Stihl 026 won’t run

[farmers036]

How were your numbers? This is what I got on the first 026, find out on the 2nd 026 in coming weeks

026 no bg
Ex 98 atdc
Transfers 120 atdc
Intake 74 btdc
22 deg bd

So my 026 with no base gasket has
Ex 103 atdc
Intake 68 btdc
Transfers 120atdc

 

[farmers036]

So my 026 with no base gasket has
Ex 103 atdc
Intake 68 btdc
Transfers 120atdc

And my squish without the gaskit is 40 thousandths

 

[sbc350]

And my squish without the gaskit is 40 thousandths

Man that doesn't sound right for squish, most folk are getting Round the 17 though or even tighter on 026's. Far as attaching I use 1/2 inch drill chuck. Did you triple check your zero also before timing? Wishing had a los exhaust groove like that lol

 

[sbc350]

I’ll let you know when my timing wheel gets here the one I use on diesels i magnetic and sticks to the timing cover I’ll give you a picture of one I can’t use it but what are you using for to attach it to the crank ? I’ll also give you a picture of the one I ordered

 

[drf255]

Is your jug oem?

I’d like to know how you are exactly measuring your squish and timing numbers.

For port timing, the only accurate way is with a pick and ring position (as pushed in jug by piston crown) after a zero’d in degree wheel. The second most accurate is using a micrometer and timing software. Least accurate is visually looking into ex port for roof and transfer closing. Looking through plug hole for light to come through ex roof is slightly better, but still inaccurate.

As for squish, you need to use a solder that’s soft and closest in thickness to calculated squish. If you are using .060 plumbing solder, there will be springback and an artificially large squish. You also have to rotate the piston enough times. If you are on the money, you should stop feeling any contact with the solder at all with rotation.

I personally use .6mm solder (.024) and a drill to turn motor over from the PTO side of the crank.

Not an expert by any means, but I’ve been inside over 50 of the 1121 models. Squish in the 44mm jugs (all 026 and early MS260) is generally .006ish without gasket. On the lare MS260 44.7mm jugs, it’s more like .017 without gasket.

I‘ve never seen an ex roof lower than 98ish on any 1121 jug. Even with taking .065 out of the chamber flat and cutting base for a true squish of .015, I’ve struggled to get the factory oem ex roof below 103-105.

I’d recheck your numbers. YMMV

 

[cookies]

does it pop when you add fuel through the carb? almost wonder if you have a bent rod/broken piston or other internal damage with claiming a .040 squish.

 

[sbc350]

So my 026 with no base gasket has
Ex 103 atdc
Intake 68 btdc
Transfers 120atdc

Is this your first saw you've put a timing wheel on or ported? Looking at previous replies sounds like it is, if you are I strongly suggest checking out Tinman Saws on youtube on his porting series they are in the playlists .
He gives a very good detailed explanation in a series on how to's from start to finish he even has a cut away he uses for explanations

 

[farmers036]

Is this your first saw you've put a timing wheel on or ported? Looking at previous replies sounds like it is, if you are I strongly suggest checking out Tinman Saws on youtube on his porting series they are in the playlists .
He gives a very good detailed explanation in a series on how to's from start to finish he even has a cut away he uses for explanations

Yes this is my first time having a timing degree wheel on a saw I taken apart many saws and other engines and replaced bearings seals and such, as for tinman I have been watching him a lot along with iorn horse

 

[farmers036]

Man that doesn't sound right for squish, most folk are getting Round the 17 though or even tighter on 026's. Far as attaching I use 1/2 inch drill chuck. Did you triple check your zero also before timing? Wishing had a los exhaust groove like that lol

I know I’ve seen a lot of people getting those numbers as well but I took the base gasket out tightened it back down and put some solder in the spark plug hole pushed up against the cylinder wall and let the piston compress the solder doing full revolutions

 

[sbc350]

I know I’ve seen a lot of people getting those numbers as well but I took the base gasket out tightened it back down and put some solder in the spark plug hole pushed up against the cylinder wall and let the piston compress the solder doing full revolutions

Weird, what thickness solider and are you using solid core or resin core? those number seem way off. Are you confirming the timing wheel is also zeroed properly? Like mentioned above that squish isn't right for a 026/ms260

 

[farmers036]

Is your jug oem?

I’d like to know how you are exactly measuring your squish and timing numbers.

For port timing, the only accurate way is with a pick and ring position (as pushed in jug by piston crown) after a zero’d in degree wheel. The second most accurate is using a micrometer and timing software. Least accurate is visually looking into ex port for roof and transfer closing. Looking through plug hole for light to come through ex roof is slightly better, but still inaccurate.

As for squish, you need to use a solder that’s soft and closest in thickness to calculated squish. If you are using .060 plumbing solder, there will be springback and an artificially large squish. You also have to rotate the piston enough times. If you are on the money, you should stop feeling any contact with the solder at all with rotation.

I personally use .6mm solder (.024) and a drill to turn motor over from the PTO side of the crank.

Not an expert by any means, but I’ve been inside over 50 of the 1121 models. Squish in the 44mm jugs (all 026 and early MS260) is generally .006ish without gasket. On the lare MS260 44.7mm jugs, it’s more like .017 without gasket.

I‘ve never seen an ex roof lower than 98ish on any 1121 jug. Even with taking .065 out of the chamber flat and cutting base for a true squish of .015, I’ve struggled to get the factory oem ex roof below 103-105.

I’d recheck your numbers. YMMV

Ok so I must of been off my rocker when I read the squish measurements because I just checked the same solder I used for the measurements last time and with gasket it’s .022 and without gasket it’s .009

 

[farmers036]

This is how I’m attaching mine

 

[farmers036]

Weird, what thickness solider and are you using solid core or resin core? those number seem way off. Are you confirming the timing wheel is also zeroed properly? Like mentioned above that squish isn't right for a 026/ms260

Well I went back and checked the solder again and got .022 with gasket and .009 without base gasket

 

[sbc350]

Well I went back and checked the solder again and got .022 with gasket and .009 without base gasket

Thar sounds more accurate, rencheck the zero on your timing wheel and re check the timing numbers also. Triple check everything to make sure It consistent

 

[farmers036]

Thar sounds more accurate, rencheck the zero on your timing wheel and re check the timing numbers also. Triple check everything to make sure It consistent

I usually sit my kobalt 1/4 ratchet in the spark plug hole and adjust my timing wheel till it’s on the same number clockwise and counter clockwise then pull the ratchet out and check my intake exhaust ect

 

[sbc350]

I usually sit my kobalt 1/4 ratchet in the spark plug hole and adjust my timing wheel till it’s on the same number clockwise and counter clockwise then pull the ratchet out and check my intake exhaust ect

Ya aa long as those numbers check out at the beginning and not always but usually intake opens and closes at the same degree on both sides of the wheel but that does not ALWAYS apply but this saw should

 

[farmers036]

Ya aa long as those numbers check out at the beginning and not always but usually intake opens and closes at the same degree on both sides of the wheel but that does not ALWAYS apply but this saw shoul

I usually sit my kobalt 1/4 ratchet in the spark plug hole and adjust my timing wheel till it’s on the same number clockwise and counter clockwise then pull the ratchet out and check my intake exhaust ect

Well I think I’m gonna start out small since this is my first ever port on a chainsaw and just widen the lower transfers and do a little exhaust and intake grinding make my own base gasket and adjust the timing I’ve messed with timing before but never porting

 

[sbc350]

Don't suggest what is in this video, was for Entertainment purposes only.
what do you want from the saw, bar and chain size and so on. Building to work or just going to send it and hope for the best?

 

[farmers036]

Don't suggest what is in this video, was for Entertainment purposes only.
what do you want from the saw, bar and chain size and so on. Building to work or just going to send it and hope for the best?

I’m building to work but really I use my 036 or 024 for most things we don’t have many big trees just used for clearing trails I don’t want a race saw I just want some more reliable power out of it and I think I’ve seen that video before

 

[farmers036]

I’m building to work but really I use my 036 or 024 for most things we don’t have many big trees just used for clearing trails I don’t want a race saw I just want some more reliable power out of it and I think I’ve seen that video before

And I’m just wanting to run a 18” bar with a stihl rapid super that’s what I’ve got on it right now just want more power