Stihl 034 AV oil pump/hose install

[pioneerguy600]

That is not a common washer that can be found just at any hardware store, it is a special sized and formed to fit behind the clutch in a fairly tight tolerance condition, the thickness is also a tight tolerance affair the clutch needs to tighten down on it and leave enough of the crank end sticking out to allow for the E clip to be installed to hold the clutch drum in place.

 

[president]

I should also have note that the bar pad does not separate from the chassis, if that is what you meant by the two sections that hold the hose in place. Keep us informed as to how you make out, plenty of guys on this site that have tackled the hose replacement on the 0 series Stihls.

Ya heat gun & silicone spray onto the pump housing also

 

[Greg Poole]

That washer is still available in Canada.
#1128 162 1001

 

[trains]

I got the oil line installed, but it wasn't pretty. As you all indicated, it was not easy! It could be that the barbs on the non-OEM pump outlet were slightly larger than the original, for which reason I couldn't seat the line all the way down on the outlet nozzle (or whatever it's called) no matter how much heat and pressure I applied.. So, I crimped a tiny hose clamp to hold it in place. The clamp doesn't interfere with moving parts. we'll see how long it holds.

This brings me to another question. During reassembly, I noticed that the saw is missing the cover washer (part #9 in the attached diagram). Can anybody recommend a suitable replacement? This missing part could explain why the plastic worm gear was totally destroyed when I opened up the saw.

That hose is not put on correctly, you needed to fit it further down the barbed outlet, just fitting a hose clamp, and hoping it will work is not the way forward.
As Pioneerguy600 said, you need that washer/ plate.
any stihl dealer should be able to order it in for you.

 

[cookies]

After doing this job half a dozen times in a week I no longer heat the plastic line. I shove the line onto the pump onto the first barb but not over it and let it sit 5 minutes then using needle nose I shove it on the barb the rest of the way then I insert the spring and then I feed the line through the case leaving the pump dangling and the line sticking out 3/8 so I can hold it with hemostats to stuff the brass tip in, then I finagle the pump back in place and bolt it in.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Drilling a hole through the jaws of a pair of pliers makes the job of fitting the hose over the oil pump barb the easiest option and I have always used a bit of heat to help with expanding the hose onto the pump, I have always installed the pipe/hose onto the pump barb first, the non heated hose is too stiff at least for me to work it on over the barb. For me I have done far more 044`s than the few 034,036 saws but the saws are very similar in construction, I would not leave that hose as it is now but if the OP can not get it on any further then it would not be dangerous to try it as is, a bit of spilled oil won`tb damage much on a saw.

 

[SteveSr]

This brings me to another question. During reassembly, I noticed that the saw is missing the cover washer (part #9 in the attached diagram). Can anybody recommend a suitable replacement? This missing part could explain why the plastic worm gear was totally destroyed when I opened up the saw.

There were two different types of clutches. One used a separate grenade washer and the other didn't and had an anti-grenade feature built in. You don't want to add a washer if it is not supposed to be there. Post a photo of the back side of the clutch so we can see which clutch you have.

 

[Mad Professor]

Not a bad idea to buy two kits. If you mess it up they don't give you enough to make two out of it.

They used to give you enough for two. That's cut for a 036

The special washer is in the 5th picture

 

[Mad Professor]

While you are in there, do the clutch bearing upgrade.

I had one bearing go, but it didn't hurt the crank.

 

[SteveSr]

While you are in there, do the clutch bearing upgrade.

I had one bearing go, but it didn't hurt the crank.

View attachment 1157454

good idea! Stihl also went to t he 1128 series (044) clutch as well in later saws

 

[Lightning Performance]

Make sure the clutch or drum wasn't updated. One takes a washer and one doesn't.

Soak the whole saw and new oil line in boiling water before you get out the heat gun. Yes, you will burn your fingers so use the right pliers or wear leather gloves. Hand soap on the barb makes it easier to go on the pump.

 

[Lightning Performance]

good idea! Stihl also went to t he 1128 series (044) clutch as well in later saws

I found no difference using short bars and regular service to clean and grease the drum bearing. Bet it helps on 24" plus so it can't hurt none.

 

[2StrokeFondler]

That washer is still available in Canada.
#1128 162 1001

My 034 IPL says #1127 162 1000
Maybe it's the same?
1127 would be the 029/290/310/039/390 series, 1128 a 044. Strange...

 

[quixote]

While you are in there, do the clutch bearing upgrade.

I had one bearing go, but it didn't hurt the crank.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[quixote]

That is not a common washer that can be found just at any hardware store, it is a special sized and formed to fit behind the clutch in a fairly tight tolerance condition, the thickness is also a tight tolerance affair the clutch needs to tighten down on it and leave enough of the crank end sticking out to allow for the E clip to be installed to hold the clutch drum in place.

There were two different types of clutches. One used a separate grenade washer and the other didn't and had an anti-grenade feature built in. You don't want to add a washer if it is not supposed to be there. Post a photo of the back side of the clutch so we can see which clutch you have.

Thanks, here is the photo....

While I'm here, I'll mention a doubt I am having about the plastic worm gear that came with the oil pump. As I turn the gear, the little bar projecting from it comes into contact with surrounding parts, unless it is perfectly centered. When perfectly centered, it may have 1mm clearance, but there is definite wiggle room between the gear and the shaft. Is this normal?

 

[Greg Poole]

Thanks, here is the photo....

While I'm here, I'll mention a doubt I am having about the plastic worm gear that came with the oil pump. As I turn the gear, the little bar projecting from it comes into contact with surrounding parts, unless it is perfectly centered. When perfectly centered, it may have 1mm clearance, but there is definite wiggle room between the gear and the shaft. Is this normal?

There is a bushing that goes inside the worm and a small washer that goes on before the bushing and worm gear. Do you have these two pieces?

 

[quixote]

There is a bushing that goes inside the worm and a small washer that goes on before the bushing and worm gear. Do you have these two pieces?

Unfortunately, I do not. This probably explains why the work gear was destroyed when I opened up the saw. I will try to track down these parts. Thanks.

 

[Greg Poole]

Unfortunately, I do not. This probably explains why the work gear was destroyed when I opened up the saw. I will try to track down these parts. Thanks.

#18 & 21 in the photo
0000 993 0510
1125 647 7800

 

[quixote]

#18 & 21 in the photo
0000 993 0510
1125 647 7800

Great! Thanks!

 

[Greg Poole]

Great! Thanks!

No worries