Stihl 034

[Baddboyy21]

I’m working on an 034. The original case needed new bearings. Made a lot of noise but spun freely.

I got a another used crankcase that had better bearings. The crank spun freely. I cleaned up the case and installed new OEM seals. I used the correct seal drivers for both sides. Now with the new seals the crank doesn’t spin as freely. Normally I’ve been able to spin the crank with my fingers during building. You can spin it with the flywheel on. Once the cylinder is on with the plug, it feels tight. The squish isn’t a problem. I checked that. Even with the recoil on, it’s hard to pull.

It’s very hard to turn with the spark plug in. Spins freely with the plug out.

I have no idea what’s going on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[s sidewall]

Was it tight after you put seals in or after the cylinder was installed?

Steve

 

[Baddboyy21]

After the seals.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rupedoggy]

If you push the seal in to far they will rub on the bearings. You didn't do that did you?

 

[Baddboyy21]

I used the Stihl seal drivers. I mean it’s possible. I didn’t think with the drivers you could drive too far though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jasonrkba]

I would imagine new seals can make it a little harder to turn as they are squeezing the crank, but just a little.

 

[s sidewall]

If it is real hard to turn, could be wrong seals, been there. Seals installed correctly with the correct seals, should be able to turn with no problem without having to turn it with the flywheel. Post a pic of the crank so we can see what the seals look like.

Steve

 

[Baddboyy21]

Unfortunately I don’t have the saw with me. This isn’t the first time I’ve installed seals. It is possible that they may be driven too deep. I did use the correct seal driver for the saw. The both drivers have a lip so that they aren’t driven too deep.

The seals came in the gasket/seals kit from Stihl. They are the correct part number on the package.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cuinrearview]

Things will loosen up with some run time.

 

[drf255]

Hope you oiled the seals.

Pretty common. I’ve had seals make a slick turning bottom end feel bound up before.

I’m missing something, what does “hard to turn over with plug in” mean? Is it just compression you are feeling, or does it feel like you are hitting the plug ground strap?

As long as it was fine until you put the seals in, I bet it will be ok.

 

[Baddboyy21]

Hope you oiled the seals.

Pretty common. I’ve had seals make a slick turning bottom end feel bound up before.

I’m missing something, what does “hard to turn over with plug in” mean? Is it just compression you are feeling, or does it feel like you are hitting the plug ground strap?

As long as it was fine until you put the seals in, I bet it will be ok.

I did put grease on the inner lip of both seals.

As far as “hard to pull”, it feels like a lot of compression, but more than my big saws. It’s like a combination of compression and tight seals

The piston isn’t hitting the ground strap of the plug. Checked that also.

I have another set of seals. I’d hate to waste them but I could take out the seals in the saw and replace with another new set.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[67L36Driver]

I’ve put together some 60(ish) cc saws that with assembly oil on the piston/rings/cylinder were in the ‘OMG how am I going to start this?’ range.

Run it fifteen minutes and see.

 

[Baddboyy21]

I’ve put together some 60(ish) cc saws that with assembly oil on the piston/rings/cylinder were in the ‘OMG how am I going to start this?’ range.

Run it fifteen minutes and see.

Good point! I did use a decent amount of assembly oil. I’ll most likely complete it and run it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk