Stihl 026 rebuild

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Now the painful wait for parts.
Could be a week or 2

Will get this thread warmed back up when I get the bits

Once again....... thanks sooooo much for all the help folks!

Once this is done its on the 066 Magnum :rock2:
 
I would love to hear some suggestions on bar and chain for this saw once done...... I am no expert
I am fairly confident it will run hard.

My way of thinking is the 325 chain will sap less power and let me hold optimal revs but then I question this thought as there are more teeth in the wood than 3/8 and the rakes are set at the same depth

I still like the thought of 325 for smaller timber. When cutting up a fallen eucalyptus, half the work can be be 6" and below
As you can see below, what I cut usually have a massive trunk between 2 and 4 feet thick, and then turn into a nightmare of thin branches, hence my opting for an 026 and 066.
I find the usual 60cc "firewood" saw is either too big or too small and is just right about 20% of the time.

big tree 1.jpg

big tree 2.jpg

That's what is driving my decision towards 325 as opposed to 3/8

opinions welcome as always..... I like opinions that question my personal thoughts...... its called learning :cheers:
 
I would love to hear some suggestions on bar and chain for this saw once done...... I am no expert
I am fairly confident it will run hard.

My way of thinking is the 325 chain will sap less power and let me hold optimal revs but then I question this thought as there are more teeth in the wood than 3/8 and the rakes are set at the same depth

I still like the thought of 325 for smaller timber. When cutting up a fallen eucalyptus, half the work can be be 6" and below
As you can see below, what I cut usually have a massive trunk between 2 and 4 feet thick, and then turn into a nightmare of thin branches, hence my opting for an 026 and 066.
I find the usual 60cc "firewood" saw is either too big or too small and is just right about 20% of the time.

View attachment 474820

View attachment 474821

That's what is driving my decision towards 325 as opposed to 3/8

opinions welcome as always..... I like opinions that question my personal thoughts...... its called learning :cheers:
Picco is the way to go. 16" Bar, PS chain, with P7 rim sprocket.
 
When I get this beast built, I plan to take the bar and chain off, and bolt it on my 066 and see how it cuts with a 9 pin sprocket for some fun.
Might race that with the ported 026 for a laugh :)
 
It depends on the saw design a bit.

I built one of my 026's with bigger ports and only the top ring. It's peakier and runs great with .325, but is a dog with 3/8. The other two I built were milder and are still faster with .325, but not as slow with 3/8.

In general, the smaller the pitch and the narrower the kerf, the easier it is to cut with because you remove less material for the same amount of cut.

Picco should be the fastest on your saw.
 
I run an 18" .325 bar and chain on my ported saw and really like it. It will pull a 20" bar, but dogs out pretty easy. 16" bar runs nicely on it as well, but it has plenty of power to run an 18" bar. I use it primarily for limbing like you've described. I can fall a tree and make pretty short work of zipping all the limbs off with the ported 026. One word of caution though. I found that if I get kickback with the ported saw, it is MUCH more violent than before I ported it. I make sure my chain catcher is serviceable and got a set of chaps. You might consider the same if you don't already have a pair of chaps. I just looked at how fast that saw sliced through solid wood. My legs are pretty mushy compared to an oak tree. Just saying.
 
Tend to run only 3/8 in our hardwood. Find the 0.325 doesn't last quite as well and really only gets used on smaller jobs. Particularly in Eucs with termite trails the bigger chain lasts longer.

IMHO I would seriously consider running 16" 3/8 on your ported 026. If nothing else it would make a nice comparison exercise if you can get your hands on both pitches.

In the absence of a ported 026 I run a 361 and 064 as my main firewood combo.
 
ms260 cylinder.jpg ms260 cylinder2.jpg

I am going to be tackling this soon as well. I am following in hopes of gaining some insight. If a person was going to go this far on one would it be beneficial to smooth out the casting defects in the windows of the piston?
 
I say yes!

My 066 has an aftermarket top end on it, and when I got it, there was a lip about 1 to 2mm high running along the bottom of the intake port at the piston window.
First thing I did was pull the jug and file it smooth.

Any imperfections, sharp corners etc are going to slow airflow down, and in any motor, the name of the game is airflow. Air flows better and faster over smooth rounded surfaces

As a disclaimer, I wouldn't go blindly copying my work (but welcome to do so if you want) as I am NOT an expert at this and I still haven't tested my changes to see if they work or not.
 
Well, unfortunately I have to find a new crank for it. I went to remove the flywheel retainer nut and the end of the crank snapped off. It had been cracked for a while, part of the break was rusted.
 
Meh, it's no big deal. I found several used cases with cranks in them with or without a cyl on ebay for around $40usd.
 
And there is is again......... WT-194 carb.

This seems to be the carb of choice.

I have looked them up and they seem to be an older carb without the air filter compensator on top.

Are they better than my WT-394?
 
And there is is again......... WT-194 carb.

This seems to be the carb of choice.

I have looked them up and they seem to be an older carb without the air filter compensator on top.

Are they better than my WT-394?

The WT-194 is the go-to carb for these saws. If you have another mode with the compensator, and you need it for the pro version or a MS260 just swap the top to the WT-194 and keep rolling. You will be fine!
 
But what is the advantage the 194 has over the later carbs?
Does it have bigger jets for more fuel supply?

There has to be a reason it is the go to carb
 

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