stihl 039 rebuild
- Thread starter chris ham
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fearofpavement
Trying them all
When I pressurize a saw engine, I spray soapy water all over it to see where any leakage is coming from. Often times they'll leak a little around the spark plug and or decomp valve. I'm not so worried about that but if there is any around a seal or mating surface, I'll redo it until there isn't.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Wonder if you have a bad tube of it. I've used more than one tube and I never had any that runny.
Also, are you trying to assemble the engine with the pan still in the saw housing? That can be done but I always remove the pan to get a better result.
yes,I assemble with the pan in the saw housing.I do not see how you can assemble it out without torqueing and untorqueing bolts.I would think this would cause a leak.Also I'm not sure it will go in the housing without the belly pan already in place.The threads are on the cylinder.The bolt just slides up and through the saw housing and belly pan and screws into the cylinder
i do not think I have any leaks except where I should not.Lord knows i had enough trouble sealing .O ring under the spark plug,pipe incarb boot,pipe plug decompression valve ,rubber behind muffler,zip tie on mity vac fitting
I have had good experience assembling clamshells with short bolts and letting the sealant dry a day or two. I do the initial (wet) torque at about 40 inch-lbs and the final torque after placing it in the case at 85 inch-lbs. The assembled engine stays together through the twists and turns needed to seat it in the case. In fact, if an engine has to be disassembled after drying, it takes a punch and some tapping, but i'm using Yamabond 4. Never had an air leak with this method.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
You can install a fully assembled engine into the saw's engine housing. I do it like that all the time. Never had an air leak on one that was properly sealed outside the saw. It's worth removing the bar stud to get that pan out of there and properly cleaned up, installed on the cylinder and tested before installation. When done, pull out the bolts, put it in the saw and reinstall the bolts. As long as you don't whack the pan, it won't cause a leak as the sealant is holding it together. It's a bit of a challenge to rotate the engine into position but it will go into place without putting pressure on anything.
You are a patient man.
got the dirko in.It worked,no leaks and saw is holding vacume .I am now ready to reassemble .There is a major difference in the motoseal and dirko.Dirko in the future for me .It stays where you put it.
Sawyer man88
ArboristSite Operative
Where do u get the dirko
Your Stihl dealer should have. I think I paid $15 for a tube last time.
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OOOOooooo.
Does it have any lubricant in it?
