Saw suggestions

[TrailBuilder]

I need some suggestions on saws.

I need a light-weight compact saw. I'm going to use it to build freeride mountain bike trails. There is a massive amount of woodwork required. I'm going to build large wood structures with rough-hewn dead-fall. I'm going to use it for tons of ripping, full-bar cuts, fine-cutting/fitting, and felling. I need it to be very durable and easy to handle. I'm going to have to carry it several miles into the woods on nasty terrain on my back while riding a bike 5-6 times a week. Like I said it will be used for ripping hundreds of planks by without a mill. I'd like to be able to get away with a 16" bar and something under about 50-55cc. The lighter and more compact the better though. I want it to be low maintenance. Fuel economy is important too as I also have to carry the gas on my back. So am I asking for the impossible?

I also need suggestions on very durable chains. I don't mind doing my own custom grinds so that doesn't matter but I would prefer a nice variety of grinds so I don't have to do that much to get them right.

 

[BobL]

Like I said it will be used for ripping hundreds of planks by without a mill.

If you are already carrying a smallish saw then I wouldn't discount a small mill quite so quickly. A mill can be very light and as simple as two 8" long bits of all-thread rod, some nuts and a few pieces of wood the length of your bar. It would be much better than frehand milling.

BTW I have cousins in Italy who build and restore mountain trekking huts across the Dolomite Alps. Even though they'd mountain climb to work everyday they did have one major advantage over what you are intending to do in delivery of materials - access to a helicopter

 

[TrailBuilder]

If you are already carrying a smallish saw then I wouldn't discount a small mill quite so quickly. A mill can be very light and as simple as two 8" long bits of all-thread rod, some nuts and a few pieces of wood the length of your bar. It would be much better than frehand milling.

BTW I have cousins in Italy who buid and restore mountain trekking huts across the Dolomite alps. Even though they mountain climb to work everyday they did have one major advantage over what you are intending to do in delivery of materials - access to a helicopter

I prefer to do without a mill. The rough texture and shape gives significantly more traction for bike tires. Not to mention pack space is at a major premium with a saw, gas, oil, spare chain, a couple hundred screws and lag bolts, hatchet, loppers, drill, spare battery, macleod, shovel, mattock, camera, jacket, food, water, bike tools, and other stuff for a day.

BTW: I know it's going to be inherently hard to handle ripping. What I meant by easy to handle was comfortable for long periods of time and fairly low vibration.

 

[BobL]

I prefer to do without a mill. The rough texture and shape gives significantly more traction for bike tires. Not to mention pack space is at a major premium with a saw, gas, oil, spare chain, a couple hundred screws and lag bolts, hatchet, loppers, drill, spare battery, macleod, shovel, mattock, camera, jacket, food, water, bike tools, and other stuff for a day.

BTW: I know it's going to be inherently hard to handle ripping. What I meant by easy to handle was comfortable for long periods of time and fairly low vibration.

Ripping with a saw alone for any length of time is generally more tiring than with a mill - i'd say you will get tired quicker and more, ripping sans mill, than you will carrying a couple of bolts and bits of wood (you could even leave the wood behind every time). Tired operator = increased injury risk, and it could be rather tricky trying to ride out of the bush with a major CS injury.

Don't forget your PPE and a first aid kit as it all sounds like potential high risk accident territory to me. It sounds like a great challenge so good luck.

 

[stonykill]

as far as under 50 cc saws go, I love my 346xp. Light, fast, great anti vibe, a perfect air filtering system, that never seems to get sawdust in it. Great saw. I used to have a stihl 026, now a ms260. I really liked that untill I got the 346xp. I don't mess with many other smaller saws seriously anyway, but these 2 are a good all around choice.

 

[buicken]

it may be eaisier , instead of free handing long milling cuts, to bring a small broad axe. make a bunch of cross cuts to the same depth, (about a foot apart depending on the wood). smack the pieces off with the axe. it gives a nice rough surface, and once you get used to doing it, is very easy.

 

[MJR]

Your gas and oil should be a little over 6lbs/gallon. Running a saw hard burns a lot of gas. Your fuel weight will be greater than the saw weight. Can you use a atv or horse? Good luck.

 

[TrailBuilder]

Ripping with a saw alone for any length of time is generally more tiring than with a mill - i'd say you will get tired quicker and more, ripping sans mill, than you will carrying a couple of bolts and bits of wood (you could even leave the wood behind every time). Tired operator = increased injury risk, and it could be rather tricky trying to ride out of the bush with a major CS injury.

Don't forget your PPE and a first aid kit as it all sounds like potential high risk accident territory to me. It sounds like a great challenge so good luck.

This isn't exactly mew territory for me. I just need a smaller saw as I'm going to a more compact pack setup. One of my sponsors is hooking me up with a new prototype pack and it's a terrific oppotunity for me to slim down my load. Like I said hand cuts have a rougher texture that gives significantly more traction. Traction is critical for this situation. Aesthetics are also important as these trails will be photographed and filmed by another party who happens to be paying me. I've spent many many days ripping without a mill with large saws. I also happen to be an Wilderness EMT-B. I admit it's kind of hairy but I have it fairly under control.

 

[TrailBuilder]

it may be eaisier , instead of free handing long milling cuts, to bring a small broad axe. make a bunch of cross cuts to the same depth, (about a foot apart depending on the wood). smack the pieces off with the axe. it gives a nice rough surface, and once you get used to doing it, is very easy.

I use wood-splitting wedges where possible but it's not practical in all situations as the woods I'm working with don't splint very well beyond a couple feet and some of the planks I need are 8-10' long. It's also a lot of weight to carry a mini sledge and wedges for a single task. I need tools that are more multi-purpose.

 

[TrailBuilder]

Your gas and oil should be a little over 6lbs/gallon. Running a saw hard burns a lot of gas. Your fuel weight will be greater than the saw weight. Can you use a atv or horse? Good luck.

Nope. First of all an ATV or horse wouldn't be able to get where I'm going. (Yeah I'm serious) Second I wouldn't dare bring an ATV or horse onto a bike trail. Third both would slow me down significantly. I'm descending down to my locations. I don't have any problem carrying a 50+lb pack. Like I said I'm actually downsizing my setup.

 

[TrailBuilder]

as far as under 50 cc saws go, I love my 346xp. Light, fast, great anti vibe, a perfect air filtering system, that never seems to get sawdust in it. Great saw. I used to have a stihl 026, now a ms260. I really liked that untill I got the 346xp. I don't mess with many other smaller saws seriously anyway, but these 2 are a good all around choice.

My main saw right now is a 575xp. I love it. It's been a consistent performer for me. I used a 350 for a while but it's kind of beat now. I went through a lot of sprockets and clutches on that thing but I still liked it. How is the 346xp durability-wise?

Would I get more life out of a Stihl?

 

[BobL]

Love to see the pics of what you build?

 

[MJR]

It is hard for me to understand your skill level. Put that much weight on my back, put me on a mountain bike, point me down hill, let the gas start sloshing around, and your cutting me out of a tree with the saw on my back. Please submit pictures once you start this project. Also, look at the MS 260 Pro. Best of luck.

 

[04ultra]

The PS-5100 Dolmar would also be a good choice..






.

 

[TrailBuilder]

I don't have any experience with Dolmar but it looks like the PS5100S might be the hot ticket. Has anyone used both it and an MS260 Pro or 346xp? Any other suggestions?

I'll be happy to post some pics. I'm not even beginning my next project for about another 5-6 weeks. After that I'll actually start my wood-work after about 3 weeks of trail-clearing. So stay tuned.

As far as ability level. On a bike I've been fortunate to ride with some of the most technically skilled riders on the planet. I've learned alot from them. I don't have the speed or style they do but I can handle most situations. I can handle a saw very well. I wouldn't call myself an expert by any means but I am a well-educated heavy user. Every saw I've ever owned has been a Husky because of availability. I do have experience using Stihl but not owning/maintaining. I don't have any experience with Dolmar but they look pretty sweet.

 

[aquan8tor]

This isn't exactly mew territory for me. I just need a smaller saw as I'm going to a more compact pack setup. One of my sponsors is hooking me up with a new prototype pack and it's a terrific oppotunity for me to slim down my load. Like I said hand cuts have a rougher texture that gives significantly more traction. Traction is critical for this situation. Aesthetics are also important as these trails will be photographed and filmed by another party who happens to be paying me. I've spent many many days ripping without a mill with large saws. I also happen to be an Wilderness EMT-B. I admit it's kind of hairy but I have it fairly under control.

As a wilderness EMT-B, you shouldn't be without ppe. At the very least, you should have goggles or a faceshield, earplugs, gloves, chaps, steeltoeboots/shoes--I know they're heavy, but walking out of the woods with 4 toes or half a foot is worse.

As far as the ripping is concerned with a small saw, regarless of the brand, you're going to need 3/8" low profile chain, or something like stihl's picco chain. The smaller the kerf, the easier its going to be to mill something with that small of a saw. I personally think that my 361 is quite light, but I'm used to handling the big 394, and even my 029S is heavier. Plus, the 361 is meant for commercial, long hours use, and is available with a toolless chain tensioner, which I think also comes off without need of a wrench, but I may be wrong here. Mine doesn't have the quick-tensioner. Its a great saw though, and would probably stand up better than a lot of other saws to what you're talking about doing with it. It isn't cheap; most dealers sell them for about $600 or a little lower, but you're buying a commercial saw. I think it weighs about 12 lbs without the bar&chain; probably 15 with bar & gas/oil. Just a guess there.