Scrounging for Splitter parts!

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I got a 4 1/2" x 24" cylinder last week for $75. It is from a 28ton swisher. New..

Today I got 2 - 6"x8"x10' long #35 I beams for $25 ea. and a 7' long piece of 1/4" x 2"x3" angle iron for $15!

Where the hell did you find a deal like that? I can't even look at an I-beam for $25 around here!
 
Where the hell did you find a deal like that? I can't even look at an I-beam for $25 around here!

true. even the scrap yards won't sell them cheaply. i guess there's more money to be made selling scrap metal to the chinese.
 
Where the hell did you find a deal like that? I can't even look at an I-beam for $25 around here!

I found them on Craigslist!!! Cylinder and I beams! I would say if I had to purchase both of these new from steel mill I would be paying around $500 for both..

I think I'll be getting a 6.5hp honda knockoff from harbor freight. They're on sale right now for $99 and I just got a 20% off coupon. That gets it down to $80. Just need a valve and a pump. I keep watching craigs and ebay..
 
Which style of splitter are you considering to make this time.

It's up in the air right now. I've even thought about doing a vertical like my previous one but integrating it on my new 18' dovetail trailer. I'm not sure yet.

I hope the I beams are heavy enough. They are 8" x 5 1/4" x 21 lb/ft. Both are 10' long. I guess if I can't use them for splitters I will find something for them! I couldn't pass them up for $50!
 
IMO a horizontal splitter with a log lift is the way to go! Your back will thank you many times over. I've ran both and it gets old bending over, or working on your knees.

Since you still need the valve, get a duel lever valve and if necessary add the lift cylinder later.


Another advantage of a horizontal splitter is that the wood is pushed away from the splitter towards the end with the wedge.

Another thing that I believe would be helpful would be catch shelves (I know there is a better name for them...just can't think of it) just after the wedge so there is less bending over to resplit the larger pieces.
 
Ok. So I've been scrounging around for more parts etc. I found a nice axle and wheels for $40. The tires are pretty dry rotted and will need replaced, but for $40 I couldn't pass it up. I also got a Haldex 13.5 gpm pump off ebay for $115 new.

I need a Valve (2 spool), hydraulic tank, filter, hoses, and a smaller cylinder for the log lift.

OH. I'm going to build this very similar to the logprousa splitter! I think it's a great design.

So I was bored today and got some work done on it. Progress pic..

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachm...ning-equipment/206900d1321156087-imag0227-jpg
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View attachment 207247Got the pusher plate welded up tonight. My son says "IT"LL WORK DAD"!!!! We'll see I told him.... LOL
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Ok. So I've been scrounging around for more parts etc. I found a nice axle and wheels for $40. The tires are pretty dry rotted and will need replaced, but for $40 I couldn't pass it up. I also got a Haldex 13.5 gpm pump off ebay for $115 new.

I need a Valve (2 spool), hydraulic tank, filter, hoses, and a smaller cylinder for the log lift.

OH. I'm going to build this very similar to the logprousa splitter! I think it's a great design.

So I was bored today and got some work done on it. Progress pic..

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachm...ning-equipment/206900d1321156087-imag0227-jpg
View attachment 206900

206900d1321156087-imag0227-jpg
 
I got some stuff ordered from Northern today. I hope it comes in by next wed so I can work on the splitter over the holiday weekend! I'm sure it won't show though. The last time I ordered from them it took almost 2 weeks!

I mounted the engine tonight and then decided to make a log catch bar on the opperator side. I think it will help out a lot when the logs roll down the log lift and will probably save my legs from getting hit or a run away log landing on my feet!

I bought 2 cylinders from a guy on craigslist last night. One is 20" stroke with a good 1 1/4" shaft tie rod cylinder. I'll be using it for the log lift. Overkill I know! The other one is a 16" stroke with a 1" shaft. I was thinking about using it but I couldn't get it to actuate. I tore it apart tonight and the insides were rusted horibly. The shaft is pitted etc and the seals are bad. Don't think it's worth repairing. I can get the seals from work cheap :hmm3grin2orange: and make a new shaft, but I don't think its worth it. The cylinder bore is pathetic! Anyways. I only gave $60 for both cylinders.
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I don't get it? Why put the axle and wheels out at the wedge end, where the splits are being pushed to, and you'll need to retrieve them? Even with a log/work table you'll need to be working around that axle. And with the axle/wheels at the wedge end you'll have to lift the heaviest end of the splitter to move it around or hook it to a trailer hitch... the end with the engine, tank, cylinder, hoses, valves, etc.
 
I don't get it? Why put the axle and wheels out at the wedge end, where the splits are being pushed to, and you'll need to retrieve them? Even with a log/work table you'll need to be working around that axle. And with the axle/wheels at the wedge end you'll have to lift the heaviest end of the splitter to move it around or hook it to a trailer hitch... the end with the engine, tank, cylinder, hoses, valves, etc.

Well I don't get how most horizontal splitters have the hitch end where all the wood falls! Are they stacking it in the truck?

Anyways. Mine will have tables over the axle. I can back up the splitter to my 18' trailer and push the wood on it. Or back it up to a pile of wood and stack it. Not having to worry about hitting my chins on a hitch tongue. Or have to stack all the wood in order to move the splitter. I can pile a bunch of wood behind the splitter and leave to another location.
 
I guess my thoughts are why leave the splitter connected to the hitch during splitting? Put the axle somewhere close to the balance point, make the tongue weight (at the wedge) around 30-50 lbs so you can pick it up and roll it around with one hand. Mounting the axle under the middle-to-rear of the cylinder (well out of the way of the operator), and mounting the engine and tank on the rear(ish) side of the axle to create the desired balance/tongue weight. By using the axle as the mounting surface for engine and tank it reduces the amount of material needed and total weight of the machine. Use a single support leg under the wedge and a short tongue, maybe 10-inches long… nothing in the way as you work. Cut the beam off near flush with the wedge and cylinder to further reduce weight and length… You can still have your work tables, but I wouldn’t think they need that heavy beam and axle for support.

But hey… whatever floats your boat. I’m probably spoiled ‘cause my splitter weighs less than 200 lbs and my three-year-old can lift the beam and roll it around the shop. Personally, after using it vs. several other splitters over the years, I’d put a premium on reduced weight and increased mobility first… everything else would play second fiddle. I don't even pile my rounds, I just leave them lay where they fall and roll the splitter along (by hand... one hand) as I work... tossing the splits in the trailer as I work... that way I only have to handle the full rounds one single time. But, I do split at the cutting site, which is why a feller puts wheels and a trailer tongue on the splitter in the first place... correct?

Just my thoughts... nothing more.
 
I don't care what it weighs as I will move it with my truck. I'm looking to build something that makes sense to me and what works with what I do. And piling wood over a hitch don't work for me. Neither does having an axle in the middle. Axle in the middle means you need a jack under wedge end so it doesn't tip when you get wood on it.

It is what it is. I make stuff that will work for me and my application. I'm not looking to move a log splitter with one hand or have my 7 yr old son move it. I've got a truck to move it.
 
Interesting dilema

If I every built a splitter I would want the wood to flow towards an open pickup bed. But if the unit was connected to the truck and the splits stayed you could just throw the splits to the side. Too much work :jester: I see IA's reason as well. I'm with WS I would want the splitter to balance itself it makes it easier to move when storing/moving it in a shed or garage.

Brian
 
Yo Iowa that looks like a sweet setup your building. I once built one that i hook up to the tractor very similar to yours. One thing id add to what you're doing is

Under your splitting wedge beef up that I Beam top to bottom Mine is twisted from hard splitting wood. That wedge takes some serious force on the beam at one point with a poorly welded wedge it pulled it right off.

Can't wait to see your end product.
 
A local guy that builds splitters and processors near me uses the HF motors and says he has good luck with them.Plus his reasoning is if they get a few years out of the motor you are money ahead since you can buy the 11 HP for around $300
 
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