Splitting Wedges

[jsd176]

I have a few rounds at home and I know I'll get more that I can't simply spilt with my axe or mega maul. I’d also like to save ripping them as a last resort. Since I have some gift cards for Christmas, I'm going to stop after work today and pick up a sledge hammer and a wedge or two. The sledge is a no brainer, I need one for more than just splitting wood anyway.

My question is about the wedges. I am planning on getting an Estwing wedge from Home Depot. It’s about $20 and looks solid. I’m pretty sure about getting that one. Do I need more than one wedge? I see where Lowe’s has some wedges from Truper for $10. One is a standard wedge and the other is a conical one. Are these wedges any good? For $10, I figure I might as well try them but if I am better off getting two Estwing wedges, I’ll go that route.

Let me know what everyone thinks.

 

[gwiley]

I use 3 different wedges and feel that each one has its place.

1. My favorite is a simple $5 wedge with a very slight taper and no bevel - very useful for getting started in a hardwood round.

2. My second favorite is the wood grenade (4 fins) - useful for fairly soft rounds that I know will come apart more easily and that are not as likely to spit the wedge out.

3. A $7 wedge with a wide taper that really sucks for getting started but is great for completing a split that is holding the other wedges in.

A few more notes on splitting with wedges:

1. Try to use a sledge that is heavier than the wedge - I prefer the #8 hammer.

2. Wear eye protection - the metal splinters that fly off the wedges are bad news.

3. As a wedge mushrooms its edges get razor sharp - keep spares so that you can take your time to grind the sides down when they get this way. They WILL cut an ungloved hand.

4. Wedges can fly out of a gnarly grained round (or any round for that matter) - stay alert.

5. Wear steel toe boots - I broke my toe before I decided that it was worth taking a few minutes to put the steel toes on.

 

[valleyboy]

I'd go with the Estwing Sure Split (?) wedges. I have one and it works very well. The wedges at Lowe's, at least here in SE Arizona, are made in China & India, they tend to mushroom very easy or you have to grind the edge in order to have it bite into the round.

Have fun shopping!
valleyboy

 

[KodiakKen]

I second the truper iron trouble

when you are out and about..stop at pawn shops or some place that has old tools. I have one left from my dad that I deburred one time and the newer 3 I have have all been cleaned up at least 2-3 times..my question is..if you take a welder and weld a bead around the top will that help with mushrooming? just a thought..

 

[turnkey4099]

I do as Kodiakken does. For tools I will shop the 2nd hand shops. Usually better quality at far lower prices. I carry 4 steel wedges, a sledge and a maul - all used. The wedges took some time grinding the mushrooms but are back in good shape now.

I have had so-so luck buying new wedges. One from Ace had a good taper but teh edge had a blunt taper - totally useless.

You do need at least two because you _will_ eventually stick one in a gnarly round.

The sledge should be a minimum of 8lb, 10 is better. Maul - 6lb is good.

Harry K

 

[gulity1]

Kodiak
I think that the welded area will be too hard and more prone to fracture. I dont think that it would be a wise idea.

 

[pat_58]

i have read where wedges are slightly soft and are made to mushroom for a reason. i think it is because the sledge hammer is supposed to be harder than the wedge it is striking, but can't remember why.

pat.

 

[gwiley]

If two metal tools strike each other hard and use similar hardness steel then one is more likely to fracture. As a rule you want a striking tool to be harder than the thing that it strikes. The mushrooming is intentional as an alternative to exploding.

Anyone with metal working experience want to expound?

 

[KodiakKen]

I appreciate the feedback on wedges

but have had the same 8 pound maul from when I was a child..never a chip or a dent in it. dad's old wedge..mushrooms almost none. new wedges..maybe 4 or 5 weeks of semi-usage. so tell me what is harder..metal on metal..or metal pushing through wood..something has to give..same hardness metal..there is a give point..in wood splitting..it would be the wood..IF and only IF you have the same hardness sledge and wedge..the total force would be exerted in the wood..wrong? I am no scientist..I have mushroomed new steel a lot more than old steel....just thinking out loud..and the weld around the striking point.. looking to make more time before sawzall and grinding. I know a bead of weld is heat tempered but there has to be something to make a cheap wedge last longer. just a thought

 

[KodiakKen]

oh yeah..guilty...no "real experience" here

but a weld is stronger than the thing you weld..brittleness(if that is a word) is another thought..tensile strength, ductile strength, and impact force play a major role for use real working men and women. just a thought I have been pondering... If you look at the european wedges...they taper...if it does mushroom.it is more likely to pass through the split than a standard taper..I need to post a pic to show what I am talking about..but smart I think..pics to follow shortly

 

[KodiakKen]

gransford bruks first then my arsenal

the one on the far left is the old one..dressed once..it is considerably shorter..maybe I should take that into effect..but I have been beating on that just as much as the others...hold up a lot better

 

[Ductape]

You will definitely want an absolute minimum of two wedges. Please heed the warnings about dressing the wedges as they begin to mushroom. I'm one who has a chunk of steel in my leg from splitting....... i can set a metal detector off with it. Keep up with the dressing, and everyone will be happy.

 

[rmaki71872]

I also second the Estwing Sure Split Wedge. After looking at it for a couple of years I purchased one this fall and it works very good. It had no problems with large maple rounds, that the maul would bounce off.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I have never felt forced to use wedges. I don't deal with those 2'+ hardwood rounds...I just do simple stright grain, no tough nuts, 2' fir rounds.
Can some one please make a videoclip to post, showing how to split a 2'+, TOUGH, hardwood round with a your favourite wedge. Would be interesting to see how you guys have to struggle with this, and hopefully I get better prepared with that day hit me.....

BTW, I do use two Fiskars Super Splitter, if one do not make it I use the second as a hammer....(lifetime warranty )

 

[Philbert]

You do need at least two because you _will_ eventually stick one in a gnarly round.

Good info in gwiley's post (#2) also.

I don't like the round 'wood grenade' wedges as much as the simple, steel wedges. Get 2 or 3, as the first one can easily get wedged in (stuck) and the second is needed to free it. A third wedge is helpful for very large rounds to keep it moving.

I do use two Fiskars Super Splitter, if one do not make it I use the second as a hammer....(lifetime warranty )

Not good for the mauls, even with the warranty. Could also lead to a flying chip as the two meet.

Philbert

 

[turnkey4099]

Good info in gwiley's post (#2) also.

I don't like the round 'wood grenade' wedges as much as the simple, steel wedges. Get 2 or 3, as the first one can easily get wedged in (stuck) and the second is needed to free it. A third wedge is helpful for very large rounds to keep it moving.

Not good for the mauls, even with the warranty. Could also lead to a flying chip as the two meet.

Philbert

Also don't care for the round, twisty, or grenade styles.

Mauls are designed to be struck on the poll, the only 'chips' that will come off are due to letting the mushroom get too bad.

The Mythbusters worked their tails off to get the 'tempered on tempered' splits, cracks, chips and never succeeded.

Harry K

 

[Philbert]

Mauls are designed to be struck on the poll, the only 'chips' that will come off are due to letting the mushroom get too bad.

Mauls are designed to strike with, against a softer wedge as noted earlier, not by another object. Hitting a maul with a maul (or a hammer with a hammer), results in 'hard' hitting 'hard'. Might depend on the design of the individual tool/brand/model, but generally not recommended.

I enjoy the 'Mythbusters' guys - they have a lot of fun on their show. But their science isn't always right on.

Philbert

 

[ray benson]

My splitting tools. Keep those wedges dressed to prevent spalling.

 

[gwiley]

Nice set of splitting tools! I see the tape on the handles, have you tried using old radiator hoses as handle protectors? I have decent aim but every now and then I miss or the round breaks such that the handle impacts the wood.

 

[Austin1]

You don't have to rip the whole piece of wood just cut through the side with the most knots about 4'' deep it makes splitting much easier I did this before I bought my splitter.leave it cut side up through the winter it will fill with snow then melt then freeze and it will start to split on itself.