Stihl 034 AV oil pump/hose install

[quixote]

So, I have the oil pump unbolted and now have a question about the oil pump hose. I went to remove the hose only to find that it is firmly pinched between the parts of the saw that it passes through (see photo). Before I take the saw apart anymore than I already have, I just wanted to confirm that I do need to separate the two sections of the saw that hold the hose in place in order for the hose to be removed.
Yes, this saw needs a deep cleaning!...pretty embarrassing. Thanks!

 

[pioneerguy600]

You are attempting one of the most difficult repairs there is on the 0 series Stihl saws. That hose is always stiff as a solid wire to work with and there is a brass furrel in the end of the line where it disappears into the bar pad. It is best to work the line forward into the bar pad far enough to pull the brass furrel out so that the line can then be pulled back out toward the pump. A bit of heat from a heat gun has helped me when changing out these lines.

 

[quixote]

You are attempting one of the most difficult repairs there is on the 0 series Stihl saws. That hose is always stiff as a solid wire to work with and there is a brass furrel in the end of the line where it disappears into the bar pad. It is best to work the line forward into the bar pad far enough to pull the brass furrel out so that the line can then be pulled back out toward the pump. A bit of heat from a heat gun has helped me when changing out these lines.

Noted! Thanks.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Noted! Thanks.

I should also have note that the bar pad does not separate from the chassis, if that is what you meant by the two sections that hold the hose in place. Keep us informed as to how you make out, plenty of guys on this site that have tackled the hose replacement on the 0 series Stihls.

 

[quixote]

I should also have note that the bar pad does not separate from the chassis, if that is what you meant by the two sections that hold the hose in place. Keep us informed as to how you make out, plenty of guys on this site that have tackled the hose replacement on the 0 series Stihls.

Yep, that is exactly what I meant. Good to know.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yep, that is exactly what I meant. Good to know.

Another trick I have tried with success was to cut the old line flush with the chassis where it enters the bar pad, then using a punch tap it in and the brass furrel did push out so I could grab it with needle nose pliers.

 

[Greg Poole]

I just did one on a 036. Get the kit from Stihl #1124 007 1010. It was only $7 Canadian. It comes with a new spring and a new brass insert. I used a 6 mm punch to drive the old oil hose down the channel, from the bar pad, towards the oil pump until it was out. I used a heat gun and the magic number was 140°Celsius or 280°Fahrenheit. I rolled the last half inch of the new tube, 1 inch in front of the heat gun, for 30 seconds. Then, quickly, pushed the new hose onto the oil pump nipple. Next, slide the spring down inside the tube.
Next, I worked/pushed the new tube, from the oil pump side, up into the channel until it stuck out 1 inch from the bar pad. Then, I used the heat gun again, at the same setting, to warm the last half inch of the hose that was sticking out, and then quickly pushed the brass insert into the hose. Finally, I used the 6 mm punch to tap the brass insert and hose into the bar pad recess slot until it was 1 to 2 mm below the slot edge.

 

[Greg Poole]

Stihl instructions that come in the kit. I did not use the modified pliers as was suggested. I was careful not to pinch the hose too tightly while I pushed it onto the oil pump nipple.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Not a bad idea to buy two kits. If you mess it up they don't give you enough to make two out of it.

 

[Greg Poole]

Not a bad idea to buy two kits. If you mess it up they don't give you enough to make two out of it.

Actually, for the 034, 036, MS 360 series, there is actually enough tube for two attempts in case you screw it up. I believe it is the 084 that uses almost the entire length.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Stihl instructions that come in the kit. I did not use the modified pliers as was suggested. I was careful not to pinch the hose too tightly while I pushed it onto the oil pump nipple.

Just a bit of heat soak really helps seat the hose over the pump nipple, it is easier to install that end first and soaking the end of the hose in very hot water for a few mins helps with getting it on. Then it is easier to bend the line toward the bar pad and insert it in the bore, push the brass furrel in last.

 

[Greg Poole]

After I have the tube on the pump nipple and pushed down into the bar slot recess, I use the heat gun to warm the tube, where it bends, as I move the oil pump into position.

 

[pioneerguy600]

After I have the tube on the pump nipple and pushed down into the bar slot recess, I use the heat gun to warm the tube, where it bends, as I move the oil pump into position.

Yes heat is your friend, not too much just a bit to help with bending, same for expanding as in pushing it on over the pump nipple, I have even heated the bar pad area on the 044 installs that I have done many more replacements on than any other 0 series, the heat made the insertion of the hose into the bar pad easy and then slipping the brass furrel in a snap also. With the heat gun it is very easy to get the gun tip too close and damage the line so for the ends I have often used hot water, this allows for a more thorough heat soak, the guns heat the outside of the hose quickly but not all around all sides, the water heats evenly and all the way through, just be careful with the heat guns. The hose seems to get really hard and even brittle after being overheated it may cut down on how long it lasts after install.

 

[quixote]

I just did one on a 036. Get the kit from Stihl #1124 007 1010. It was only $7 Canadian. It comes with a new spring and a new brass insert. I used a 6 mm punch to drive the old oil hose down the channel, from the bar pad, towards the oil pump until it was out. I used a heat gun and the magic number was 140°Celsius or 280°Fahrenheit. I rolled the last half inch of the new tube, 1 inch in front of the heat gun, for 30 seconds. Then, quickly, pushed the new hose onto the oil pump nipple. Next, slide the spring down inside the tube.
Next, I worked/pushed the new tube, from the oil pump side, up into the channel until it stuck out 1 inch from the bar pad. Then, I used the heat gun again, at the same setting, to warm the last half inch of the hose that was sticking out, and then quickly pushed the brass insert into the hose. Finally, I used the 6 mm punch to tap the brass insert and hose into the bar pad recess slot until it was 1 to 2 mm below the slot edge.

Turns out my kit did not include the impulse hose, so had to order separately. So the repair is on hold until it arrives. Thanks for the pointers.

 

[quixote]

Just a bit of heat soak really helps seat the hose over the pump nipple, it is easier to install that end first and soaking the end of the hose in very hot water for a few mins helps with getting it on. Then it is easier to bend the line toward the bar pad and insert it in the bore, push the brass furrel in last.

You are absolutely right about the heat. I learned this when repairing fuel line on my 93 Volvo 940, which has a banjo bolt that is barbed just like this oil pump nipple. Now I can once again remind my wife that owing old Volvos continues to pay dividends....

 

[ZeroJunk]

Actually, for the 034, 036, MS 360 series, there is actually enough tube for two attempts in case you screw it up. I believe it is the 084 that uses almost the entire length.

Not in my case. Don't recall ever knowing what the length was supposed to be. Just cut the excess with a razor.
Likely bass ackwards like half the stuff I do.
My problem has always been getting the material too hot and it collapses trying to get it on the pump. So, then that is wasted.
Luckily I have not seen that issue in years. Newer saws are a piece of cake.

 

[Greg Poole]

Maybe, they updated the kit to include longer tubing, so that one kit would do all of the saws.
There’s many ways to do it. I have tried Pioneerguy600’s way; unfortunately, my two left hands and sausage fingers don’t allow me to move quick enough before the tube cools! I have found that using the heat gun set at 140°C and rolling the tube in front of the heat gun, 1 inch away from it, is perfect for me. Don’t ask me how I know that a lighter is not a good idea!

 

[Greg Poole]

If the OP has never done it before, he could practice and experiment with putting the old tube back on the oil pump and see which way works for him before installing the new tube.

When pushing the tube onto the oil pump nipple, make sure to push it straight down. I have broken a nipple off the pump by not pushing it straight down!

When I am removing the old tube, I heat it and then slice it on an angle with a sharp knife and it comes off the pump like butter and the brass fitting comes out of the other end and is reusable.

 

[quixote]

I got the oil line installed, but it wasn't pretty. As you all indicated, it was not easy! It could be that the barbs on the non-OEM pump outlet were slightly larger than the original, for which reason I couldn't seat the line all the way down on the outlet nozzle (or whatever it's called) no matter how much heat and pressure I applied.. So, I crimped a tiny hose clamp to hold it in place. The clamp doesn't interfere with moving parts. we'll see how long it holds.

This brings me to another question. During reassembly, I noticed that the saw is missing the cover washer (part #9 in the attached diagram). Can anybody recommend a suitable replacement? This missing part could explain why the plastic worm gear was totally destroyed when I opened up the saw.

 

[pioneerguy600]

That washer you mentioned is what is there to protect the pump and line in case a clutch spring breaks and they usually do break at the hook, they will still rotate with the clutch but work down and chaffe the oil pump destroying both. Did you try contacting a Stihl dealer to see if that washer can still be ordered in?