So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

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bwalker
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Here are 3 of my saws recently operated on a tree job.
View attachment 955085

Does this look like "Compromised Lubrication" to anyone else?
Saw #1 MS 361 Bone Stock, ZERO modifications, about 5hrs (10-12 tanks)
View attachment 955087

Saw #2 MS 361 Modified, Ported, 460 carb, Muff Mod. About 50hrs. (tanks ?)
View attachment 955088

Saw #3 MS 660 Modified, Ported, 4yrs old about 250 hrs
View attachment 955089

So tell me again, how does E30 compromise lubrication?
Just another example of how bwalker is lying out his ASS!! Like a habitual liar, he just can't help himself.
It's funny how you call someone a liar when something doesn't fit your flawed and frankly moronic ideas.
Ethanols effects on breaking down lubrication are well documented. Lots of papers out there on the subject.
I supoose I will be called a liar for pointing out the energy density of Ethanol is less than gasoline as well?
That top piston doesn't look so great for such little time, neither does the middle one. The picture for the Chinese junk on the bottom is too poor to say.
 
jakethesnake

jakethesnake

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Not really.
It only proves that some oils run longer at 200:1. You can't extrapolate those results to normal ratios.
Protection against seizure is not a real issue with modern oils. Cleanliness of the ring grooves is much more important. Once ring mobility is lost wear increases, blow by increases and sooner rather than latter compression is lost or seizure occurs.
Not sure where you’re heading with this walker?
I’d agree there’s no reason to run 200:1. But the oils that lasted longer in my opinion impressed me.
What oil do you recommend?
 
cookies

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Here are 3 of my saws recently operated on a tree job.
View attachment 955085

Does this look like "Compromised Lubrication" to anyone else?
Saw #1 MS 361 Bone Stock, ZERO modifications, about 5hrs (10-12 tanks)
View attachment 955087

Saw #2 MS 361 Modified, Ported, 460 carb, Muff Mod. About 50hrs. (tanks ?)
View attachment 955088

Saw #3 MS 660 Modified, Ported, 4yrs old about 250 hrs
View attachment 955089

So tell me again, how does E30 compromise lubrication?
Just another example of how bwalker is lying out his ASS!! Like a habitual liar, he just can't help himself.
It looks like a time lapse of piston skirt damage, oil des not stop lean condition or debris wear. If your taking cylinders off to inspect after jobs you might try fully cleaning them and rinsing the crank case out before reinstalling to reduce the amount of spooge falling into the saw since it could be your source of skirt damage.
 
OM617YOTA

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Here are 3 of my saws recently operated on a tree job.
View attachment 955085

Does this look like "Compromised Lubrication" to anyone else?
Saw #1 MS 361 Bone Stock, ZERO modifications, about 5hrs (10-12 tanks)
View attachment 955087

Saw #2 MS 361 Modified, Ported, 460 carb, Muff Mod. About 50hrs. (tanks ?)
View attachment 955088

Saw #3 MS 660 Modified, Ported, 4yrs old about 250 hrs
View attachment 955089

So tell me again, how does E30 compromise lubrication?
Just another example of how bwalker is lying out his ASS!! Like a habitual liar, he just can't help himself.
That top piston looks terrible. Not trash, but seriously worn. Only 5 hours on it!?
 
bwalker
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I’m currently running raisman full synthetic. Had to open a saw up that was ran on it. 32:1 Pretty oil slick on everything. Not much carbon. I’d say I’m happy enough with that

Not sure where you’re heading with this walker?
I’d agree there’s no reason to run 200:1. But the oils that lasted longer in my opinion impressed me.
What oil do you recommend?
Any FD certified oil will work fine.
 
jakethesnake

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My dad had a 625II he bought new, Canadian tire oil, jonsered oil, Walmart oil and anything else he bought on sale. The piston still looks brand new after what 30 years.
I run quicksilver marine 2 stroke semi synthetic, jonsered and stihl oil, 40:1 never had any issues.
I ran boat oil and anything else I could find for years till I learned that was wrong.
The saw I ran it all through still has machine marks on the piston. It’s done a lot of work.

I don’t do that any more. The Schaefer’s people brag about I’d use. But only because tree monkey runs it and believes in it. I’ll just stick to air cooled fd unless a deal on the Schaefer’s popped into my lap.
 
bwalker
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Any FD certified oil will work fine.
I ran boat oil and anything else I could find for years till I learned that was wrong.
The saw I ran it all through still has machine marks on the piston. It’s done a lot of work.

I don’t do that any more. The Schaefer’s people brag about I’d use. But only because tree monkey runs it and believes in it. I’ll just stick to air cooled fd unless a deal on the Schaefer’s popped into my lap.
Tree Monkeys reputation is without warts. With that said I would not run a marine oil in a chainsaw. Too many good air cooled oils available.
 
bwalker
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I recommend Redline Racing Oil fully synthetic. I have tried Stihl HP Ultra and many others. There’s a noticeable power gain over many other 2-stroke oils and it results in a smoother running engine.
I ran redline two stroke racing oil back in the early 2000 in bikes and snowmobiles. That stuff has a nasty habit of corroding metal parts. Never will I use it again.
I've never noticed a noticed power gain between different oils.
 
jellyroll

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I ran boat oil and anything else I could find for years till I learned that was wrong.
The saw I ran it all through still has machine marks on the piston. It’s done a lot of work.

I don’t do that any more. The Schaefer’s people brag about I’d use. But only because tree monkey runs it and believes in it. I’ll just stick to air cooled fd unless a deal on the Schaefer’s popped into my lap.
That schaeffer's is $6 per quart here i just run what ever cheap air cooled oil walmart has.
 

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