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Dismiss if under 40 years of age...lol
Dismiss if under 40 years of age...lol
Specialist Tool’s Needed To Work On Chainsaw
- Thread starter Vintage Engine Repairs
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I got mine directly from stihl, cost 30 Aussi dollars. This is what you meant right?
You'll also need a bottle opener - either to celebrate a successful rebuild, or for when your frustration with the project hits the wall.
Or a BFH!!!
I got 2 on ebay at different times, both around 6 or 7 USD shipped. I think they were generic. No problems with them.
r1stgei
ArboristSite Operative
I know you have piston compression tool on your list... but I love this kit... also add on :
- feeler gauges
- small torque wrench
- spark tester
- long hex and toes bits
- mityvac vacuum AND pressure tester
- bench vice with magnetic soft jaws
Most important : use your Arboristsite resources!
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
These can be purchased at www.boltdepot.com
Along with a assortment of metric hardware.
A set of 3/8” dr metric and inch Allen long hex drivers,
Ah yes I have that kit, dubious about the piston stop though, heard many snap inside the cylinder?View attachment 762207
I know you have piston compression tool on your list... but I love this kit... also add on :
- feeler gauges
- small torque wrench
- spark tester
- long hex and toes bits
- mityvac vacuum AND pressure tester
- bench vice with magnetic soft jaws
Most important : use your Arboristsite resources!
r1stgei
ArboristSite Operative
I dunno.... I’ve rebuilt allot of saws and it’s never happened. I use the large white one in the kit ... I also have a metal piston stop too but don’t use it allot. The small black one is pretty much the same as the Stihl OEM one I have but not as good and I can see that one snapping. If you work it in there and position the piston correctly and snug it you should be okay... but like anything it could happen. I don’t really use the piston stop if I’m taking off a clutch unless I really need too. Allot of saws you can use an impact , and with a couple shots the clutch will come off nicely without using a piston stop ... for my 371 tho I needed to use a piston stop as it didn’t have the adapter on the clutch for an impact.
I use a knotted loop of about 3/8" soft nylon rope for a piston stop. It's of the length where I can usually insert the rope up to the knot on most mid-sized saws. Before insertion, make sure the crown of the piston has just passed the upper edge of the exhaust port. This keeps the rope from being caught in the exhaust port and wreaking havoc. Then you have a soft but unyielding surface against which to apply torque. I only use this for tightening. For loosening I leave the spark plug in and use the compression as a force opposing the impact wrench. Use only short bursts on the clutch. If you keep holding down the trigger, it will give, but may stretch the springs and throw clutch parts all over your shop.
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Nobody mentioned a good old manual pump oil can yet?
Not all lubricant is applied via an aerosol can for all you youngsters. The old oil cans are great for giving everything a coat of oil while you are building the internals up.
They are also not too bad for coating a new chain and filling the groves in new bars before their initial run, plus they are also good for adding a shot of mixed fuel directly into carburetors when you are trying to bypass some of the carbs basic functions to see if the saw will fire up.
Then, if you go back a bit when saws were still held together with fixings other than hex or torx drive- correct fitting screwdrivers!
After all that....... learn that brute force and ignorance are never the answer when working on saw powerheads, understand that dissimilar metals react with each other in a bad way and it takes time for penetrating oil to work its way in to where it needs to be!
Not all lubricant is applied via an aerosol can for all you youngsters. The old oil cans are great for giving everything a coat of oil while you are building the internals up.
They are also not too bad for coating a new chain and filling the groves in new bars before their initial run, plus they are also good for adding a shot of mixed fuel directly into carburetors when you are trying to bypass some of the carbs basic functions to see if the saw will fire up.
Then, if you go back a bit when saws were still held together with fixings other than hex or torx drive- correct fitting screwdrivers!
After all that....... learn that brute force and ignorance are never the answer when working on saw powerheads, understand that dissimilar metals react with each other in a bad way and it takes time for penetrating oil to work its way in to where it needs to be!
Such a great item Bob! I have always wondered, what darn oil in in them for chainsaw work?!? 2 stroke oil I’m guessing?!
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Pretty much start with, use what the saw with be lubricated with for the rest of its life internally.
In saying that, I have assembled saws with hydraulic oil as the build lubricant- working on the theory of what I had on hand at the time and any lubrication being better than none.
Best to use mixed fuel if you are shooting it into carbys though!
In saying that, I have assembled saws with hydraulic oil as the build lubricant- working on the theory of what I had on hand at the time and any lubrication being better than none.
Best to use mixed fuel if you are shooting it into carbys though!
Pretty much start with, use what the saw with be lubricated with for the rest of its life internally.
In saying that, I have assembled saws with hydraulic oil as the build lubricant- working on the theory of what I had on hand at the time and any lubrication being better than none.
Best to use mixed fuel if you are shooting it into carbys though!
Hahaha yes good point about the mix. I don’t know much, but do know that two stroke alone doesn’t ignite very well! Ha.
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Yep, but a teaspoon or so in the cylinder, then the plug back in and fire the saw up- it will instantly cure low compression........... for a short smokey period!
Do those oilers leak easily / known for leaking?Yep, but a teaspoon or so in the cylinder, then the plug back in and fire the saw up- it will instantly cure low compression........... for a short smokey period!
Not the ones I have. But they are > 40 years old, USA made, not Chi-Com.
It's good to have several so you can put different liquids in them, without having to dump out what they are already filled with.
I also have a few of the older style , that you just squeeze the bottom to dispense.
Brent Adams
ArboristSite Operative
Band aids?
You can take a coat hanger and make you a hook to get at the fuel line and filter, I have a Stihl one , but use the coat hanger when the Stihl one is hiding.
Duct tape
