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xtremetrees

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This company should invent the flexible bar.

I just bought a 44 loaned to my bud its got 10 cuts on it and its cutting crooked.

Wt heck is wrong with these bars.

My only option is to go with a shorter bar and hope that helps.
Any suggestions on keeping the bars on sthils cutting straight.
 
I have never had a problem with there bars.

It could be the spelling, with too many letters to the left of the "i". Is it cutting to the left?:p


Sounds more like the chain to me, I never loan a saw, unless my dad need one.


Stihl
 
Do you think going with a shorter bar will help?
This thing hasnt even been sharpened yet.

Every sthil ive grabbed has cut crooked.
the only reason i bought it was for the 2 ring's on the piston (longevity) of it.

Should this go to the chainsaw thread I guess it should
 
Originally posted by xtremetrees
This company should invent the flexible bar.

I just bought a 44 loaned to my bud its got 10 cuts on it and its cutting crooked.

Wt heck is wrong with these bars.

My only option is to go with a shorter bar and hope that helps.
Any suggestions on keeping the bars on sthils cutting straight.

I almost think you are trying to get a silly response with this post.

First the bars dont cut; the chains do that. If you dull the cutters on one side of the chain it will cut crooked immediately and you cant blame that on the bar, whether Stihl, Oregon, Windsor or half a dozen others. If you sharpen incorrectly it will cut crooked without having to cut nails stones mud etc. I strongly suggest that it is not the fault of the bar, although there are a number of ways that bar issues can become a problem. Tell us about your sharpening.

Frank
 
only ten cuts...you should be able to remember them then. What did you cut? fell a tree, get it pinched in a big log and proceed to jerk on it til it let free? Flush a stump and not hold the saw straight?
Every stihl i've cut w/ cuts fine until someone or something screws it up. My response? Operator error!
 
Could it have hit dirt?


I just slapped a new 20" bar on the 044 yesterday, and it cut fine, until i hit the @#$%^&^%$ barbwire.

I run up to a 36" bar, and I have no problems with the bars cutting crooked, but if you let it hit dirt (it happens to us all) then it can cut crooked after that.
 
Oh, and sometimes you can give the head little torque in the cut, and it can make it cut a shallow curve, but that rarely needs to happen.
 
Hello ExtremeTrees, I cut a fair amount of firewood each year and occasionally mine will do that, also. Mostly, for me it has been because the cutting teeth are different lengths. When you file or grind them a few may be smaller than the others. This site says it all about the teeth:

http://www.madsens1.com/badbar.htm

Also, for your chainsaw enjoyment:

http://www.madsens1.com/sub4.htm

Dave
 
If you cut a but, all it takes is a little dirt in an inclusion and that will dull it enough to make the bar wander.

Or if you (or your buddy) were horsing the bar in the curf and caused the bar to rub one rail hard, you could have a burr allready.

Every sthil ive grabbed has cut crooked.

I gotta agree with Brian here, especially since his commentary was not all that harsh.

Most cutting problems are operator error, not a problem with the OEM.

And if those 10 cuts were in big logs...well. how many tanks of gas have you run? Many people work on a rule of touch the cutters every 2 tanks to manitain a sharp chain.

If you sharpen only when they are dull, you aer not operatin efficiently.
 
I've been sharpening saws for over 20 years and though far from the best... I put a nice edge on... I've rarely had problems with bars... as I don't do firewood, have a 12" chipper, and get a log loader for the big wood, so the saws don't get worked that hard...

I bought a 460 and a 440 in September to gear up for Isabel and put the saws throgh hard work, cutting stumps down before grinding... carbide tip chains through dirt and mud etc...

Well I had to replace one bar already... I think it's replacement is already shot and the other bar seems fairly warn... Not used to that kind of wear and tear from a Stihl product... So I too was wondering if they made a change in the bar quality or if I was just working them to death..
 
My guys will throw that one out from time to time, saws not cutting straight bars crooked, I dont even look up at them and tell them the chains dull and that they need to sharpen it. Chain gets sharpened and magically the saw is cutting proper again. Yeah, bub bent bar, sure...right.
 
The only 'bar not cutting level' problem I've ever had that WAS the bar's fault was a wire edge that needed filed out.

As with most people, I'll dress the bar with each new chain... or sooner.
 
Its not a bar is bent problem... its wear as the chain rubs... I don't dress the bar as MB does.. guess I'll have to start..
Do you use a flat file or a bench grinder... or that tool from Bailey's????
 
I use a flat file to dress my bars. I usually check it every time I change the chain. I have a bench mounted grinder and 4 chains for every size bar so I only file when I have to. I find it easier and less time consuming to have my employees change chains then to try and teach all of them to file. I go over my saws once a week and check for loose parts or broken/missing pieces. It's been my experience that every time a saw has cut a half moon it was do to the chain. My smallest bar is 10" and the largest is 56" and unless they receive an "employee modification" they cut straight as an arrow. Your friend that borrowed your saw owes you a sharpening or a chain. Don't loan chainsaws! I rent my father one from Home Depot. It comes with a new chain, eye, head and ear protection, a pair of chaps, and gasoline. I pay the $2.50 damage waiver and for <$30 I have no worries. A underqualified person can do hundreds of dollars damage to a saw in less than an hour. A friend of mine let someone borrow his 044 one weekend and the moron used it to cut a trench in his yard for a cable line. Ruined the bar, chain, sprocket, etc. Most people who really know how to use a chainsaw own one.

As always my $.02
 
You can dress it with a regular saw file, in a pinch. I try to use an old one. A flat file is best, but a file is a file.

Do ya'll call it a 'wire edge' also?
 

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