Saw not cutting straight

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Brush Hog

ArboristSite Operative
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Is this due to my suckey sharpening skills or something with bar ? Don't remember pinching or twisting the bar. I really need to work on sharpening before my 192t needs to be done.
 
Is this due to my suckey sharpening skills or something with bar ? Don't remember pinching or twisting the bar. I really need to work on sharpening before my 192t needs to be done.

Sharpening is prolly the prob a bent bar can do it though!
A good look at the chain would tell drags filed too much one side,
one side dull etc.
 
Try a new chain, if you don't have at least one spare you need one anyway. If the problem is fixed you know where the issue was, if not the bar is suspect, could be bent or worn, but chances are it's just the chain. Though run poor chain on a bar for long enough and the bar will suffer too.
 
I think many people wait too long before sharpening a chain, go long on a dull chain and more needs to be filed away to get a decent edge, not to mention it is hard on the bar, saw, operator and is dangerous. When removing a lot of material at once it is easy to get the angles messed up and teeth filed back unevenly. Much beter just to take a stroke or two as required.

Even being careful in ideal conditions I can't see a sharpening lasting for more than a few hours of cutting before it realy should be touched up.
 
as TW said, pitch that old chain.

then draw file your bar flat on both sides. clamp bar in a sturdy vise while doing this.

then take a new chain, insert into slot on bar. feel how much side play your bar has.

end of bar next to clamp holes should have minimal wear. with new chain in place, use that spot as an example of how tight chain to bar tolerance should be.

our sponsor sells a bar closer. one of the best investments I've ever made. after draw filing top of bar and closing slot to fit with tool. your bar will feel like new.
 
Good point on looking after the bar 046.

Who knows you might be able to save the chain, the more a chain is filed back often the faster it can cut. If you want to bring a chain back to life provided the rakers are not all filed away, once you have the angles and file size all worked out, go arround the chain and measure the lenght of the teeth caliper works best, find the shortest one and mark it with a marker, sharpen that tooth and measure it again, then go around the chain and bring all teeth back to the same length, recheck the raker heght with a gauge even them up to the proper height for your chain and saw and you have a good chain again.
 
if you're ever up my way...........

i'll be glad to show you how to sharpen with a file.

we can even get the teeth back the same depth on my grinder.i'll show you how to do that too.you still have my #?
 
Avoid putting a beak or hook on the cutter when you sharpen. It comes from not filing against the top edge of the cutter. You want a little curve (look at a new chain) but not a pronounced hook with a beaky point.

If the chain is beaked it will cut curves and be really grabby, especially in hardwood.
 
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