.4325 so that info may not be too accurate? Delta's 1-1/2hp motor draws 12.8 amps, so it's not a full 1-1/2hp either.

Don't be stuck on HP, it's the quality of the saw and band that makes the difference!

My Delta bandsaw is an model i bought new in the 80's, so it's an older American made saw, not one of the current models.

If you want a quality 14" resaw these days, you need to buy one of the european models. I've used them at shows, and they are really good. I resawed on an 14" Laguna, and it really did a great job.

BTW, my Norwood bandsaw mill resaws quite good, and i've used it for that purpose too...

SR
 
I use 3/4" blades on mine and get no wandering, good straight cuts. I could put a 1 1/4 blade on it but the 3/4 cuts so straight I havnt bothered.
 
1 HP = 746W, so a motor on 110V drawing 14A unloaded can actually develop 2 HP (110V X 14A = 1540W) and remain on spec for a 110V 20A circuit, no problem. The problem is with how motor manufacturers advertise a motor's power rating - some measure the current draw with no load, some with a partial load, and some with a full load that maxes out the circuit. So while a 1 HP motor might draw 1500W or more if you load it to the point of stalling it, all that excess energy is being lost to heat and the motor is still only putting out 1 HP of work. A 2 HP motor is impossible at 12A (1320W) but under load a 12A motor probably does draw over 1500W, but it's still not doing 2 HP of work.

So IMO based on the math, it would be more correct to call the Rikon a 2 HP and the others 1-1/2 HP. Just my 2¢. And all of them make mine look like a heap, though it has done well for what I paid for it.
 
My current bandsaw is a Craftsman badged Parks made around 1960. it is an 18" saw with a 12" resaw capacity and has a 1hp motor. I run a 1/2" variable pitch, variable tooth blade. The baldes I use are sold by Highland hardware as their woodslicer brand. The variable tooth is similar to a 3tpi but the spacing between each tooth is uneven as is the pitch. In practice this eliminates the harmonic vibration of the blade and allows it to be used with less tension which is a big benifit if you are using a 14" saw with a riser block because too much tension can cause frame distortion and wheel misalignment issues. A side benifit is that the blades are also significantly quieter.

The down side is that the blades are almost 2x the cost of a standard blade. but they do last 2x as long. the catch is that for the first half of the blade life the quality of the cut is unlike anything you have ever seen come off a bandsaw, then the second half of the blade life will produce a cut quality similar to what you are used to.these blades really are worth the money.

my previous saw was a 1920's 16" bandsaw with a 9" resaw capacity and a 3/4 hp motor. I used to run 1/2" 3tpi blades and could get satisfactory resaw results but I could bog the motor down on tough woods like elm or locust. The blades were fine but 3/4 hp is a bit small if you plan on doing a lot of resawing. for an ocasional 8" board it is fine.

Also one thing I would recomend for resawing is not to use roller guides. you can get just as good of results with solid guides and the huge amounts of sawdust produced when resawing will gum up roller giuides in no time.
 
So IMO based on the math, it would be more correct to call the Rikon a 2 HP and the others 1-1/2 HP. Just my 2¢.

There's nothing wrong with your math, EXCEPT it assumes it's a perfect world. Sooo, your math does not take into account the losses of paper HP to real HP. (losses = friction, heat, rotational losses ect.)

When you get down to the actual HP, it comes out to about 12 amps on 115V to make a decent hp...

Anyway, you don't need big hp to resaw 8" boards... My saw has a real 1hp motor on it, and with the 1/4" bi-metal bands i use, it resaws quite well.

SR
 
Thanks for all the replies! My rikon has a 1950 ft./min. high speed.What is the best speed for resawing? I did pick up a timberwolf 4 tpi 1/2" blade to do it with as the saw doesn't come with one.
 
I haven't used a bandsaw with more than one speed, but with almost all other sawing I've done, faster always seems to be better provided there is enough drive power to keep the speed up in the cut. Blades seem to start to wander more as they slow down - true for chainsaws and circular blades too.

I'm interested in seeing how the 1/2" blade will treat you. Mine couldn't resaw straight for even a few inches, so I swapped it out for the NIB 3/4" I had and haven't looked back. I'm not sure if the 1/2" was dull or something, but it was fairly new and hadn't seen much use so it shouldn't be. The 3/4 so far is cutting poker straight to within 1/32", 9" high by 18" long resaw - not bad for a cheap $350 3/4 hp bandsaw, so yours should do even better.
 
I just used my Rikon 18" bandsaw to resaw a bunch of cherry that I first cut with the CSM into 10"x10" by 6 foot long pieces. The results were horable until I built a 6 foot sled that runs in the miter slot. It was way to hard to get consistent results using the fence.

I like woodslicer blades but the kerf is to narrow for using on green wood. Because of the narrow kerf and minimal set they can't really be resharpened either so they are pretty expensive in the end ($40, single use.) I save the woodslicer for crital tasks and use a 1" 1.3 tooth per inch blade that I get welded up locally for the resawing. I can get them made for $20 and have them sharpend for $5 at the same shop (Oregon carbide here in Portland.)

Overall it works pretty well but not so well that I don't want to build a bandmill.

I've had smaller bandsaws including a 14" delta with a riser block and they sucked compared to the Rikon 18" The Rikon 14" might get the job but I'd go bigger if you can.
 
Whoops, I just realized that this is an old post and you already have the 14" Rikon. Looks like a nice setup. Glad it's working. If you have trouble pushing the wood through and keeping it against the fence you might want to think about a sled.

Dalton
 
The 14" rikon does a great job resawing. Look what it can do when set up properly.This is some mahogany resawed with it.
 
I agree with Sawyer Rob that resawing is mostly about quality of the bandsaw setup, specifically the way the guides are set up properly. That and a super sharp blade that won't wander without so much tension that you are literally torquing your saw out of allignment (on most bandsaws you can actually do that). That said, I've found that no matter what blade was on it, and no matter how I tweaked and setup my 14" bandsaw, with a 110V 1 1/2 hp motor it just doesn't have the guts to do much over 6-8 inches without really straining and going very very slow, especially if everything else is not dead on perfect. My Laguna (Italian) 220V 2 1/2 hp bandsaw does have the guts to resaw 12 inches without taking forever, and without wandering if I put a sharp 1 inch blade on it and the guides are setup for zero slop. Even then though, as I said before on this forum, when I try and use it as a mini bandmill milling small logs, it has a hard time with wet heavy dense "logs" much over 9-10 inches. It just doesn't have the power that a bandsaw needs to slice up logs. Woodshop bandsaws are also just not built for that... they quickly clog up with wet sawdust, which also eventually coats the tires and sides of the blade, which is very hard to remove, especially when it dries hard as nails.
 
Woodshop bandsaws are also just not built for that... they quickly clog up with wet sawdust, which also eventually coats the tires and sides of the blade, which is very hard to remove, especially when it dries hard as nails.

Wiping diesel on the blade before starting, after every cut, and at the end reduces this problem with green wood.
 

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