Milling with a chain saw is the hardest work you can ask a saw to do. It is
under constant load and full throttle, most of the time. The components are
loaded and stressed at all times. The mix, oilier and carburetor adjustments
are critical if you are going to expect any longevity from your saw. The
maintenance of your saw is so much more important for a milling saw than for
the occasional wood cutter. A clean air filter, good spark plug, and clear
muffler screen are essential for top notch operation. The cooling fins on
the cylinder must be kept clear and clean. A milling saw should have ample
power for the required tasks. Are you going to mill large logs or small
ones? What type of wood is it you are milling? The hard and dense woods are
generally harder to cut than the soft woods. Walnut boroughs, which contain
some dirt or gravel, are the toughest milling of all. Only an old rail road
tie would be harder, and I don't think people mill those! Along with saw
maintenance you must also pay special attention to the bar and chain. The
chain should be the correct type for milling and must be kept sharp at all
times. The bar must be kept straight, true and square at all times.
With the foregoing in mind we should try to evaluate which saw will best fit
our needs. Saws are expensive to buy and maintain. It stings the pocketbook
to put out the kind of money necessary to buy a mill and milling saw. The
idea is to create the lumber or beams we need at the most economical price.
Heck, if money was not important we could just call the local lumber store
and order the best they have in the size we want. So then economy is
important. I think that this saving money thing can be taken too far though.
A little extra money spent at the onset can pay large dividends in the
future. Personally I would prefer to see a person have a saw that is over
four cubic inches in displacement for any kind of milling. As the size of
wood goes up, I feel the size of saw should also. The very biggest saws that
are made usually have additional features which are handy to have when
milling. The 3120 Husqvarna and 088 Stihl have an extra oiling feature and
the rugged bearings, extra cooling capacity, and brute power make them
excellent choices for milling. I feel these are the top of the line but at
$1200+ they are also expensive. Lets consider a few more saws that might get
the job done for milling. The trend for modern saws is for more speed from
the engine. This equates to faster cutting time and more horsepower. The
wood cutters and timbers fallers like this. It helps to get the job done
quickly. This is not necessarily a good thing for milling. Some speed is
good but when a saw is constantly buzzing along at 12,000 RPM things get
worn out or broken in a hurry. For this reason I think that a user must be
aware of the saw he is using and what its strong and weak points may be. The
favorite of most woods savvy guys today is the 066 Stihl. It is not too
heavy. It cuts fast and it has extra power when cutting larger trees. Do I
think it would make a good mill saw? Well yes and no. It will do a fine job
if everything is right. The operator will have to keep on top of things to
make sure he is not over-revving or over-stressing the saw when cutting. The
Husqvarna 394 might be a tad bit slower in the woods but would be a little
better for milling. Both saws are about the same displacement but the 394
might just be a little longer lasting in a milling operation. Keep this
illustration in mind when comparing saws. Used saws can do the job if you
are sure they are in tip top condition and you maintain them correctly. Some
of the older "big" saws made by Stihl, Husky, Homelite and Mcculloch are
good candidates for milling. If you can get a reconditioned saw, which has
had a new piston fitted, for a reasonable price, you could have the best
combination of value and reliability.
Mike
