Stihl 034 super air leak

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brandonstc6

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A guy responded my my Craigslist ad looking for non running chainsaws, with a stihl 034 super. He says it will crank and run but it dies when you turn it on it's side. Before I buy it I am going to pull the front off the muffler and make sure the piston isn't scored. I am suspicioning a bad crank seal. Is this correct? Can I just pull the seals out with a screw and drive in new ones? Or do I have to split the case?
Before I found out that it dies when you turn it on it's side, I offered $75 because he said it wasn't running right and I thought it needed carburetor work. Is that too much for this saw?
Thanks
Brandon
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The saw looks like it has mostly been collecting dust lately... During prolonged non-use the fuel line rubber tends to harden and shrink somewhat causing fuel to leak past the grommet when the saw is turned on its (right) side - the engine will now run too rich due to the excess fuel and die when idling.

Air leaks will usually cause the engine to race and starve...
 
I'd give $75 for that saw all day long. They are good runners and easy to work on. They also sell very well if your wanting to flip it.
 
If it has bad crank seals it's a possibility it will have a scarred piston also caused by the lean running. Still worth $75, fairly easy repair..

I told the guy that I would pull the front plate from the muffler and make sure the piston and cylinder were okay and he said that was fine.


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I told the guy that I would pull the front plate from the muffler and make sure the piston and cylinder were okay and he said that was fine.


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No need really. I just put an AM piston and cylinder in mine at the cost of around $20 or so. On a saw worth over $200 it's a small thing. Nice that he would allow it though.
 
No need really. I just put an AM piston and cylinder in mine at the cost of around $20 or so. On a saw worth over $200 it's a small thing. Nice that he would allow it though.

That's something to think about. I've never used a aftermarket top end before.


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SEAM: "During prolonged non-use the fuel line rubber tends to harden and shrink somewhat causing fuel to leak past the grommet when the saw is turned on its (right) side - the engine will now run too rich due to the excess fuel and die when idling."
Thanks for that little gem, I have a saw doing that and suspected a seal. I'll check that fuel line. I should replace it anyway...
 
While you are checking for leaks don't forget the plastic fuel inlet elbow on the carb. If this can be rotated at all it is cracked and must be replaced. Just fixed an 026 carb with this issue. I found out why there was gas running down the handle!
 
I will be meeting the guy tomorrow to buy the saw. Thanks to everyone for their help. I've been tinkering on saws for a while now but I still have questions for the experts sometimes. I will check everything mentioned above.


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A guy responded my my Craigslist ad looking for non running chainsaws, with a stihl 034 super. He says it will crank and run but it dies when you turn it on it's side. Before I buy it I am going to pull the front off the muffler and make sure the piston isn't scored. I am suspicioning a bad crank seal. Is this correct? Can I just pull the seals out with a screw and drive in new ones? Or do I have to split the case?
Before I found out that it dies when you turn it on it's side, I offered $75 because he said it wasn't running right and I thought it needed carburetor work. Is that too much for this saw?
Thanks
Brandon
a8dc7c01102465813cde54009c5167dd.jpg
1650c209d1a20fb84f92a9bcb1ab9938.jpg



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I traded a honda spree with title for a oh34 av super and love it 75 bucks you got a good saw just pop in new fuel line impulse line.
 
While you are checking for leaks don't forget the plastic fuel inlet elbow on the carb. If this can be rotated at all it is cracked and must be replaced. Just fixed an 026 carb with this issue. I found out why there was gas running down the handle!
Plastic elbows suck. why they do that I have no clue but a cheep fix is to use a brass tube feed a copper wire through it and bend it to 90 degrees around a bolt. Pull the wire out a cut brass tube short and jb weld it into carb body walbro had a few carbs that I had to do that with
 
Plastic elbows suck. why they do that I have no clue but a cheep fix is to use a brass tube feed a copper wire through it and bend it to 90 degrees around a bolt. Pull the wire out a cut brass tube short and jb weld it into carb body walbro had a few carbs that I had to do that with

I had a plastic elbow break off on a Poulan pro 455. Luckily I had a spare carburetor off a parts saw and I used it.


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I bought the saw. It looks good. The guy said that the fuel line was rotten and he replaced it and the saw still wouldn't run right. The saw would die out when he turned it on it's side to cut a tree. He said it wasn't running fast or anything. I am a thinking a carburetor rebuild should fix it.


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I didn't remove the air filter cover until after I bought it but I see that the guy didn't put the filter back on it when he was trying to get it running. How do I know if I need part number 1125 120 1610, 1125 120 1612 or 1125 120 1625? Also I pulled the front off the muffler and the piston looks mint.


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I ordered one from eBay, the saw was probably due for one anyway before the guy lost it


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I have put some thought into convertin to a uni on the oh34 av super cause they are not a compensator carb filter combo. And on a wet day I can plug my filter in 3 tanks
 
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