Specialty Tools Needed - Stihl 028, 038, 070/090

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I use the 6" long T-27 power bits from McMaster Carr. They are better than Stihl. Probably not better than Wiha but they are half the cost. I get T-20 as well for blower and trimmer handles. I never use it for this but on Stihl saws the screw that releases the top of the handle to get at the trigger and lockout lever is a T-20.

Here is the Wiha chainsaw toolkit sold by Baileys. Just over $50 before shipping. It does not include the power bits though. Amazon also has it sold through a vendor for a bit less.

http://www.baileysonline.com/Tools-...Torx/Complete-Set-of-Wiha-Chain-Saw-Tools.axd

I personally prefer the Wera hex drivers. They are designed different than most and I have found that using them have allowed me to actually remove many stubborn hex headed fasteners rather than strip them out.

My favorite hand tools for 2 stroke work are these. This is really just a slightly expanded version of the Chain Saw Tool set linked above.
Wiha T Handle T-27
Wera Kraftform T-27
Wiha 8mm T-handle nutdriver
Wera 8mm Kraftform nutdriver
Generic Hemostats ( a few of them)
Wiha NON-BALL END hex drivers in 4, 5mm.
Wera NON-BALL END Kraftform hex drivers in 3, 4, 5mm.
 
At 6'5" and 230 lbs, I can be a bit forceful at times, too!

I have a MIG as well, but find Kroil and some redneck ingenuity usually does the trick.
If anyone thinks chainsaws are tough to work on they need to get into marine work, salt water and metals really don`t like each other especially dissimilar metals in contact with each other. Every machine,engine,driveline should have all fasteners coated with a anti seize product from the factory.
 
Do I need the T-handles, too? It only makes sense if space is tight and I won't be able to use a bit because of the socket end.

I found the t handle allows you to feel the torque better than when it's attached to another handle.

If you are just working on just stihls the wiha chainsaw kit does not actually translate to useful. It is a kit of some very fine tools. I showed them to a Stihl tech before I bought and he showed me two tools out of the.kit that would be useful. But if you want useful tools in general everyone of them are, just not in service of Stihl.

I read that you were tool savy but looking for Stihl tools specifically. I would bet wiha makes Stihl tools tools too. They are quailty and that seemed to be a concern. Trboxman shared a tip with me I will pass on to you. Those pesky decomp plugs can be hard to get out, handle, etc. He showed an inexpensive tool made by archer that is thinwalled. It is on eBay branded archer.

One tip don't wait tools are not something a dealer stocks. I have had to wait 8 weeks for an item so plan ahead. Some of them on eBay are way overpriced

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381693045143?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Thanks, I've added these to my shopping list.

One question - I have a complete set of high-quality torx bits for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets. Do I need the T-handles, too? It only makes sense if space is tight and I won't be able to use a bit because of the socket end.

Nah, you don't need T-handles, but I find that I'm faster with them than I am with ratchets and bits...I have both.
 
Oh, and Bedford is right in that the two most useful tools in that kit for working on a Sithl are the T27 and the 8mm nut driver. Another fellow mentioned hemostats and they are also essential tools IMO, along with a #2 phillips, a decent med sized flathead and a smaller flathead for adjusting the carb.
 
I was visiting with my locals stihl tech and he had a phillips screw driver that must have been @ least 18" or longer maybe longer. Longggggg. Maybe 24"

I picked it up and he said a must have for breaking carb cover plates loose. Stihl does not make that. But it sure looked helpful and keeps screws from being buggered. I would call that a special tool
 
I was visiting with my locals stihl tech and he had a phillips screw driver that must have been @ least 18" or longer maybe longer. Longggggg. Maybe 24"

I picked it up and he said a must have for breaking carb cover plates loose. Stihl does not make that. But it sure looked helpful and keeps screws from being buggered. I would call that a special tool
What? Does he work on carbs while still on the saw?
 
On Stihl saws the OEM flywheel pullers are the best, two different sizes between the smaller saws from the smallest like the 024 up to the 066 and MS equivalents, the larger one fro the 084-088 on up saws. A T37 Torx in both bits and T handle are a necessity for the more modern saws while the older Stihl saws used slot screws. The case splitters are not a one fits all tool but can often be bent/modified to make do to clear crank diameter and bearing to crank throw differences. A good tach will not be cheap but cheap ones do work somewhat reliably, many models have been tried and some work better than others for extended use by different members reporting in on them. A search will bring up many threads where they have been discussed and as for a ring compressor and flexible strip of material from thin aluminum or plastic can be cut and fashioned into a useful compressor, the factory made ones work great, I have several sets and also have a few I made myself, all get the job done.
I use a puller for the big and older Stihl saws but with the "homeowner" saws all you need is a hammer to remove the flywheel.
 
I have broken the Stihl Torx bits off but have yet to break my Whia T handled bits yet, I have big hands and at times a bit ham fisted. The screws/bolts either come out or the tool fails, then the mig welder comes into play.
I use the torx bits with a ratchet to remove the bottom bolts from the 029 Stihls since they seem to use a thread sealer on them, I bought a handful of the bits so if they break I just replace them. Too bad I can't use them on the cylinders of the pro saws, they won't fit in the holes so I use a scrench that i got with my pole saw for them, has a torx on the end of it.
 
If anyone thinks chainsaws are tough to work on they need to get into marine work, salt water and metals really don`t like each other especially dissimilar metals in contact with each other. Every machine,engine,driveline should have all fasteners coated with a anti seize product from the factory.

Sore subject. Many years ago I owned a charter fishing operation out of Grand Isle, LA. Had a leak during the offseason that eventually overwhelmed the bilge pumps. Engines (8-71's) were fine, but starters, alternators, and generator spent a few hours in saltwater. Ruined. Expensive.
 
I found the t handle allows you to feel the torque better than when it's attached to another handle.

If you are just working on just stihls the wiha chainsaw kit does not actually translate to useful. It is a kit of some very fine tools. I showed them to a Stihl tech before I bought and he showed me two tools out of the.kit that would be useful. But if you want useful tools in general everyone of them are, just not in service of Stihl.

I read that you were tool savy but looking for Stihl tools specifically. I would bet wiha makes Stihl tools tools too. They are quailty and that seemed to be a concern. Trboxman shared a tip with me I will pass on to you. Those pesky decomp plugs can be hard to get out, handle, etc. He showed an inexpensive tool made by archer that is thinwalled. It is on eBay branded archer.

One tip don't wait tools are not something a dealer stocks. I have had to wait 8 weeks for an item so plan ahead. Some of them on eBay are way overpriced

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381693045143?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Got the thin wall tool from Archer. Thanks. That beats grinding down an old socket.
 
Oh, and Bedford is right in that the two most useful tools in that kit for working on a Sithl are the T27 and the 8mm nut driver. Another fellow mentioned hemostats and they are also essential tools IMO, along with a #2 phillips, a decent med sized flathead and a smaller flathead for adjusting the carb.

Yep. Just ordered some hemostats from Amazon.

I have a drawer full of screwdrivers, including a complete set of Snap On and a Weha or Wera ratcheting screwdriver and bits.
 
have you asked your dealer. they will be cheaper there. i paid 8$ for the brake tool at my dealer. well maybe not you are in europe. there is a place in england that ships there. cant recall. L&S maybe

i just recalled you can get one of the stops here in the for sale section at a good price. just one size.
 
have you asked your dealer. they will be cheaper there. i paid 8$ for the brake tool at my dealer. well maybe not you are in europe. there is a place in england that ships there. cant recall. L&S maybe

i just recalled you can get one of the stops here in the for sale section at a good price. just one size.

I'll check out the sale section.

Being in Europe isn't all that bad. My 038 Magnum came from the UK on eBay. My 070 is coming from Germany on eBay. Lots of really nice vintage Stihls on eBay.de (Germany), but very few of the larger vintage saws (084/088, 070/090, etc).
 
I like strong women and not sure there is any better place to find one. :) so no you are not in a bad place just different. In my area stihl stores are very often found in Ace hardware stores. Something tells me you have different stores.

I just stopped and asked Google and I can't read anything but English but Yelp had a listing for one. So I guess companies are more global than I thought
 
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That's the 029 ring compressor. That made that to reduce the suicide rate among techs on 029
 

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