shtil

[Gypo Logger]

Some cutters view a chainsaw as though it were a cuttoff saw. In actuality, it is a precision cutting tool. We don't see butchers letting their knifes become dull and we don't see surgeons using scalpels as though it were a rocked out steak knife.
It is sacreligious to take a file or grinder to a bar, rather use a palm sander on a regular basis and it will last you a long time.
If a 1.3 mil bar cuts crooked it may be so worn that a 1.5 mil chain will fit, just as a 1.5 mil worn bar may take a 1.6 mil chain.
Learning to file and abhoring dirt and abrasive matter is the best. Even seasoned woodcutters can't figure this out, let alone flip and dress the bar, so they woodtick along instead of developing the required finesse, but some twig to it right away.
John

 

[OutOnaLimb]

Dude, dont freak out, I have had this problem before. but never on brand new bars. When a bar gets older and more worn on one side of the railings the chain gets thrown to the opposite side of the bar. That will cause the chain to cut more vigoriously on one side and more timidly on the other. Once the bar passes through a log at about the same height of the bar the teeth can not dig into the wood and the bar becomes "bound " in that curved cut. This happens to me often when I am cutting big logs and have an old worn out bar, but with a new bar and a new chain it should cut straight on the money. Even an incorectly sharpened chan should zip through the biggest of logs, provided the bar isnt worn out and pushing it into a hang up. Check and see it the railings on your bar are not worn more on one side more than they are on the other.


Kenn

 

[geofore]

Did you get that?

Step #1: So if you got that you go with Redbug's suggestion and read how it's done.
Step #2: go with Rocky's idea the chain is dull and sharpen it.
Step #3: go with Gypo's suggestion check the bar to see it matches the chain size.
You do it in that order and it should fix any problem you have with cutting curves or half moons. Then Don't lend your saw out to anyone again! Check the way the saw cuts after each step so if the problem comes up again you know what to look for. Don't push, yank or jerk your saw in the cut, let the chain do the cutting, stay out of the dirt and always remember DO NOT lend your saws out unless you like doing steps 1-3 every time you loan a saw out.

 

[TheSurgeon]

xander9727

What in the world are you saying in the last half of your paragraph. I don't have dyslexia but it might help with that post. <$30. saw we to take chain 044 crooked down .064 with the new today, right???

 

[Crofter]

Computer not Dyslexia

Originally posted by TheSurgeon
What in the world are you saying in the last half of your paragraph. I don't have dyslexia but it might help with that post. <$30. saw we to take chain 044 crooked down .064 with the new today, right???

Surgeon:

It seems to make perfect sense on my screen.

Frank

 

[a_lopa]

put a huski bar on

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

It's funny to see the frustration Xtrees is going through, only because everybody goes through a similar learning curve and frustration.
The saw has a cutting system, not just bar, chain, sprocket. There are many elements to each part, and they must all work together.
Crooked cutting is a hard one to figure out because it could be any number of things. For example, it could be the sprocket. Most guys wouldn't even consider that a worn sprocket could make the saw cut crooked, but it can.
Keep your chain sharp, flip your bar often, dress your rails, replace sprockets as recommended, keep proper chain tension, and you'll do fine.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Excellent post there, Mike!

That about sums it all up!

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

personaly im with the thread writer ..to a degree .........i realy do not think bars are made as well as they where ..they seem very easy to bend,,sort of softer steel or just thinner made...

 

[Crofter]

The laminated bars are more flexible than a one piece bar. There could be a big difference in temper of the body of the bar from one brand or batch to another of the solid bars. It would take someone with experience in metallurgy to assess the relative temper of different bars. Getting undocumented testimonials from casual users has too much room for error to judge where one might be superior to another. When it comes to bar dressing some are almost too hard to file and others soft as soap but this is maybe just at the surface of the rail and not reflective of the body of the bar. Maybe stump jumping Gypo can tell you which one is the toughest!

Frank

 

[Redbug]

Hello you guys...my second ever post...

One thing about chainsaw bars...there are 2 main types to get-depending on use. The lightest and most common has the sprocket on the end. The other is heavier and has no sprocket, just the groove for the chain to run in. If you are using your saw alot in dirty conditions, get the bar without the sprocket. The bar with the sprocket is designed for cleaner conditions. It does not take much dirt to eat up your sprocket and you will have to replace the sprocket. Your saw will cut with less effort using a bar with the sprocket since the friction is reduced on the nose. The solid bar without the sprocket needs more horsepower but will wear longer. Oil is critical.

 

[TheSurgeon]

Crofter

The message IS very scambled on my screen. I went to quote it and it came out right...

 

[TheSurgeon]

RJS

No time for shrooms...too busy up in pines! Me and my new 066 are chillin!!!!!!

 

[xtremetrees]

Husky does make stronger bars I think AUssie.

My friend has probably dulled my saw.
Could have bent it being the rookie he is that knows it all.
I called him todayand hes said " Man I really appreciate you letting me use your gear while your on this mission. Nobody but my mama would do that .

Oh yeah, I'll put the prefrred file system on it and she'll cut smooth I just wish Husky had 2 rings on thier pistons . ive blown up several Husky saws in the air and it sucks not to mention frustrating.

Sthil should browo Echos design for a bar. Every echo i killed was at the tip where the roller just failed and split the tip, this was of course after many many trees downed during a year or so. And this sthil is what 10 trees old and crooked Sthil bars suck(.)

I guess standard my new 44 came with a 28 inch bar. Ill go to a 20 and see if that helps. If not ill go to a 18 inch bar.Will shortening the bar to prevent crooked cutting increase the revs? Will this shorten its life span?
I'll have to go with a much shorter than 28 inch bar to have a reliable, not so finiquey tree killin machine in shtil i mean

 

[xtremetrees]

Whre do you live in florida rocky im flying just north of you soon, maybe i bring my bags of gear and see what you can do?
Me? I live no where oh and I work for nobody.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I still wanna drink some tea with ole' Brian.

 

[xtremetrees]

If I could get my hands on it. Shed cut straight

 

[Gypo Logger]

All the bars I have used were made in Canada by Oregon in Guelph Ontario, whether Stihl or Husky, however the longer Stihl bars are made in Germany, both seem very tough and I have no or little failure. The laminated Stihl bars with the non replaceable tip, but replaceable sprocket are very tough too. Most wear starts are the bottom of the tip and works back from there. Worn sprockets, loose and dull chain and lack of lube hurl the bar to an early demise. I have repeated this several times before but if you take a palm sander to both sides of the bar on a regular basis whether it needs it of not, you won't have bar problems if you look after the other stuff. Don't worrry that the sanding disc is clogged with paint, oil etc., it will still do the job, taking of the real or imagined high spots.
Also, Stihl bars can fit on the Huskies if you get the required adaptor for the bar slot (Walkers Saw Shop), but I have found that an 84 driver chain must be 85 to fit because the bar slot on the Stihls are shorter than Huskies. This is where the palm sander comes in, a Husky looks weird with Stihl painted on the bar.
Anywho, speaking of Stump Jump Gypo, here I is.
John
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?postid=155947

 

[xtremetrees]

Aussie, are you still hiring production climbers. Ive got a real old passport but its still good.

Dan, is Killmurry bidding against you? What a freight train he's running. 4 2004 28,000 GVW trucks 18 and 20 Morbarks. 78 foot bucket, and a 190 New Holland with trash claw. When I pushed his trained it didnt move unless it was 5-8 grand a day. Bored with small trees i pushed it for him about a year.

Right on John nice post and video to
yeah thats what im talking about.
Thanks ya helped alot but how about the Husky bar on the sthil saw?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi XT, I believe it can be done, but the bar stud collar must be ground off first. I haven't done it before but I saw it done on an 088 to take an 066 bar.
I am glad that JPS didn't move this from the CTC&C forum, as the posts are different if left here, as opposed to the viper pit chainsaw forum. LOL
Anywho, this is so TC165 ROTFLMFAO.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?threadid=14148