Silver maple decline/help please

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jobblygardner

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I'm just seeing if there is anything I can do to help an old silver maple out. The house was built in 1966, so it can’t be older than that. I've seen old photos. Some changes around it have happened gradually over the last five years, and I'm worried they might stress the big guy out. In 2008 my neighbor installed a fence next to the tree. I continued the fence in 2009, digging more holes for posts. In 2009 my neighbor also installed a sandstone patio next to the tree. In 2011 I made a bed around it. Didn't add that much dirt, as the yard slopes so the ground was naturally lower in front of it. Then in 2012 I built a shed on deck blocks (still needs doors) and a little paver patio next to it. I get that it's not ideal but I'm on a small city lot. If I stay here for life I'm sure I'll regret it, however that's an issue for another time. It's also next to another neighbor’s garage, but the garage was there before the tree so I gather it adapted to it.

Myself, the neighbor, and tree are all fighting for space on small city lots. I've never had a yard or trees before so I am ignorant. However I am now trying to be much more conscious of the tree and learn. I did notice some branch dieback. Not huge branches, but from what I understand decline in trees is gradual. If there is something I can do now I'd like to now.

It seems healthy to me. Canopy is thick, plenty of helicopters every spring and leaves in fall. I'm constantly pruning offshoots from the base to as far up as I can reach. Any help/opinions would be appreciated. Thank you for looking at the pictures, reading, and your time.
 
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That is interesting. I'm planning it's funeral and now I hear I need to slow it's growth... I was thinking of renting a core aerator and then perhaps applying some sort of fertilizer or sulfur from what I've been reading.
 
silver maple needs to be kept in check throughout their entire life. the consequences of not doing so is removal or failure. they grow multiple stems, grow very fast and the wood is not very strong. there is almost always decay where the stems join.
 
Thank you for the replies. I am going to rent a soil aerator in the fall when the soil is moister. I also bought some maple fertilizer that involves drilling down 6 inches to apply around the drip line. I was going to do that in the spring when it rains more. However with all the rain lately I can probably aerate and fertilize now.

I was also thinking of cutting down the trunk that extends over the shed. Any thoughts on cutting a major trunk off a sliver maple?? Thanks.
 
Thank you for the replies. I am going to rent a soil aerator in the fall when the soil is moister. I also bought some maple fertilizer that involves drilling down 6 inches to apply around the drip line. I was going to do that in the spring when it rains more. However with all the rain lately I can probably aerate and fertilize now.

I was also thinking of cutting down the trunk that extends over the shed. Any thoughts on cutting a major trunk off a sliver maple?? Thanks.


OK you come on here for advice, then proceed to ignore the free professional advice you sort to do your own thing :bang::bang::bang:
 
What did I ignore? I am skeptical of somebody trying to sell their own product and post a link to an ad. I'm really not into using chemicals. I'd rather just prune. They suggested to brace that trunk, I'm thinking cutting. What a tosser...
 
Thank you for the replies. I am going to rent a soil aerator in the fall when the soil is moister. I also bought some maple fertilizer that involves drilling down 6 inches to apply around the drip line. I was going to do that in the spring when it rains more. However with all the rain lately I can probably aerate and fertilize now.

I was also thinking of cutting down the trunk that extends over the shed. Any thoughts on cutting a major trunk off a sliver maple?? Thanks.

Save your money and labor regarding the fertilizing. The last thing that tree needs is fertilizer. Also, the method you described is very labor intensive and inefficient. Whoever sold you the "maple" fertilizer took your money. What is the formulation?
 
Thanks for the honest words Zale. I kind of gathered that also, but hey I've been taken for more! It was $13 bucks, and it keeps the Mrs happy. Don't get me wrong, I love my trees. However she picks up all the trees that blew over in front of Home Depot as we walk in.


From the package, the formulation is 11-22-19.

Total Nitrogen (N) 11% (4% Total N from polymer-coated urea)
Available Phosporic Acid (P2O5) 22%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 19%
Magnesium (Mg) 1%
Sulphur (S) 8.2%
Iron (Fe) (actual) 1%
 
What did I ignore? I am skeptical of somebody trying to sell their own product and post a link to an ad. I'm really not into using chemicals. I'd rather just prune. They suggested to brace that trunk, I'm thinking cutting. What a tosser...


READ post 3 5 9 and remember you sort help and it was given free of charge.
 
Thank you Captain obvious. With all the ads sprawled across this site nothing is free.

3 - skeptical of ad and don't want to use chemicals

5 - is the obvious. Of course you need to keep up after a tree. However this one was planted about 40 years before I moved into the house. Too bad I missed its formative years.

9 - I appreciated Zale's honest words and responded to his question.

I ignored nothing and now need to ignore you. What a wanker...
 
Thank you Captain obvious. With all the ads sprawled across this site nothing is free.

3 - skeptical of ad and don't want to use chemicals

5 - is the obvious. Of course you need to keep up after a tree. However this one was planted about 40 years before I moved into the house. Too bad I missed its formative years.

9 - I appreciated Zale's honest words and responded to his question.

I ignored nothing and now need to ignore you. What a wanker...

Information you have been given is free, what do you think fertilizer is, wait for it oh yer Chemical :bang::bang::bang:

As for calling me a tosser and a wanker, I had no idea you know me so well.
 
Thank you for the replies. I am going to rent a soil aerator in the fall when the soil is moister. I also bought some maple fertilizer that involves drilling down 6 inches to apply around the drip line. I was going to do that in the spring when it rains more. However with all the rain lately I can probably aerate and fertilize now.

I was also thinking of cutting down the trunk that extends over the shed. Any thoughts on cutting a major trunk off a sliver maple?? Thanks.


Tree looks fine and healthy from the pics. Which is a surprise due to crowding it with walls, fences, and buildings.

Usually you don't have to fertilize a maple tree. Don't waste your time.

If you want to care for it, hire someone reputable to thin it, clean the dead wood, and reduce back those sprawling leads.

Do not have it topped

Do not remove large trunks at the base of the tree. The large cuts "wounds" will not heal and will rot out the rest of the stump.


If you change your attitude a bit you might get a bit more helpful advice.


Good luck
 
Thank you for the advice old soul.

My attitude is always thankful and grateful, unless provoked by head bangers. Which I suppose explains a lot. Cheers mates!
 
After reviewing the pics of your maple, given the stem structure, proximity of buildings, fences, landscaping, and powerlines, I recommend pruning your maple at ground level. :yoyo:
 
After reviewing the pics of your maple, given the stem structure, proximity of buildings, fences, landscaping, and powerlines, I recommend pruning your maple at ground level. :yoyo:

HA! As long as you're using the chainsaw or forking over the $$$$ I'm game! Though I will miss the big guy's shade...

The power company has come out to prune once. Wonder if they'll decide to just take it down next time...
 
"Tree looks fine and healthy from the pics. Which is a surprise due to crowding it with walls, fences, and buildings.
Usually you don't have to fertilize a maple tree. Don't waste your time.
If you want to care for it, hire someone reputable to thin it, clean the dead wood, and reduce back those sprawling leads.
Do not have it topped
Do not remove large trunks at the base of the tree. The large cuts "wounds" will not heal and will rot out the rest of the stump."

:clap: Excellent advice. Best to ignore the politeness police and the advocates of Basil Kutz.
 

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