Splitter problems

[Vern141]

Hey guys, having an issue with my Huskee 22 ton. The splitter runs and splits great... For about 5 minutes, then stalls the engine. Sometimes if I hear the engine starting to bog, I back off on the ram, and the engine recovers. When it stalls, I wait like 3 minutes, and everything is all good again... For 5 minutes. Does this sound like a pump issue? The splitter is about 8 years old. I have replaced the coupling in the past year, but that's it. It's been dependable for 6 cords a year. Also , I sometimes notice the 3/4 oil line that feeds the pump( low side) "sucking" down. The hydraulic oil level is correct. Thanks!

 

[triptester]

If the suction line is collapsing the pump will not get fluid to produce flow or/and pressure. Sounds like blockage of the hydraulic tank suction outlet , clogged tank vent ,or defective suction hose.

 

[deadtrees]

I had something similar with my snowblower. A baffle inside the muffler had rusted off and become loose and after a few minutes would work its way in front of the outlet and the engine would die. The baffle would then fall away from the outlet and I could restart it. It would then run for 5 minutes until it blocked the outlet again.

 

[NSMaple1]

From the description it could also just be dirt in the carb.

 

[J.W Younger]

Hey guys, having an issue with my Huskee 22 ton. The splitter runs and splits great... For about 5 minutes, then stalls the engine. Sometimes if I hear the engine starting to bog, I back off on the ram, and the engine recovers. When it stalls, I wait like 3 minutes, and everything is all good again... For 5 minutes. Does this sound like a pump issue? The splitter is about 8 years old. I have replaced the coupling in the past year, but that's it. It's been dependable for 6 cords a year. Also , I sometimes notice the 3/4 oil line that feeds the pump( low side) "sucking" down. The hydraulic oil level is correct. Thanks!

Mine is a couple of years older and may be different but it has three hoses, a short suction hose from the screw on filter to the pump, pressure hose from the pump to the valve, and a return hose from the valve to the tank.
If the suction hose is collapsing the first thing I'd try is replacing the filter.
Mine sometimes almost stalls before kicking into the second stage but it's more apt to do this when cold than after running for a while.

 

[NSMaple1]

Wouldn't the screw on filter be on the return line?

 

[J.W Younger]

Wouldn't the screw on filter be on the return line?

I guess it could be but its not on mine.

 

[Vern141]

Mine is a couple of years older and may be different but it has three hoses, a short suction hose from the screw on filter to the pump, pressure hose from the pump to the valve, and a return hose from the valve to the tank.
If the suction hose is collapsing the first thing I'd try is replacing the filter.
Mine sometimes almost stalls before kicking into the second stage but it's more apt to do this when cold than after running for a while.

Thank you all for replies: hey J.W. ,you have the same setup as me. The filter is new; what would be causing that excess suction on the low end( the short 3/4 line)? Those low pressure lines are flimsy anyway, so I hesitate replacing it with a new flimsy one! I'm not a hydraulics guy, but is there a valve that controls the force that the engine feels , relative to the pump? A check valve, so to speak? It seems that the engine is running into a wall, like attempting to compress a liquid and losing. Does that sound whacky? Hey Triptester, feel free to chime in on this, as I've read some of your posts, and know you're familiar with these components. If I pop that pump out and spin it by hand, will I learn something? Thanks!

 

[Wood Doctor]

This may not apply, but I noticed some vibration on my splitter's engine the other day that was making it run rough after it warmed up. Turns out three of the mounting bolts had come loose. I tightened them all down and now it runs again like a songbird. The loosening up had taken place slowly over a 2-year time period. I've been told this can cause problems with the in-line pump coupling as well. So, it's always wide to check those mounts once in awhile.

 

[J.W Younger]

Thank you all for replies: hey J.W. ,you have the same setup as me. The filter is new; what would be causing that excess suction on the low end( the short 3/4 line)? Those low pressure lines are flimsy anyway, so I hesitate replacing it with a new flimsy one! I'm not a hydraulics guy, but is there a valve that controls the force that the engine feels , relative to the pump? A check valve, so to speak? It seems that the engine is running into a wall, like attempting to compress a liquid and losing. Does that sound whacky? Hey Triptester, feel free to chime in on this, as I've read some of your posts, and know you're familiar with these components. If I pop that pump out and spin it by hand, will I learn something? Thanks!

I guess I'd just never noticed it before but the pump feed on mine is above tank level. The pump should be gravity fed.
I'll try and remember to watch the hose on mine to see if it does it too.
I don't see the suction hose collapsing could stall the engine though. The pump can't compress or make a lot of flow without a fluid that gets there without air.
My splitter is running crappy too, had to take the carb bowl off and dump it before it even started this fall. The carb I suspect if fulla crap.

 

[triptester]

Try running the engine at full throttle for 5 or 6 minutes without operating the control valve. If the engine starts to stall or slows the problem could be in the fuel supply. Dirty carb or clogged fuel tank vent.
Diagnosing a problem 800 miles away without actually hearing and seeing things as they happen is often very difficult.
The pumps used on a splitter usually either work or fail completely. Blockage in the hydraulic lines before or after the pump is the only thing that would cause it to operate intermittently.

 

[NSMaple1]

Try running the engine at full throttle for 5 or 6 minutes without operating the control valve. If the engine starts to stall or slows the problem could be in the fuel supply. Dirty carb or clogged fuel tank vent.

That's what the description sounded like to me - dirty carb. But my splitter engine (Honda GC160) picks up some dirt, it can pass that full throttle test - but if I cut the throttle then hit it again, it will die. Teeny tiny specs of dirt - pretty aggravating.

 

[J.W Younger]

Yeah Vern, if yours has the Briggs like mine, you can over ride the governor spring and rev it higher by sticking one finger up in that opening above the primer bulb. Maybe it will help move some dirt on thru if that's what's causing your problem. I had to do that a couple of times before mine would split without stalling but the carb still needs to come off and be cleaned, it just isn't running like it should... I don't want to do it but don't wanna swing a maul either...even more.

 

[rarefish383]

My 22 ton Huskee just cut off, like turning the key off. Waited a few minutes and it started back up, ran a couple minutes cut off. Took it to my buddy's small engine shop. He said it was common for the two head bolts closest to the exhaust to get loose. He said being close to the exhaust they heated and cooled at a different rate than the rest of the head. Sure enough the bolts were loose. He figured it blew the head gasket. While putting the new head gasket on he noticed something stuck in the intake valve. Briggs uses a one size fits all plastic intake manifold. The manifold fits the bigger engines strait up. As the engines get smaller, they take a plastic insert to reduce the orifice and match the block. The little plastic insert on mine cracked and a piece bounced around until it wedged in the valve. He replaced the insert, cleaned it out good, put on new head gasket, and it purrs like a kitten again, Joe.

 

[hunter72]

NSMaple1 could be correct. I have seen moisture in gas do this . The moisture is floating around in bottom of fuel tank . The engine does not develop enough suction to draw it thru, thus fuel starvation. It a cheep fix drain fuel dry fuel tank completely and refill with fresh fuel. Its worth a try.

 

[GVS]

NSMaple1 could be correct. I have seen moisture in gas do this . The moisture is floating around in bottom of fuel tank . The engine does not develop enough suction to draw it thru, thus fuel starvation. It a cheep fix drain fuel dry fuel tank completely and refill with fresh fuel. Its worth a try.

A couple Ozs of isoprople alcohol will eliminate a water problem.

 

[Pglizerd]

I guess it could be but its not on mine.

Is it in tank ?