splitter question

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nosoot

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I "rehabbed" a custom made splitter that I bought about 20 years ago. Replaced a Honda 5.5 with a Honda 8hp. Replaced the valve -Viking_ and the pump -16gpm Haldex. Installed a pressure gauge and suction line filter that were not on the original splitter. It seems to be working very well -pressure gauge barely even moves on most splits. I have had a couple of pieces though -hard maple with a knot -that would not split. the pressure went to about 2000psi and that was it. Had to reposition log either opposite end or more toward the side for first split and then it was fine. Do I need to adjust something on the pump or is that really all it has? Noticed a slight high pitched hydraulic noise when it hits the 2000 psi no split condition. I thought these 2 stage pumps were supposed to kick down and muscle through anything. Any thoughts?
 
How do I determine the tonnage of this splitter. 8HP engine /16 GPM pump. Pressure gauge when maxed out reads 2000 psi . I don't have the exact measurement of the cylinder.
 
Relief Valve

"Noticed a slight high pitched hydraulic noise when it hits the 2000 psi no split condition."

The relief valve is what you are hearing. You maybe able to adjust this to get a little more power. Check your specs for valve, lines, and pump.

I had to lower the relief pressure on mine because I would stall the 5 hp honda.
 
so if the diameter is lets say 4 inch then what?

4" dia. cylinder
PI * R * R =
3.1416 * 2 * 2 = 12.56 sq. in.
12.5664 * 2000 = 25133 lbs. push
The pump is capable of about 3000 lbs. Check valve, hoses and cylinder for ratings. Most splitters have a relief setting screw in the control valve. Mine is set at about 2200.
 
if in fact the cylinder is only a 2 -1/2 inch and I see 2000 psi on the inlet to the ram then I am only getting about 5 tons??? Is it that simple then to leave the 8hp engine and 16gpm pump and up the ram to a 4 to 5 inch and dramatically increase the tonnage? I assume that is safer than cranking up the pressure relief on the valve even though I have all 3000 + psi hoses.
 
I will get some pictures this weekend and post them . It is VERY heavy duty, fully welded box beam with wedge on ram . Ram support is reinforced from all angles. I do realize though that if the builder only intended to have a 5hp engine and 11gpm pump at 2000 psi and 2 -1/2 inch ram he may not have beefed some spots up enough. He was a local logger -now retired -and he built several of these splitters . There were several different designs and configurations but all very heavy fully welded beam construction. If my actual tonnage is only running in the less than 10 ton range and it seems to split almost every thing I throw at it then do I really need to see 25 tons? or is that just a numbers game - bigger has to be better?
 
2.5 is unusually small, unless someone put a replacement cylinder on it.

When you say ram, are you confusing it with rod size?

Cylinder BORE is the inside of the tubing, the piston size. Usually about a half inch small smaller than the tube.

Cylinder ROD is the chromed rod sticking out.
Rod size is picked for strength in buckling, it has nothing to do with the push force. (Well, it does if cylinder is used in regeneration mode, like the new Prince valve, but that is another topic.)

Area of a circle is pi x rad x radius, but since radius is diameter/2, I find it easier to use: area = (pi x D x D) / 4

Push area is thus (3.14 x bore x bore) / 4
Area times pressure is force.

Pull area is the push side, the bore area, minus the rod area, the steel area.
( which is (3.14 x rod diam x rod diam ) / 4 )
Then pull force is that net area times pressure.

Are you sure it is 10 tons?

kcj
 
Can't imagine anyone building a splitter with 2.5" cylinder. It would be way fast but light on power. However that might explain it not wanting to split. 4" is about the smallest most splitters use and will split most real tough wood at 2000PSI.
 
Kevin J

No logger wood build a splitter with a 2,5 in cyl bore, He must be talkin about the rod dia,...Good point Kevin,....Eric
 
if in fact the cylinder is only a 2 -1/2 inch and I see 2000 psi on the inlet to the ram then I am only getting about 5 tons??? Is it that simple then to leave the 8hp engine and 16gpm pump and up the ram to a 4 to 5 inch and dramatically increase the tonnage? I assume that is safer than cranking up the pressure relief on the valve even though I have all 3000 + psi hoses.


Yes, it is that simple IF the armature is built to take the stress. Uping the size of the cylinder gives more push but also more "slow".

Harry K
 
ok -my bad. Yes the 2 1/2 referred to the rod size. The housing is much larger. But how do you measure the inside of the cylinder with it all assembled? is there some sort of standard that if the end plate is a certain size then the piston is x size? That all makes way more sense because there is no way i have been using this all these years if it only calculated out to less than 10 tons . When I get some pics tomorrow I will take some measurements of the casing . thanks to all for the info.
 
measure the tube OD. Usually tubes are 1/4 to 3/8 depending on diameter and pressure rating. So, OD minus 1/2 inch is close enough for what good guesses.

2.5 rod is healthy. Usually only required for long stroke, or large bore, so you must have serious force there.

kcj
 
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