Removing stuck MS460 clutch drum

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Took a long time to get the drum off, even with the help of my neighbor, a very qualified mechanic.

C Clamp would not stay on, so used vice grips and kept hitting the shaft with a hammer & punch. The bearing pack came out before the clutch cover, then the cover finally came off.

We found two pieces of metal had jammed things up, looked like they are from a key (short square pieces). COMMENTS WELCOME AS TO POSSIBLE SOURCE.

Currently re assembling the saw to see if it runs, then we will decide what we want to do with it.

I would have opted to do things differently, but this saw will be going to my neighbor, so it was his call. He does not want to put anything into it until he knows it runs.

Hopefully I have about all the screws & parts, the shop had started the disassemble, so I'm not sure. I know I am missing one of the top muffler bolts (the short ones, no big deal).

Should know later tonight or tomorrow if she runs.

Will keep you posted, I worked on it most of the afternoon today.
 
Vise grips and keep wiggling.
Mike, believe it or not, that's how I did it with a big MS880 suffering from the same problem less than two weeks ago. I also blasted it all over with Liquid Wrench and let is sit for 10 minutes. The inside of the clutch drum was packed with carbon. I scraped out a bunch.

I believe clutch drum is the correct IPL title of this part.
 
Glad you got it off Mike.
We found two pieces of metal had jammed things up, looked like they are from a key (short square pieces). COMMENTS WELCOME AS TO POSSIBLE SOURCE]
.
Possibly parts of the oil pump drive spring? (number 15 in the parts diagram above)
Mike check that clutch side main bearing very carefully. If that saw has a lot of miles I would replace the bearings anyways. If its your first project you might as well go all in. That DP and HD2 aint worth a damn if your bearings are shot.
 
She is ALIVE!!!!

And, # 24 (what I was referring to as the clutch cover).

There was no play in the bearings at all. Have not checked if the oiler is working, just wanted to see if she fired up before the neighborhood went to bed.

Glad I did not have to split the case. I was wondering how the bearings could be locked when the P&C looked perfectly good. She feels like she has good compression, and I replaced nothing but a missing spark plug.

Fired on the first pull, started on the second, idled & tacked up just fine, then I shut her down. I will put a B&C on her tomorrow and see if the oiler is working, but regardless, a running 460 for almost free, I'll take it.

I don't see anything in your schematic that would account for the two pieces of metal we found. They look like two pieces of a square key. 1/8" square & beat up, and the longer one is 1/4" long.
 
I have had #20 jam up the works as well on more than one saw. It could be a piece from the backside of #20 and hard to see because the rest of it is still there.
 

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