Replacement chain for 346XP...one that stays sharp longer in less than ideal conditions?

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rustyb

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I have the stock Canadian made H30 066G 325 chain on my 346. Cuts pretty good when it's freshly sharpened....but its performances seems to drop off quickly and dramatically.

That said, much of the wood I've been cutting has been laying down for some time (95% Quaken Aspen, 5% sage brush at the moment). I try not to cut wood that's laying directly on the ground but rather trees laying on top of other downed trees. Still, I do have to cut some that's been laying right on the ground.

I realize this is asking a lot of a chain...but, at the same time, I'm guessing there's a chain out there that will maintain better cutting performance in dirtier conditions for a lengthier time than what I'm using.

Suggestions?
 
I've had good luck with the Oregon micro chisel chain on my echo cs440 in dirty stuff. It cuts fast for non full chisel and stays sharp longer
 
H30 chain is the Husqarna version of Oregon 95VP chain. It is a semi-chisel, narrow kerf, low-kickback chain.

Carlton also makes .325, narrow kerf, semi-chisel chain that is not low-kickback. This may cut slightly faster, but will not stay sharp any longer. It is also sold as WoodlandPRO chain by Bailey's.

Oregon has just announced a new version of their chain ('95TXL'), that they are calling a 'professional chain'. It is available at Lowes's as 'M66' chain. Not sure where else to get it yet.

Described a little more here (especially on the second page):
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-oregon-chain-labeling.285694/

Might be worth a try. And please let us know if you notice a difference.

Philbert
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I should have noted: I don't care if it's low-kickback or not....and it doesn't bother me if the chain isn't the fastest cutting chain. I'm guessing that a lower performing chain, that maintains its sharpness, will cut better after a while than a higher performing chain that dulls quickly. Again. Just my guess.

Keep the replies coming! Thanks.
 
I run regular .325 chain on a narrow kerf bar and works fine. Might even stay sharp longer?
Why would it stay sharp longer?

Narrow kerf chain takes a smaller 'bite', so it requires less power, effectively making the saw perform like it has more power. Trade off is that the bar is also narrower, and more flexible, which some people don't like. Theoretically, narrow kerf chain is also weaker than full sized .325 chain, due to the thinner components. That should not be a practical issue, unless run on a much larger powerhead, which is also not recommended.

As SawTroll noted, running full size chain on a NK bar creates clearance problems with some saws under the covers. And, since the tie straps are not fully supported by the NK bar rails, I could see where it could lead to funky wear patterns on both the chain and bar. And, full sized chain probably has a performance cost. But, as you note, some people do run full-sized chain on NK bars.

Philbert
 
If you compare the standard Oregon semi-chisel .325 chain with the NK H30/VP95, you will see that the radius of curve on the cutter is identical. The primary difference is that standard .325 cutters are 1.25mm thick and the NK cutters are 1mm thick. It appears to me that the chrome is also the same thickness on both chains.

I found the VP95 chain is the most robust of the NK chains. The Carlton/Woodland Pro NK chain can be made to cut faster, but looses its edge faster.
 
That's why I would not expect the OP to find much difference from the H30 chain he is running now. But he could be a good party to test Oregon's claims about their new 'M'/95TXL chain with the 'improved cutting geometry'.

Philbert
 
It might also be possible to experiment with different sharpening angles to trade off between speed of cut and time between sharpening times. Maybe take a few chains, sharpen them at different angles (say: 25°, 30°, 35°; or use the 10° 'down angle' on some), and see if it makes a noticeable difference for the kind of cutting that you do.

Philbert
 
He is likely running on a narrow kerf (a.k.a. 'MicroLite', or 'Pixel') bar; if so, I recommend that he use narrow kerf chain.

Philbert

I'm still running the stock bar, if that means anything.

Also, I wanted to thank everyone for their replies. Was hoping a chain for my needs would be clear cut (no pun intended). Maybe a M66 at Lowes it is....being that I have a gift certificate there.
 
Get a Carlton K1C, Oregon 20, Oregon 33, Stihl 23Rm, Oregon 20BP, Oregon 20BPX, or Windsor 50J. I think you'll be happier if you get away from the narrow kerf in this situation.
 
Get a "ported" Dolmar 7900, 24" Reduced Weight bar, and have @mdavlee make you up a few loops of race chain.
The chain may dull more quickly, but you'll be cutting so damn fast that you'll be done cutting before the chain knows it's dull.

You're welcome.
 

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