Ryobi Chainsaw - Tough Cord Pull

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Let me go out on a limb and suggest the flywheel key is sheared or at least partially sheared. The piston is not indexed to the crank. Flame [emoji91] Away!


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Well I’m not going to put too much money into it.
The saw only has about 20 minutes of actual running time on it. Let’s see what the new starter pulley/cover works out....


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Well I’m not going to put too much money into it.
The saw only has about 20 minutes of actual running time on it. Let’s see what the new starter pulley/cover works out....


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Not to change the subject but while I'm waiting for my part to come in for the Ryobi chainsaw, I remember when I moved to Tennessee the first thing I did was to head to Home Depot
and purchase a Ryobi Chainsaw, Ryobi blower and Ryobi Weed Trimmer. I never had to do yard work in Florida. It was all done for you.
The Ryobi blower and Weed Trimmer didn't last the summer. The chainsaw I never really used that much until years later.
I returned both of them to Home Depot and got a refund. I then went over to the STIHL store here in Franklin TN and the experienced counter guy told me what to get. He said you wont regret
getting a STIHL. He was right. its been since 2012 and both the blower and trimmer are going strong-never a problem. Every now and the when I'm at HD and I see a guy looking at Ryobi products I say in a low voice "Don't do it...get a STIHL". I would then have a short conversation and give them my experiences with Ryobi.
I always wonder why would HD sell this crap to the public?....You know they get a ton of returns. Well, I learned my lesson...
 
Let me first say that I’m sorry to all that were trying to help me with my Ryobi chainsaw. I was at Home Depot and walked by the chainsaw display and gave them a pull. The Echo and Ryobi both pulled just like my Ryobi! No difference. I felt like an idiot. I realized that I only had experience with starting trimmers and blowers. No experience with starting chainsaws. Again, sorry. Today I learned that chainsaws need a strong tug to get them started.


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But you still need to replace that chewed-up starter pulley on yours. And it that saw has as little run-time on it as you say, then I would be concerned with trying to figure out WHY it got chewed up so fast.

Like I told you in a previous post, when you have that starter cover off, be sure to use a spray cleaner/lube to clean under both of those pawls on the flywheel to make sure they move freely and snap back to the at-rest position instantly. Then remember to start that first pull on the rope just slow enough to feel the resistance of the engine before you give it that big yank.
 
Will do that M. Just waiting for the new starter cover pulley to arrive. Your right though, why was that plastic gear so chewed up with such minimal usage.


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If I remember right those saws known to have issues with the recoil because of how the paws on the flywheel hit the top of the recoil gear. It wouldn't be long before that thing started to slip judging by the amount of wear.
 
Hello,
I experienced the same problems pulling my bigger saws, the CS 660, 670 and 8000 when i stored them cold. Nowadays when I think early enough about it, i let the saw warm up, store it a night or a few hours at a heated place. I think the cause of the problem is thickened oil that seals the piston very well and sticks a bit between piston and cylinder wall. All together results in heavy pulling. Warming up solved my problem.

Greetings from Holland.
Jos.
 
If the recoil of the rope is not COMPLETELY smooth all the way in, it can cause the problem with premature wear on the pulley teeth. I saw that once with a brand new OEM Husky pulley - for some reason, that pulley seemed to be just a little too tall on the center post, so when the retaining screw was snugged down, it put a bit of pressure on the pulley so it did not turn totally free. It would usually recoil pretty well until almost all the way in, then stop with the handle just a little loose. After a month or two I finally took it apart again and added a thin spacer in there to keep it from bottoming on the post - solved the recoil problem, but by then the damage to the pulley teeth was already done. I suspect the issue was that the slight extra drag on the pulley when the flywheel pawls were just about to slip over the top of the teeth near the end of the recoil was causing that pulley to stop with the pawls just barely hung up on the very top of the teeth, so the pull to start it made them jump and chip every time.

Another new pulley fit and worked perfectly - no more troubles with damaged teeth.
 
Got the new pulley cover and put it on. Got it started no problem. It pulls just like the models I tested at HD. I think I’m good to go. Thanks all....

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Keep in mind to not just yank the cord to start it.
Pull it slowly till you feel it engage, then give it a quick pull. Repeat till it starts. I suspect those plastic gears break like that from the pawls not being fully engaged on the gear as it is being pulled to quickly.
I used to do the same thing until I learned the correct way.
 
Appreciate the advice. I’m sure that will extend the life of that plastic gear..


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Just to be clear, you have a Stihl blower and trimmer but this is the Ryobi saw you hadn't used for quite a few years?

I have a 14" Ryobi and may keep one of these pulleys around. Walmart sells "2 packs" of these things.
 

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