stihl 025 not oiling

[JONSSTIHL]

does anyone know if I can fit the pick up body of the oil hose through the hole where the connector is in the bottom of the saw.

I tried to take out the pick up body like the service manual shows it, through the filler cap hole but the hose wasn't long enough and the body came off the end of the hose before I could get a hold on the hose. any trick to getting the pick up back on. I'm thinking I need to pull off the connector and put it on before putting the hose back in through the bottom of the saw but I'm not sure it will fit.

is there a common area for problems when it comes to not oiling, my 025 doesn't have an adjustable oiler and the pick up body was dirty but I don't think it was clogged completely. there seems to be oil leaking from behind the clutch.

is the pick up body supposed to be a plastic cylinder with holes in it or is there supposed to be some kind of metallic mesh like the fuel filter

does anyone see a problem with flushing the tank out with gas

thanks for any tips

James

 

[THALL10326]

does anyone know if I can fit the pick up body of the oil hose through the hole where the connector is in the bottom of the saw.

I tried to take out the pick up body like the service manual shows it, through the filler cap hole but the hose wasn't long enough and the body came off the end of the hose before I could get a hold on the hose. any trick to getting the pick up back on. I'm thinking I need to pull off the connector and put it on before putting the hose back in through the bottom of the saw but I'm not sure it will fit.

is there a common area for problems when it comes to not oiling, my 025 doesn't have an adjustable oiler and the pick up body was dirty but I don't think it was clogged completely. there seems to be oil leaking from behind the clutch.

is the pick up body supposed to be a plastic cylinder with holes in it or is there supposed to be some kind of metallic mesh like the fuel filter

does anyone see a problem with flushing the tank out with gas

thanks for any tips

James

Easy way to put that strainer back on the oil hose is to take off the handle and take the hose out through the bottom of the case. Just about every 025 I've worked on that had oil problems were due to the hose itself clogging up. Clean the strainer and the hose too. Very rarely do the oil pumps go out in those saws. Most of the time its a clogged strainer and hose or, the big or, the oil pump drive gear , some call it the oil worm gear, wears out. Its behind the clutch. A $8.00 item that must work in order for the oil pump to work. All it does is spin the oil pump, no spin no oil.....

 

[JONSSTIHL]

The pick up body fits through the hole on the underside of the saw near the connector, I went back out and tried it. the spring is worn a little but it still contacts the clutch drum even if I pull the clutch drum outwards to remove the axial play. I haven't taken out the clutch so I don't know if the worm is stripped.

the suction hose was clear with no obstruction found. is there a way to clean the passage between the pump and the outlet port near the bar mount without taking out the pump.

how hard is the pump to replace, the service manual says you need a special tool but is it absolutely necessary. how do you tell how deep to install the pump.

thanks
James

 

[JONSSTIHL]

thaks thall your post wasn't there when I started my reply.

I cleaned out the strainer and put it back in through the bottom . the longest part was taking off the handle.

how about flushing out the tank with gas, is that a problem or am I worrying about nothing.

i guess I have to put the bar and chain back on and try it out

thanks.

James

 

[THALL10326]

The pick up body fits through the hole on the underside of the saw near the connector, I went back out and tried it. the spring is worn a little but it still contacts the clutch drum even if I pull the clutch drum outwards to remove the axial play. I haven't taken out the clutch so I don't know if the worm is stripped.

the suction hose was clear with no obstruction found. is there a way to clean the passage between the pump and the outlet port near the bar mount without taking out the pump.

how hard is the pump to replace, the service manual says you need a special tool but is it absolutely necessary. how do you tell how deep to install the pump.

thanks
James

They claim a specail tool but a simple screw will do. If you want to remove the oil pump you still need to take the clutch off so you can mark the pump. Thats how you know where it goes back. Put a scratch on it so when you put it back in you know where to stop by the scratch you put on it before you pulled it out. The oil pump has threads on the bottom of it. I take a standard Stihl screw, not the ones that are for plastic mind ya, and screw into the bottom of the oil pump. I take a pair of vice grips and clamp the screw and tap the vice grips with a hammer and out comes the oil pump. It has a square slot on one side of it and if your hose was clean and strainer was too check that slot for garbage. When you put it back in beware to make sure the hole in the oil pump lines up with the oil hole in the case. When you tap the screw you have in the bottom of the oil pump and push the pump back in you look for the mark or scratch you put on it. When you see it thats the stopping point. Before doing any of that check your worm gear first. If the wire ring on it is loose there's ya problem........

 

[THALL10326]

thaks thall your post wasn't there when I started my reply.

I cleaned out the strainer and put it back in through the bottom . the longest part was taking off the handle.

how about flushing out the tank with gas, is that a problem or am I worrying about nothing.

i guess I have to put the bar and chain back on and try it out

thanks.

James

Good luck with it. One thing you can relax about is the whole oil system on that saw doesn't cost much. You got a clean hose and strainer so your down to two main parts, the worm gear and the pump itself. Neither are very costly. Check that worm gear though, they usually wear out way before the pump does.....

 

[JONSSTIHL]

thanks a lot,

i guess I will try it like this and see if my little clean up did any good then the next step is off with the clutch. the spring is a little worn so I'm hoping it is the worm gear.

I just noticed today that my clutch has 1 spring that is different from the other 2 is that normal on an 025. I've read the post about what some dealer did to an 066 about the different springs and I'm wondering if mine is suffering from the same fate. It doesn't seem to vibrate excessively

Thanks
James

 

[THALL10326]

thanks a lot,

i guess I will try it like this and see if my little clean up did any good then the next step is off with the clutch. the spring is a little worn so I'm hoping it is the worm gear.

I just noticed today that my clutch has 1 spring that is different from the other 2 is that normal on an 025. I've read the post about what some dealer did to an 066 about the different springs and I'm wondering if mine is suffering from the same fate. It doesn't seem to vibrate excessively

Thanks
James

Yup yup all three of those springs should be the same. People have been known to put the wrong 3 springs in but a mixed batch is not good. Before your done my man your going to be a Stihl tech, your learning that saw real fast, good job. No doult in my mind your going to have it oiling like new in no time..........

 

[JONSSTIHL]

This may be off topic but since we are talking about clutch springs, is there any way to tell when the clutch shoes are bad. there doesn't seem to be too much wear at the holes where the springs attach but what about the outside dia.

I was away yesterday so I haven't worked on it yet but all I have to do is flush out the tank and put the bar and chain back on and try it out.

Thanks
James

 

[Lakeside53]

Outside wear isn't an issue. They are harder than the drum, so the drums wear first. If the holes aren't elongated, they fit reasonably well onto the center spider, and have no cracks, they will be o.k.

It's very rare to see a bad clutch shoe a small Stihl.

 

[JONSSTIHL]

thanks, I figured wear wasn't an issue but just thought I would ask.

any tips on changing the clutch springs

i fired it up today and it's still not oiling so the clutch will have to come out so I can check the worm

is it easier to change the clutch springs with the clutch still on the saw or is it better to take it off.

thanks
James

 

[Lakeside53]

It's easier to change with it of - just put it in the vice. If you do it on the saw, it's easier if you stop the piston with a short length of 3/8 nylon rope - be sure the piston is above the exhaust port before inserting it.

 

[JONSSTIHL]

I finally had time to work on it (I got my girlfriend to hold the saw while I worked the wrench) and I've discovered a can of worms.

the saw was leaking oil when it was just sitting and when I took off the clutch I found the cause of both problems.

the housing has a hole in it right through to the oil pump and some of the oil passage is exposed also, I'm not sure if it is the intake or the output side of the oil pump but it would explain why there is no oil coming out onto the bar.

one of the clutch springs has been cut and unwound one turn to hook it back up. my guess is that when that clutch spring broke (before I had the saw) it mangled up the housing. the worm is still in decent shape atleast the gear part but the outward flange must have taken a beating from the spring also because it looks pretty bad.

has anyone here had any luck patching cracks or holes in housings with epoxy or (jb weld) or if anyone happens to have a spare housing assembly lying around that they want to get rid of.

thanks
James

 

[THALL10326]

I finally had time to work on it (I got my girlfriend to hold the saw while I worked the wrench) and I've discovered a can of worms.

the saw was leaking oil when it was just sitting and when I took off the clutch I found the cause of both problems.

the housing has a hole in it right through to the oil pump and some of the oil passage is exposed also, I'm not sure if it is the intake or the output side of the oil pump but it would explain why there is no oil coming out onto the bar.

one of the clutch springs has been cut and unwound one turn to hook it back up. my guess is that when that clutch spring broke (before I had the saw) it mangled up the housing. the worm is still in decent shape atleast the gear part but the outward flange must have taken a beating from the spring also because it looks pretty bad.

has anyone here had any luck patching cracks or holes in housings with epoxy or (jb weld) or if anyone happens to have a spare housing assembly lying around that they want to get rid of.

thanks
James

Yikes. You found a hole in the case huh. That means that one odd clutch spring you found on your clutch has a story behind it. More than likely the old spring broke and the saw was still used with only two clutch springs. That broken spring got in behind the clutch and chewed a hole in the case. Is the area where the oil pump sits still in good condition? I've seen these saws used with broken clutch springs to the point the whole housing is ruined because there is nothing left to hold the pump in place. Check that area closely before going any further.

 

[JONSSTIHL]

you beat me to it thall, I was going to post an update.

I checked it out a little closer after cleaning out the area and there is a small hole in the case maybe .060" diameter but after looking at where the oil pump fits into the bottom of the case I think it may have just worn a hole in the oil pump so I think a new pump would fix it. there is definitely less material to hold the new pump in but I think it would work with a new pump.

i have to find the right screw and pull out the oil pump to confirm this theory. any suggestions about which screw to use

do you think it is worth it to build up the missing mat'l with epoxy or as long as it doesn't leak oil it will be good.

thanks
James

 

[Lakeside53]

The hole in the case is usually from a really bad clutch drum bearing (wobble) or the oil pump drive spring getting pushed into the case by the drum (often from bad assembly - not engaging the spring arm in the notch).

Assuming the pumpis NOT perforated, put the pump back in (just screw a 5mm screw into the end and push it back in) so it positions exactly right, DEGREASE the area around the hole with Carb cleaner, and roughen up the area to be epoxied with a small riffler rasp (woodworking tool - small curved fine rasp). Use JB weld epoxy to seal the hole. It will be as good as new..

I see at least one per month like this. 90% can be fixed.

 

[JONSSTIHL]

I think I will be able to save it. I took out the oil pump to get a closer look at the damage. I couldn't believe it, the first screw I tried out of the can of screws I have was the right size. I think I'm going to go out and buy a lottery ticket today.


the hole is right between the oil pump and the connector. there is no damage to the connector but the pump has a bit of wear on the corner but I don't think there are any rotating parts inside because it is worn on the end that has the threaded hole to be able to remove it.

the damage to the housing is only on the exhaust side for a little less than 180 degrees the intake side hasn't even been touched. my best guess would be agreeing with thall and hoping it is the odd ball clutch spring that broke and mangled the housing.

since the hole is a little past the pump I was thinking of inserting the pump but not all the way so that it is blocking the hole, patching with epoxy and letting it cure then pushing the pump the rest of the way in to where it is supposed to be seated. I was thinking maybe putting a bit of oil on the pump itself so the epoxy doesn't stick to it what do you guys think

thanks
James

 

[Lakeside53]

Insert the pump fully then epoxy... If you're worried about it adhering to the pump, put a TINY blob of wax (only on the metal) right where you see the pump body though the casing.

 

[JONSSTIHL]

thanks a lot for all your help guys, the saw is back up and running thanks to a little jb weld and a new clutch spring

and the oil is coming out on the bar just fine.

I was wondering what kind of life expectancy I can expect from this repair. I'm worried that the heat from running the saw will loosen up the patch. jb weld has a quote on their package that says one guy fixed a cracked engine block so i'm guessing it can take the heat.

the jb weld seems to be holding on tight but it doesn't seem very hard. I can scratch it with my fingernail quite easily.

I can't wait to make some chips fly with it, maybe this weekend.

thanks
James

 

[THALL10326]

thanks a lot for all your help guys, the saw is back up and running thanks to a little jb weld and a new clutch spring

and the oil is coming out on the bar just fine.

I was wondering what kind of life expectancy I can expect from this repair. I'm worried that the heat from running the saw will loosen up the patch. jb weld has a quote on their package that says one guy fixed a cracked engine block so i'm guessing it can take the heat.

the jb weld seems to be holding on tight but it doesn't seem very hard. I can scratch it with my fingernail quite easily.

I can't wait to make some chips fly with it, maybe this weekend.

thanks
James

Good job. Just goes to show what a little patience can do. The JB weld will hold fine, no need to worry. Enjoy, you did a dayumm good job on your own,