agreed, isnt it easier to push with bodyweight than pull?
That's right - I'm not pulling or pushing, I just lean on the saw.
agreed, isnt it easier to push with bodyweight than pull?
This is easy in principle - just use a longer bar. There are positives and negatives. This has been discussed several times on this forum such as here.Does anyone set the alsakan samills so they take an angled cut through the trunks?
So theres a bark edge all the way around?
What do they use to guide the saw if they do as the "ladder guide" part would have to have "Rungs" missing.
Or cut into the outside of a bend in the tree which would give the same effect?
If so is there any pics showing how they do it?
This is easy in principle - just use a longer bar. There are positives and negatives. This has been discussed several times on this forum such as here.
Basically when the blade is angled significantly the cutters make more of a shaving than a chip, this is easier on the cutter and saw, but the length of the cut gets longer so there is no overall advantage.
If the angle is 90º ie cut completely parallel to the log then it can make noodles but you will be limited to the length of the bar a 8ft length log - there are not many saws around that will pull an 8 ft bar not to mention physically handling a mill with an 8 ft bar!
I have done this on a 1ft long log using my baby-milling-rig (see sig for link to that mill) which can hold a small log in any orientation while it is being cut. I also did it once using the BIL mill (with 42" bar) I put the 3 ft long log on the ground, placed two saw horses either side of and parallel to the log and used 2, 4 x 2" sitting on top of the saw horses as milling rails. It was a PITA getting the mill onto the rails but once I had done that it worked OK - lotsa noodles. Unfortunately the day I did this I did not have a camera with me. It did not cut as fast as I hoped it would, noodle clearance is an issue and I was not using skip chain. The other thing is holding such a short log in place while it is being cut is also not that easy, especially when cutting the lower half of the log. If I did this on a regular basis I would make a dedicated clamping device. I might do this again some time just so you can see all the noodles!
I don't think I explained that properly, I was meaning to cut through the log to give a bark edge all the was around, like the bit you answered below.
The section I was thinking about getting would be an elipse of wood, sutable for the back of a bench or something like it.
I understand that it will lose quite a bit of usable timber but if you get the wood for free it might be something nice to do.
It would be nice to see how that goes, thanks for taking the time to reply to my daft questions.
There IS a way of cutting diagonal sections from a log with an Alaskan, but it's a bit of a chore to set up (especially with bigger logs) and it's hard to get the log stable:
I understand that it renders most of the rest of the wood pretty useless but thought that on the4 vert odd occasion with the right bit of wood it might produce something very nice to look at.
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