Stihl 038 Super Carb Question

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I'm rebuilding a very early 038S with the old HK42 Tillotson carb. Disassembled and cleaned the carb and all components were remarkably fine. I don't know if this carb has been tinkered with, but there was evidence that Bubba and Junior had worked on the saw - the clutch cover washer was missing and I found it under the flywheel. When reassembled, the carb had a slow leak at 5 to 10 psi. It held 3 psi well, but I like my carbs to have rock solid pressure readings. I dunked it and bubbles came from within the venturi and none from the gaskets. I tried lengthening the metering spring slightly, but no change in the readings. The question is, does the end of the metering lever line up with the upper level (red arrow) or the lower level (blue arrow). I emailed Tillotson, but I'm impatient.1530050216480_IMG_20180626_165500_310.jpg
 
I'm rebuilding a very early 038S with the old HK42 Tillotson carb. Disassembled and cleaned the carb and all components were remarkably fine. I don't know if this carb has been tinkered with, but there was evidence that Bubba and Junior had worked on the saw - the clutch cover washer was missing and I found it under the flywheel. When reassembled, the carb had a slow leak at 5 to 10 psi. It held 3 psi well, but I like my carbs to have rock solid pressure readings. I dunked it and bubbles came from within the venturi and none from the gaskets. I tried lengthening the metering spring slightly, but no change in the readings. The question is, does the end of the metering lever line up with the upper level (red arrow) or the lower level (blue arrow). I emailed Tillotson, but I'm impatient.View attachment 659904

Flush with the red arrow area, commonly referred to as the fuel bowl.
 
Follow-up: Dunked carb again, pressurized, and bubbles came from venturi. I removed the end cover over the metering lever and disassembled components. The needle valve and gaskets and diaphragm were soaked in AT-205 Re-Seal for an hour. In this old Tillotson the needle valve seat is incorporated in a plastic "metering module body". I cut a Q-Tip in half, dipped the tip of the stick end in water and then in baking soda and twirled the stick end on the valve seat to remove any unseen crud. After reassembly, the pressure test was much improved - it took 45 minutes for the pressure to go from 3 psi to 2. I'm calling it good to go.
 

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