Cool , nice collection of fine saws . I currently have Husquarna 346 xp & woods ported 357 xp along with Dolmar 5105H & 7910 HD runin Saber @ 44:1 . Very similar to the Opti2 in performance , may have to order a bottle once my trials with Dominator & Interceptor on my rebuilt Homelite test saw is done . I never go with manufacturers hype but rather test in real world conditions , has never let me down in various engine applications over 50 yrs !
Thanks Kash , I read my chart here incorrectly lol , I read Champion RN 18/19 Hot & RN 52 / 53 Colder , old automotive conversion chart on the wall . I took out my current 2T plug conversion manual and your absolutely correct , unfortunately I have never bought Champion plugs , all my equipment has had OEM NGK , Denso or Bosch products . Anyhow thank you for the correction brother ! How's the weather (snow) in the North West ?
German plugs were , are & will remain the finest spark plugs in the world in real world applications , anyone who use Autolite , A.C Delco , Champion are ill informed . Also buying cheap offshore knock offs at Wally World or Home Depot etc are fools , sure the price is cheap , so is the product . I have repaired more trimmers , snowblower , chainsaws snowmobiles & cycles due to bad (defective) plugs in the last 10 yrs then bad fuel or poor maintenance . Simply because the operator had to save a few $$ on plugs !
Opti 2 can found relabeled under the following Oregon only one and US2 brand. a local farm store here in the states called TSC has pillow packs of US2 which is opti product for .50 cents per pillow pack on clearance during the winter months.
E3 sparkplugs are garbage compared to champion or autolite. I currently got autolite in everything i own and it does a fine job and i have not had any issues
I got a echo cs 306 and a stihl 024 avs for all my firewood duties i run supertech oil in them with 87 ethanol free at 32:1
In Racing applications Ben , 2 to 3 ranges hotter is often required , also the opposite depending on engine dynamics & current ambient temperatures . This is real world engine tuning criteria brother , nothing surprising or unusual . I think you should really stop assuming , its reflecting back upon you dude . Anyhow in 1975 at the Soo 1-500 the Race Started earlier than normal 9:00 am , due to lake effect snow forcasted. Ambient temp -30 f & sunny , by noon the temp had risen to 27 f & partly cloudy . By 2:00 pm it was 38 f & overcast . There were several race stoppages due to whiteouts requiring track clearing & watering due to the old 500 mile duration rather than the current 500 kilometers . Anyhow , everyone was using a caster blend oil & Sunoco -260 race fuel . Obviously spark plugs took a beating , we switched from 3 ranges hotter at the start to normal factory spec's plug @ noon to 3 heat ranges cooler @ 2:00 pm . Eventually even had to re- synchronize our 3 mikuni's in the 650 factory Fugi3 to compensate for the barometric pressure changes during this 8 hr race duration . Never had a carbon deposits or bridged plug throughout the entire race because of proper heat range plug application , even while using a caster based oil . Why because our Race Engineers cold read a spark plug & engine condition in a heartbeat & make critical decisions prior to any catastrophic failures . So in closing yes , in Racing or during Recreational riding on my 70's RD-350 twin or H1 500 or H2 750 triples , effective heat range selection prevents plug performance degradation due to fouling from excessive deposit formation . It's been this way forever , nothing new brother !
I'm not speculating. My race sled had a data logger with CHT, EGT, etc. I did alot of testing, monitoring of temps and visual appearance.
I've always used NGK exclusively bought from Napa and have never had an issue. I did use Champions for a time in Polaris Snomobiles, but always thought they were lower quality and less reliable.
Opti-2 is also available on Amazon.
It is. I buy it in a gallon container. Takes me a bit to use that much but it works for me.
I have a data logger on my Harley Dyna-Glide as I type this . We just did two pulls on my buddies Dyno to get some Real Time Peak Horsepower & Torgue reading comparisions after installing a new Andrews AV-13 Cam upgrade. Just a little more duration & lift over the oem cam . I purchased the cycle last Nov on my birthday , a week later I installed some Arlen Ness 2" straight shots & Predator Air extractor system . I replaced Screamin Eagle plugs for Bosch Iridium plugs & sold the after market Screamin Eagle Pipes that came on the bike for quick turn around on the new Cam . Initially I picked up 8% more peak horsepower & 10 % more net torgue . After the new Cam I improved to a 20 % improvement in Peak Horse power 30 % improvement in net torgue off idle to 5000 max rpm range . P.S. I picked up this 1998 EVO engined cycle (23,000 original mi.) for a Divorce forced sale of $4000 . I have had offers of $8000 for the bike prior to the add on's . I have never been a follower of "a penny wise & a dollar foolish" . I spend up for quality components , not cheap China Clones ! I may pay up to $8 - 13 for spark plugs however I know the origin of manufacturer & they perform well & last their intended life cycle . Any how yeah we raced in different generations . I only practiced on Steve Thorson & Brad Hulings Liquid Cooled RXL-650 Liberty Engine Sno-Pro sleds @ Peterbourgh Dayco Cup in Nov 1979 . Night and day performance curves difference , due to the tighter engine tolerances & thermally maintained internal engine temperatures over the previous Starfire Centurian 650 factory Mod , liquid cooled triple I ran . I think they only altered heat ranges on their Snow Cross sleds after 79 the ice ovals were so well dialed in with tunnel rad's & bulkhead back up heat exchangers . Factory fresh iron really shines on the big ice ovals . Anyhow I'am too long in the tooth to change time proven Methology that still works for me , nothing personal "different strokes for different folks baby " Cheers ! P.S. my new Polaris 850 Patriot Big-Bore Twin RMK has the same reaction to hotter plug testing as your former CR-500 , much larger squish area & much denser fuel charge accordingly , tends to create that sensitivity !
Prefer to shop local than buy off amazon plus there is a lot of mark up there and shipping cost.
All depends on how rich the fuel or oil ratio's are Ben. As I said before optimal engine performance can be recognized with proper heat range selection for the riding style , when the fuel to air & fuel to oil ratio's are reasonable to the application brother ! " Seen this & done that " if you know what I mean !
The same reason Nascar Crew Chiefs & Engine Chiefs spec different Engine oil viscocities & transmission & rear end gear lube viscocities during time trials & actually race conditions .To reduce parasitic drag & gain Peak horsepower & Net Torgue Values ! Engineers earn Mucho Dinaro's creating PERFORMANACE GAINS ! Which includes staying up at nite thinking this crap up brother !
Opti2 & Dominator or Interceptor & Saber & numerous other Premium oils Motul etc . are available at various Engine Performance Shops Nation wide . Actually spoke to my buddy with the Dyno Shop to order me some Opti2 , he's going to stock some since he ports saws as a hobby !
E3 worked fine in my lawn mower when they 1st came out , nothing special better or worse would never use them in any high performance usage though , heard some scary stuff from a few individuals that know their stuff in the automotive field , also the pricing is not competitive any longer I recently heard .
I have never had a defective or quality control reported NGK or BOSCH Spark plug in over 40 yrs , actually pretty good track record with oem Denso plugs also for some reason lol.
