Bobby Forrest
ArboristSite Lurker
My dad and brother was using my 385xp husky the other day and it locked down on them. Idk if they didn't use the correct oil mixture or had water in the gas.
Sad day!!
- Thread starter Bobby Forrest
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Wow that sucks, I've got loaner saws I loan them to my brother. Husqvarna saws are the ones that don't get loaned out. I've got 031av, 032av stihls, Poulan 3400 the old
Tried and true wood cutter. Well maybe you can get er goin
Tried and true wood cutter. Well maybe you can get er goin
Pull the jug and find out!
More than likely it was straight gassed
Or a bearing went
More than likely it was straight gassed
Or a bearing went
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
was likely a lean run at 50:1 over time that finished off the big end. pretty common with that model.
Bobby Forrest
ArboristSite Lurker
I know it wasn't straight gas. I will pull the plug tomorrow.
Bobby Forrest
ArboristSite Lurker
If it was 50:1 is it fixable? Or scrap metal?
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
it's fixable but finding a crank used is becoming one of the hardest modern saw parts to find i swear. if you stuck to it you could find one i'm sure or buy new. this is if it didn't send a needle up the top end.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
50:1 won't ruin a saw. People run that ratio for years. I don't because I don't feel it provides enough margin. Running lean at 50:1 is more likely to score a cylinder than running lean with a mix that has more oil. Some saws are more susceptible to bearing damage at 50:1 that wouldn't have occurred otherwise. When you pull the saw down, you will likely be able to diagnose the culprit. (different failure causes leave telltale signs). I recently pulled a cylinder off a saw that I am convinced fell victim to a dull chain. Evidence on the chain and bar indicated it wasn't a "one time" occurrence.
Bobby Forrest
ArboristSite Lurker
I will pull it apart sometime this week. What should I look for to know what happened. When do I decide it's not salvageable?
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
i don't think you have seen the 385/390 crank problems. i've seen many running rich on 50:1 that last a good while but at that point they are to rich to be happy with. running them at spec and 50:1 puts a hurt'n on the big end. i've had a 390 and a 385 do it on me. i'm not saying it is for sure that but going by my experiences with the 385/390 it is most likely.
its always salvageable
just a matter of how much you want to put into it, time and ambition and $$ ..its simple
sometimes its better to part the thing out, or just sell it as a parts saw....
of course, you can look at this as a learning experience and a great opportunity to get more familiar with taking apart saws, the 385 is a bit ambitious compared to say ...a 350 ... but they aren't THAT different
Bobby Forrest
ArboristSite Lurker
Well my theory is I would rather put 3/4 the cost of a new one in it and it be stronger than stock! I wanna try my hand at porting anyway
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Ummm......why don't you just ask them what mix ratio they used, and how old the fuel / oil mix was? 
Bobby Forrest
ArboristSite Lurker
They would say a bottle to a gallon, and month or two...
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
I always run my 385 with lots of oil due to the famous bottom end issues. Of course, that didn't prevent the front stud from falling into the oil tank last week
I've gotten a few that were less than 3 months old that lost them on 50:1 ultra with the unlimited coil on them.
Ironworker
Addicted to ArboristSite
So what you guys are saying is a 390/385 should at least be 40:1. That's good to know, I've got a Jred 2188, I don't exactly know what my ratio is but I always put in slightly less than a gallon to a 2.6 oz bottle of oil.
Most like 32 to 1
Yes they can use more oil for sure.
Did you get it tore down?
