Redmax G5000 First Impressions

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The chain tensioner should NOT be plastic. Both of mine are metal of some sort. And the G5000's that come through my shop have metal ones. Something you should check into. I kind of don't understand the too much plastic comment...but to each his own. Part of why the saw is so light is because it's plastic....look back at all the old Homelites that are literally all metal...make their clutch cover, recoil, top cover, gas tanks, and trigger assemblies plastic and they would weigh less. It's just an improvement. Doesn't necessarily mean it isn't a quality product. Only time will tell though.


A plastic clutch cover is not an improvement, but a plastic gas tank and rear handle is! :)
 
Don't worry over the plastic. I took in 2 5000s that had been run over by a tractor and C4 skidder. The plastic never broke, the mag case did. The 346 that was run over didn't fair as well.


Here are the 5000 weak points.
Chain catcher. When it breaks the lower av mount is loose.
Brake. At around 1200 tanks use it is worn enough that it will trip and engage easily. Brake replacement necessary.
Starter. Pawls need to be cleaned to ensure proper engagement.

Plus side.
One of the toughest 50 cc motors ever built.

You are the main source of the "good reputation" I posted about! :cheers:

I can always trust you, even though we don't always agree!
 
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I couldn't see how a plastic tensioner would work, good to hear it's steel.

I'm sure this saw will do you well, but if it doesn't, just take a look at the 346xp :cheers:
 
Haha I agree Sawtroll on the plastic clutch cover. I mean I have no problems using my old Homelites. I use my c-51 more than anything. Yes heavy...but ehh too much fun. But I'd much rather replace my 3800's 12 clutch cover than say...a 35$ clutch cover for my 281...just saying...
 
I've had a G5000 for several months now. I agree, I was disappointed in the plastic chainbrake cover. I bought this saw to replace my toasted pawn shop Husky 353. So far, I think the G5000 has more power, but I miss the heavier duty construction of the 353. I was really wanting a 346XP, but could not afford it. I still think the G5000 was the best new saw that I could find for $300. I guess time will tell if I am right...
 
I've had a G5000 for several months now. I agree, I was disappointed in the plastic chainbrake cover. I bought this saw to replace my toasted pawn shop Husky 353. So far, I think the G5000 has more power, but I miss the heavier duty construction of the 353. I was really wanting a 346XP, but could not afford it. I still think the G5000 was the best new saw that I could find for $300. I guess time will tell if I am right...
I've used mine for at least 8 hours so far and it looks like a keeper. Has plenty of power, starts right up every time, and is quite light compared to what I was used to. I was thinking someday I may want to buy a replacement cover assembly with all the stuff installed as a backup - but it costs almost $100 :jawdrop:. That plus the original $300 is getting it up close to the Husky 346xp price. So I think I won't do that and just replace individual parts when needed. The one thing I worry about, though, is long term parts availability.
 
I dunno but as a designeer I would guess that the bean counters told the engineering staff that enough is enough...use something you already have laying around...we can't get the money to support a new design...:censored:

That one wasn't "lying around", it was a fresh design.
 
Husky has been using the plastic clutch cover/chain brake/chain tensioner setup for quite some time. I have a 12+ year old Husky 36 that has had some VERY heavy use through it's life and it has held up very well. I wouldn't worry one bit about it.
 
Because its designed as a limbing saw?:confused:

Sort of - I believe it is to pull the centre of gravity towards the bar, as is the outboard clutch - nice for handling, but not for weight specs....:)

Btw, even the 339xp has a hefty piece of Mag as a clutch cover, and the "bottom" of the "clamshell" is a part of a hefty piece of Mag, at that side of the saw. Looks odd, but smart design, really!
 
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Sort of - I believe it is to pull the centre of gravity towards the bar, as is the outboard clutch - nice for handling, but not for weight specs....:)

Maybe it needs to be strong because it is always laying on the side cover.
 
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For what it is worth (not much) here are my thoughts on the "other brands". I have used almost every brand out there. I sell Efco. The cheaper saws are cheaper for a reason.

As most know from reading the 346 post, saws up here in Canada are expensive. I am a pro east coast logger. For me a 346 or a 260 is worth the money. Over the course of a year of every day cutting the Husky/Stihl brands are cheaper to run. Most of the cheaper brands require replacement parts at a more frequent rate. By the end of a year the cheaper brands cost more than the equivalent Husky/Stihl. If you are a homeowner then the cheaper brands make a great option. I place Dolmar up there with Husky/Stihl.

The Redmax 5000 is a great saw, but I wore out 2 brake sides in a year. $100 each. Never had a brake issue with Husky/Stihl/Dolmar.
 
The Redmax 5000 is a great saw, but I wore out 2 brake sides in a year. $100 each. Never had a brake issue with Husky/Stihl/Dolmar.

Stihl - Thanks for the feed back on the Redmax. I'm just a homeowner with some acreage, so maybe I won't wear them out so fast.

When you say you wore out the "brake side" at $100 a shot, are you referring to the entire chain cover assembly, P/N 848-c8d-5406, which includes the brake as well as the tensioner and guard? A company named Steven Willand Inc in NJ has the whole assembly listed at a price of $96.48. If you did replace the entire cover assembly, just wondering why you did rather than replacing the individual parts that were worn or broke?
 
The plastic cover was never an issue or the band, but all of the small parts wore to the point that the brake would always trip on. Became so bad that I had to tie the brake handle to the front handle or the brake would always be on. Not a safe practice.

I tried replacing individual parts with no success. That route is expensive so I replaced whole unit.

You probably will never run into this problem. My saw was run for 10 tanks per day, so 200 per month. Used the saw for more than a year and sold it to one of my men who ran it for 2 more years. Toughest motor I ever used in a 50 cc saw.
 
The plastic cover was never an issue or the band, but all of the small parts wore to the point that the brake would always trip on. Became so bad that I had to tie the brake handle to the front handle or the brake would always be on. Not a safe practice.

I tried replacing individual parts with no success. That route is expensive so I replaced whole unit.

You probably will never run into this problem. My saw was run for 10 tanks per day, so 200 per month. Used the saw for more than a year and sold it to one of my men who ran it for 2 more years. Toughest motor I ever used in a 50 cc saw.
OK, now I get it. That is interesting - what you describe about all the small parts is one of the things I was worried might happen when I saw how the cover assembly was made. And it also seemed that the plastic cover itself in which those small parts were mounted might wear to the point where the parts wouldn't stay in place correctly, possibly causing the kinds of problems you had.

I probably won't use more than 30-40 tanks per year, so maybe it will last me a lifetime, especially seeing as how I am no spring chicken. But I should probably consider buying a spare cover assembly at some point in case they stop carrying the parts.

On the other hand, my old Echo had no brake or brake handle, so it also occurred to me that I could just disable or even remove the brake if necessary and I would be no worse off than I was for so many years with the Echo.
 

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