Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Oh heck no! Nor dose it fit the 170 in the photo.I just have that mocked up fir the photo as a joke. šŸ¤£šŸ˜‰ If that bar mounted to a 170 with a properly tensioned chain? I seriously doubt it could even spin it, but if it could? The head would struggle horribly and probably sound like a dying bull frog! šŸ¤£šŸ˜‰ 185 drive links.
Pic says 180 šŸ™„
 
Oh heck no! Nor dose it fit the 170 in the photo.I just have that mocked up fir the photo as a joke. šŸ¤£šŸ˜‰ If that bar mounted to a 170 with a properly tensioned chain? I seriously doubt it could even spin it, but if it could? The head would struggle horribly and probably sound like a dying bull frog! šŸ¤£šŸ˜‰ 185 .63g drive links. 3/8
So, youā€™re saying it could work. šŸ˜
 
Might take some time. The saw is like a built 266 on steroids. Dan told me I could run it to 18k but I think he was joking. He sent me a vid of him ripping a round, at that speed, lol
that was early 2000s so donā€™t think I still have that vid.
havenā€™t used it in a while as I havenā€™t had any trees to disassemble :(
Met Dan at a GTG a few years ago .He had one of his original saws there. I'm thinking he said that saw was running in the 18K range.
 
The bike frame makes a huge difference. When I first started riding with the group, I had an entry level aluminum frame, and I just could not keep up with the group. At 6'1" 185 lbs is not a lot, but it made me one of the heavier guys in the group.

When I got the Carbon Madone 5.2 all of a sudden, I could stay with these guys, especially going uphill. I had no idea how much power I was losing to frame flex. The better frames are also more aerodynamic and ride and handle better. Carbon frames smooth your ride. They layer the carbon to flex one way but not another.
The technology they use these days is amazing to build them .
 
Evening guys.

On the subject of rifles....
I own over a dozen Henry's, and other than really stiff triggers on a few of em they are flawless as to function....and all the 22's are also very accurate, for levers.
Not surprised that some people have had bad luck with them, that happens.....

I also own a Browning BL22, it's pretty, but the accuracy is utterly horrible.....I've tried pretty much all ammo in it (including Lapua, wolf, sk, to name a few) and never achieved anything close to even marginally acceptable accuracy.....

I tried a 10/22 one time cause I figured since everybody likes em so much they must be good, right?
I absolutely hate those things........Marlin 60's are WAY better rifles do far as I'm concerned.

My favorite 22 rifles are the CZ 452's......we have two of the "Grand Finale" last run ones...... sweet rifles!
Also really like my Henry frontier w/ 24" octagonal barrel.
Iā€™ve only had 1 10/22 I liked and it was one I built.

I actually have never shoot my BL22 for accuracy. It shoots minute of grouse head. If I want to shoot little bug eyed groups Iā€™ll dig out my Zastava M99
 
Curious before I start a new thread if anyone has any ideas what would cause my 346xp to not run in the cold.

Saw is one of the later ones with the primer bulb, but like the rest of my saws with that nonsense, I donā€™t use it.

It will fire right up and run great in the summer, no issues at all. As soon as the temps get down below freezing though it starts a bit harder, and will only run for about 20 seconds at high idle and then did. At idle it will run a bit longer but die as well. Right off the start cold I can get a couple good revs out of it, but then it will start to bog down and not want to rev.

Any ideas?
 
Curious before I start a new thread if anyone has any ideas what would cause my 346xp to not run in the cold.

Saw is one of the later ones with the primer bulb, but like the rest of my saws with that nonsense, I donā€™t use it.

It will fire right up and run great in the summer, no issues at all. As soon as the temps get down below freezing though it starts a bit harder, and will only run for about 20 seconds at high idle and then did. At idle it will run a bit longer but die as well. Right off the start cold I can get a couple good revs out of it, but then it will start to bog down and not want to rev.

Any ideas?

Does it still do that with the winter flap open?

Screenshot_20221208-102613_kindlephoto-1228418576.png
 
The bike frame makes a huge difference. When I first started riding with the group, I had an entry level aluminum frame, and I just could not keep up with the group. At 6'1" 185 lbs is not a lot, but it made me one of the heavier guys in the group.

When I got the Carbon Madone 5.2 all of a sudden, I could stay with these guys, especially going uphill. I had no idea how much power I was losing to frame flex. The better frames are also more aerodynamic and ride and handle better. Carbon frames smooth your ride. They layer the carbon to flex one way but not another.
If you ever get a chance have a ride of a titanium frame, probably only 1% slower than carbon but so much smoother. Probebly like the jump from aluminium to carbon in smoothness. I have the team additon Orca but rearly ride since i bought the Lynskey.
 
If you ever get a chance have a ride of a titanium frame, probably only 1% slower than carbon but so much smoother. Probebly like the jump from aluminium to carbon in smoothness. I have the team additon Orca but rearly ride since i bought the Lynskey.
My Fatsky
 

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It's a crazy world we live in, Nate. Why, even @chipper1 has a J O B now.
Yep, dang bidinflation.
My rig, and my rig lol.20221207_110011.jpg
I was thinking of you guys last night at one of my stops :laugh: .
20221207_202405.jpg

20 chains in a row? All needing the rakers dropped? All I can assume is either your tuning chains fir others as a business, or you go through a lot of loops yourself and let a pile build up. Then freshen them up all at once! I've never seen any one professional Cutter use a raker grinder in 25+years. Do you do 20 in a row on a regular basis?
Funny, the guys on here that want them are all pros ;).
Tree serviceā€¦mostly hit nails, etc, some rockedā€¦
retiredā€¦I do their maintenance for the enjoyment. So far have learned how to fix a bunch of different saws, blowers and pole saws that Iā€™d never worked on. Heā€™s given me a bunch of trashed saws that Iā€™ve rebuilt and either kept to add to my collection or sold. Boss asked if I did sharpening as he has a huge rack of dull chains. Ordered the Ore grinderā€¦will be paid off shortly, lol.

not regular basisā€¦when I have time Iā€™ll sharpen a dozen or so then once I get a big bunch, change to the raker stone and do them all together.
last batch I got back to him was 29.

oh, he also gave me 2 diamond wheels for this same grinder šŸ˜³.
so, I kinda owe himā€¦
What grinder is that, and Oregon.
A buddy of mine has a couple saws done by Dan :chainsaw:.
 
Curious before I start a new thread if anyone has any ideas what would cause my 346xp to not run in the cold.

Saw is one of the later ones with the primer bulb, but like the rest of my saws with that nonsense, I donā€™t use it.

It will fire right up and run great in the summer, no issues at all. As soon as the temps get down below freezing though it starts a bit harder, and will only run for about 20 seconds at high idle and then did. At idle it will run a bit longer but die as well. Right off the start cold I can get a couple good revs out of it, but then it will start to bog down and not want to rev.

Any ideas?
Cold dense air causing it to run lean?
 
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