Splitter ram is running slow and lack of power.

[Pruning@trunk]

It just seems like the last two times I used my splitter it cycles 2 times slower than normal and there isn't the splitter power it used to have.

I thought maybe the filter was clogged so I replaced it and it didn't change anything. Fluid levels are full. The weather temperature has been in the 60-70's so I'm not sure if that is effecting anything. It has worked fine the whole fall and winter. I bought the splitter used this fall. Also there isn't enough power on the return stroke for it to disengage the splitting valve either.

Could the control valve be bad? A valve not fully opening or fluids by-passing the valve? Can these be rebuilt? It is a prince valve.

Do you think the pump is giving out? If it is is there a way to test the pump to double check? Also can one get a higher gpm with the set up I have?

The engine is a honda gx390. The pump is a Haldex 22gpm or it could be a Barnes 16gpm. The cylinder is a 5in 30" prince. The splitter is made by Northern (North Star) model 11952.

 

[aokpops]

Had the same trouble pump was shot , look for a clog or kink return line . The only way I know to check the pump is with a new one.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Had the same trouble pump was shot , look for a clog or kink return line . The only way I know to check the pump is with a new one.

Can check pump with pressure and flow gauges.

 

[Mike Van]

Could be a sheared key on the coupler too -

 

[Pruning@trunk]

Can you explain a sheared key on the coupler? The coupler on the control valve?

 

[ray benson]

Can you explain a sheared key on the coupler? The coupler on the control valve?

Motor and pump have coupling keyways that need a key.

 

[cantoo]

pruning@trunk, google lovejoy coupler and you will see the keyway. It could be wrecked but still allow it to turn somewhat, when it gets under load it would spin on the shaft.

 

[Pruning@trunk]

Ok so what I did so far was opened both pressure relief valves on the pump and valve control to make sure there wasn't any debris in there.

I bought a pressure gauge that I will install tomorrow and install it in different locations to check pressure throughout the system.

I also did a cylinder seal check on both ports and there were no leaks.

Tomorrow will be telling.

 

[Pruning@trunk]

pruning@trunk, google lovejoy coupler and you will see the keyway. It could be wrecked but still allow it to turn somewhat, when it gets under load it would spin on the shaft.

I am not sure this would be the case b/c the motor does bog a little in the forward or return stroke at the end of the stroke--I would think if there wasn't a key there would be no bogging at the end of the stroke but I could be incorrect.

I am sorta leaning towards the pressure valve and or pump got out of whack and it just has to be set properly--this is just a hunch or maybe just wishful thinking.

 

[Pruning@trunk]

I installed the gauge on the high pressure side of the pump and on the stroke forward after the valve body. Both show when under max pressure when splitting a log 475 psi.

I am leaning towards that the pump is bad. I did fine very fine metal flakes in the hydro oil.

Is there anything else I'm missing? Do you think I found the problem?

If it is the pump I was thinking of replacing it with the same Haldex Pump (22gpm). Would I notice a difference if I found a 24-25gpm pump? The valve body maximum flow is 25gpm.

Is there another better brand out there I should consider?

 

[triptester]

What you have tested so far does not prove a bad pump. The pressure relief in the control valve could have a broken spring or be blocked open.
To accurately tested the pump you need to bypass the control valve and cylinder. To do this a gauge and high pressure valve between the pump discharge and the tank must be installed. WARNING there will be no relief so extreme caution must be taken to prevent injury or component damage. The valve must be open before starting engine, then very slowly closed watching the gauge pressure. Do not exceed 3000 psi.
These pumps do not have a built-in relief and are capable of much higher pressures which can cause pump or engine damage.

 

[Pruning@trunk]

I did open up the pressure relief valve in the control valve. The spring was not broken. I inspected and clean that area too. I increased the pressure relief valve to maximum pressure and no change on the gauge. The change only came when pressure was decreased. I returned it to the original setting.

Another reason why I was thinking the pump was the heat it produced in relation to the other areas and the very fine metal flaking. I didn't have a IR gauge I just use touch. The second warmest spot was by the filter.

 

[Pruning@trunk]

The pump was the culprit. Also the love joy connection on the motor side had a crack in it so I replaced that too. I am going to replace the valve body with a 2 way detent valve since It won't be long tell that goes since there are fine metal flakes coming from it when I took off the hose. I will also flush the fluid and put a magnet in the tank to help with keeping the system clean.

 

[Mike Van]

Good deal - Get back to splittin' wood!

 

[GM_Grimmy]

The pump was the culprit. Also the love joy connection on the motor side had a crack in it so I replaced that too. I am going to replace the valve body with a 2 way detent valve since It won't be long tell that goes since there are fine metal flakes coming from it when I took off the hose. I will also flush the fluid and put a magnet in the tank to help with keeping the system clean.

A good filter would help that out as well!

 

[Pruning@trunk]

it has an inline filter and also im using a napa 1759 spin on filter--it is pretty big--10 microns i think