*****Stihl 064 Spun Bearing? DoubleA you out there? Help with Stihl 064****

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aadoublea

aadoublea

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Hello All,

I picked up a Stihl 064 off Flea-Bay with the intentions of putting a big-bore kit on it. I paid $340 shipped for it to those wondering. The seller said the saw ran great, idled great and had no problems. I have never torn an engine apart before. I was planning on rebuilding this thing slowly with the help of a few buddies with small engine experience and of course this site.

Well I tore into it finally and after pulling off the cylinder and looking inside the crankcase I see a crack around the clutch side bearing. Flywheel side doesn't have this. I've searched all posts pertaining to 064's and spun bearings.

What I am wondering is: There has to be a way to re-affix the steel insert back into the magnesium case. I'll put a set screw in that sucker or jbweld it......;)

A guy named DoubleA(I use the same username as you, your name isn't Aaron Anderson is it?) stated in Brad Snelling's post about his build-up of two 064's that he had found a way to fix the spun bearing issue or rather steel insert coming loose from case issue.

Or does anybody have a 064 case with solid inserts I could buy?

I'd rather rig what I have and save a buck unless it won't hold together or I am just being to cheap.

I'd love some opinions from all you pro's out there!

I knew I should have just bought the ms660(25"bar) from my dealer for 1100 otd.

Thanks,
Aaron Anderson

Also I swear this saw is leaking bar oil out of the case gasket directly below the muffler causing the saw to smoke after the bar oil starts to burn. That's the original reason I started tearing it apart. I was going to tear it apart, split case, change bearings, seals, and gaskets and then throw big bore kit on her. Now I don't know what to do.


Thanks again!View attachment 208633View attachment 208634View attachment 208635
 
Last edited:
nmurph

nmurph

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Hello All,

I picked up a Stihl 064 off Flea-Bay with the intentions of putting a big-bore kit on it. I paid $340 shipped for it to those wondering. The seller said the saw ran great, idled great and had no problems. I have never torn an engine apart before. I was planning on rebuilding this thing slowly with the help of a few buddies with small engine experience and of course this site.

Well I tore into it finally and after pulling off the cylinder and looking inside the crankcase I see a crack around the clutch side bearing. Flywheel side doesn't have this. I've searched all posts pertaining to 064's and spun bearings.

What I am wondering is: There has to be a way to re-affix the steel insert back into the magnesium case. I'll put a set screw in that ##### or jbweld it......;)

A guy named DoubleA(I use the same username as you, your name isn't Aaron Anderson is it?) stated in Brad Snelling's post about his build-up of two 064's that he had found a way to fix the spun bearing issue or rather steel insert coming loose from case issue.

Or does anybody have a 064 case with solid inserts I could buy?

I'd rather rig what I have and save a buck unless it won't hold together or I am just being to cheap.

I'd love some opinions from all you pro's out there!

I knew I should have just bought the ms660(25"bar) from my dealer for 1100 otd.

Thanks,
Aaron Anderson

Also I swear this saw is leaking bar oil out of the case gasket directly below the muffler causing the saw to smoke after the bar oil starts to burn. That's the original reason I started tearing it apart. I was going to tear it apart, split case, change bearings, seals, and gaskets and then throw big bore kit on her. Now I don't know what to do.


Thanks again!View attachment 208633View attachment 208634View attachment 208635


DOOOD, you need to edit your post to remove the racial reference...I will then edit this post.
 
Last edited:
aadoublea

aadoublea

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Wow wow wow. I deleted the words immediately! Can't we just move on. Did NOT mean to ruffle anyone's feathers on this. I apologize. If I could just delete the whole post and start fresh I would(I tried, is there a way?).


Here I'll shorten my post up:

Anyone ever fix the steel inserts that have came loose from a 064 case?

Anyone have a 064 case they would part with?


nmurph if you could just delete your post quoting my original post i think we would be all set.

I came on here for help and now I think I screwed myself. I am on here just about everyday reading. This site has a lot of very knowledgeable and talented members and I didn't mean to offend any of you.

Can't an OP just delete the whole sha-bang?
 
Boleclimber

Boleclimber

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IMO you are better off buying a replacement case. Cases are machined with very high tolerances and match the other half. Machining a spun bearing case larger for a bushing is unlikely to keep the tolerances within spec unless you are or have access to a very good machinist.

The cost of having a talented machinist perform the work is likely the same or more than buying a used replacement case.
 
gink595

gink595

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Hello All,

I picked up a Stihl 064 off Flea-Bay with the intentions of putting a big-bore kit on it. I paid $340 shipped for it to those wondering. The seller said the saw ran great, idled great and had no problems. I have never torn an engine apart before. I was planning on rebuilding this thing slowly with the help of a few buddies with small engine experience and of course this site.

Well I tore into it finally and after pulling off the cylinder and looking inside the crankcase I see a crack around the clutch side bearing. Flywheel side doesn't have this. I've searched all posts pertaining to 064's and spun bearings.

What I am wondering is: There has to be a way to re-affix the steel insert back into the magnesium case. I'll put a set screw in that sucker or jbweld it......;)

A guy named DoubleA(I use the same username as you, your name isn't Aaron Anderson is it?) stated in Brad Snelling's post about his build-up of two 064's that he had found a way to fix the spun bearing issue or rather steel insert coming loose from case issue.

Or does anybody have a 064 case with solid inserts I could buy?

I'd rather rig what I have and save a buck unless it won't hold together or I am just being to cheap.

I'd love some opinions from all you pro's out there!

I knew I should have just bought the ms660(25"bar) from my dealer for 1100 otd.

Thanks,
Aaron Anderson

Also I swear this saw is leaking bar oil out of the case gasket directly below the muffler causing the saw to smoke after the bar oil starts to burn. That's the original reason I started tearing it apart. I was going to tear it apart, split case, change bearings, seals, and gaskets and then throw big bore kit on her. Now I don't know what to do.


Thanks again!View attachment 208633View attachment 208634View attachment 208635


Double A is Dennis Cahoon's son, look up the username Dennis Cahoon, you'll probably get the answer you need.
 
aadoublea

aadoublea

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IMO you are better off buying a replacement case. Cases are machined with very high tolerances and match the other half. Machining a spun bearing case larger for a bushing is unlikely to keep the tolerances within spec unless you are or have access to a very good machinist.

The cost of having a talented machinist perform the work is likely the same or more than buying a used replacement case.

Thanks for the info. I just am wondering why a guy can't remove the steel insert(since is already loose) and using some type of method(yet to be determined) to re-affix it to the case. I say this but I have no engine or machining experience whatsoever. Couldn't a guy jbweld it back into place or drill through the insert and the case and put a set screw or pin in there. I'm sure those are both terrible ideas when it comes to tolerances. I'm just trying to find a cheap way(still somewhat reliable) to fix this saw.

If anyone has a case however with sound inserts I'll buy it off them. I have paypal.


Thanks all,
AA
 

mp5n

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Messages
306
Location
Pennsylvania
Do yourself a favor and get another set of cases.

Think of it this way. How much will it cost for a set of new or good used cases compared to the cost of trying to fix these? Let’s say the fix looks OK, but fails down the road and takes out the fixed cases, crank and maybe the piston and cylinder. Not to mention if someone gets hurt. What will the cost be then?

I'm a Tool & Die Maker with a lot of experience with this type of work. If the bore for the seal in good then it wouldn't be too much of a problem to find the location of the bearing bore since they would share the same centerline. However if it's one of those arrangements where the seal is pressed into the bearing race then you'll need to determine the location of the bore in relation to the 2 dowel pins on the good case then locate the 2 dowels on the damaged side and place the bore in the correct location.

You’ll also need to remove the original insert, which may or may not need to be machined out. If it’s loose you’ll have a heck of a time trying to get it out as it’ll spin when you try to machine it out. Also by looking at your picture there appears to be a crack coming out radially from the bore. If this is true then you have a stress concentration which will be a source for a crack to start and have it go right through the case. This will need to be ground out, welded and machined prior to machining the new bore for the insert. You’ll then need to turn a new insert with the correct interference to press into the case. This insert will need to be manufactured with an undersize bore so that it can then be machined to the correct fit after it’s installed.

All of this would take me about 10 hours to do if everything went right, and I have all of the materials and equipment available to me. In the Philadelphia area you’re looking well over $100/hr if you find someone who knows what they’re doing and is willing to do the work. I’m also pretty sure they will offer no guarantees of this working.

Something else to think about is how much material is left on the other side of the damaged case? When these are cast they usually work with a rather thin wall to reduce weight and amount of material. You may break through the wall when machining the bore for the insert. In that case you’ll end up throwing the case away and wasting the money spent to attempt the fix.

If this is something you want to tackle yourself, then good luck and feel free to contact me if I can be of any assistance.

Best regards,
MP5N
 
THALL10326

THALL10326

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Messages
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..
Hello All,

I picked up a Stihl 064 off Flea-Bay with the intentions of putting a big-bore kit on it. I paid $340 shipped for it to those wondering. The seller said the saw ran great, idled great and had no problems. I have never torn an engine apart before. I was planning on rebuilding this thing slowly with the help of a few buddies with small engine experience and of course this site.

Well I tore into it finally and after pulling off the cylinder and looking inside the crankcase I see a crack around the clutch side bearing. Flywheel side doesn't have this. I've searched all posts pertaining to 064's and spun bearings.

What I am wondering is: There has to be a way to re-affix the steel insert back into the magnesium case. I'll put a set screw in that sucker or jbweld it......;)

A guy named DoubleA(I use the same username as you, your name isn't Aaron Anderson is it?) stated in Brad Snelling's post about his build-up of two 064's that he had found a way to fix the spun bearing issue or rather steel insert coming loose from case issue.

Or does anybody have a 064 case with solid inserts I could buy?

I'd rather rig what I have and save a buck unless it won't hold together or I am just being to cheap.

I'd love some opinions from all you pro's out there!

I knew I should have just bought the ms660(25"bar) from my dealer for 1100 otd.

Thanks,
Aaron Anderson

Also I swear this saw is leaking bar oil out of the case gasket directly below the muffler causing the saw to smoke after the bar oil starts to burn. That's the original reason I started tearing it apart. I was going to tear it apart, split case, change bearings, seals, and gaskets and then throw big bore kit on her. Now I don't know what to do.


Thanks again!View attachment 208633View attachment 208634View attachment 208635

I'd fix that alright, right back in the box to the guy that sold it to ya. He probably didn't know of the issue but thats a expensive issue you got there. If that bearing is spinning within the case that means the case hole for the bearing has enlarged. Some use Lock-tite around the bearing in such deals but its a shade tree fix, may last for awhile. Best thing to do is send that thing back where ya got it and be done with it. The best fix would be a new crankcase but thats alot of $$$$$$$$.
 
aadoublea

aadoublea

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If this is something you want to tackle yourself, then good luck and feel free to contact me if I can be of any assistance.

Best regards,
MP5N[/QUOTE]

That sealed the deal for me. I knew this case was a lost cause. Also I just scratched the paint, that is not a crack. I'll just have to keep an eye out for a case now. I'd still like to know how DoubleA fixed the steel insert from spinning.
Code:

Tonight I am going to try to spit the case. Like I said I've never even worked on a chainsaw before. I am going to make a flywheel puller and then work on splitting that case. I am pretty sure I can make the case splitting tools. Neither one of them seem that hard to make. I do have access to a welder and shop to do work in at least.

So what do you think this saw is worth like it sits? I bought the saw because it said no problems and ran great. Now I'm stuck trying to source parts and spend a ton of time trying to rebuild the darn thing. It seems like the seller should have to reimburse me some money. Maybe I'm crazy though. If I were the seller I would give a refund or take the saw back. I would feel too guilty in the first place to sell a saw that I knew had problems without telling the buyer of the problems.

Anyone want to rebuild this saw for me? If so pm me a price.

Thanks again,
Aaron
 
aadoublea

aadoublea

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I'd fix that alright, right back in the box to the guy that sold it to ya. He probably didn't know of the issue but thats a expensive issue you got there. If that bearing is spinning within the case that means the case hole for the bearing has enlarged. Some use Lock-tite around the bearing in such deals but its a shade tree fix, may last for awhile. Best thing to do is send that thing back where ya got it and be done with it. The best fix would be a new crankcase but thats alot of $$$$$$$$.

You hit the nail on the head. The more and more I dig into this saw the more I want to send it back. I hate having to eat 80 in shipping costs. Argggggg Ticks me off. I'm going to lose money no matter what. I wish I could just get a refund. Whats the saw worth? I paid 340 shipped. If I could get $100 back would I be doing alright?
 
THALL10326

THALL10326

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You hit the nail on the head. The more and more I dig into this saw the more I want to send it back. I hate having to eat 80 in shipping costs. Argggggg Ticks me off. I'm going to lose money no matter what. I wish I could just get a refund. Whats the saw worth? I paid 340 shipped. If I could get $100 back would I be doing alright?

The price wasn't bad but the saw is, thats the problem. I just sold a prime 064 for 600.00 last week. Was like new however. Yours isn't worth anything with the problems it has, if you sold it honestly and spoke of its problems I don't know of anyone that would want it. Shop around for a old case somewhere and then you got a awesome project to work on. 64's are running saws. Time you get it done you'll be able to fix most any saw that comes along, that in itself may be worth more than the saw itself..
 
jus2fat

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You hit the nail on the head. The more and more I dig into this saw the more I want to send it back. I hate having to eat 80 in shipping costs. Argggggg Ticks me off. I'm going to lose money no matter what. I wish I could just get a refund. Whats the saw worth? I paid 340 shipped. If I could get $100 back would I be doing alright?
If the "item" is NOT as described...you first contact the seller telling WHY you are unhappy with
your purchase...(in your case...the problems you're experiencing were NOT in the description)

Maybe the seller will offer to return you $340 upon arrival of the saw...(your shipping expense)

If NOT...then you open a "dispute"...BUT...you must contact the seller first..!!!

You must open the dispute within 45 days of making payment...later than that...you're toast..!!

You should get your total $340 back.

EDIT: You said $340 incl. shipping. You should deduct the original shipping cost.
In other words...you're likely gonna eat the shipping costs BOTH ways..!!

Hope this helps..!!
:cheers:
J2F
 
Last edited:
aadoublea

aadoublea

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
Messages
113
Location
michigan
If the "item" is NOT as described...you first contact the seller telling WHY you are unhappy with
your purchase...(in your case...the problems you're experiencing were NOT in the description)

Maybe the seller will offer to return you $340 upon arrival of the saw...(you shipping expense)

If NOT...then you open a "dispute"...BUT...you must contact the seller first..!!!

You must open the dispute within 45 days of making payment...later than that...you're toast..!!

You should get your total $340 back.

Hope this helps..!!
:cheers:
J2F

The day the saw arrived I e-mailed him about the problems I'd found(case oil leak).

I may have left a little out of the story. I've already recieved a $50 refund from the seller. I asked for $50 to help with the cost of splitting the case to re-gasket it. I know it will be more expensive than $50 but I wanted to be fair. But now that the case is shot its a whole different story.

And I already bought a brand new Stihl 25"bar with three chains........

I'm an idiot.




Jacob J.

I'll look and see if I have a set of case halves this afternoon. I probably do.

Was this saw sold as a runner or as a running parts saw?



Yes this saw was sold as a runner. No where in the auction were the words "parts saw".

The seller stated in the auction and this is word for word: "this is a stihl 064av power head, works great, lot of power, idles well, good luck and thank you."


That is all the auction said. It was a BIN for $350 and I jumped on it. Me and my idiot jumping!

So if you have a case for me that would solve one problem!!!!!!!! I'll get my paypal account warmed up.
 
aadoublea

aadoublea

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EDIT: You said $340 incl. shipping. You should deduct the original shipping cost.
In other words...you're likely gonna eat the shipping costs BOTH ways..!!

That is exactly why I would just like to get a refund on this saw instead of returning it. $80 is a LOT of money to lose out on for shipping. Sooner or later a case will come up and I can get this baby going again. The more I read PioneerGuy, BSnelling, Riverrat, Lakeside, JockeyDuece, and many many other build-up threads I think I can slowly do this mostly myself.

It will be like the time I put a JDM B18c motor in my 98 civic. Took a long time because I'd never did a motor swap but eventually I got her in there and running good. Then I put a JRSC(Jackson Racing Supercharger) on her without correcting the high egts and lean afr's and spun a bearing in that!! Boy that car was fun to drive.
 
jus2fat

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EDIT: You said $340 incl. shipping. You should deduct the original shipping cost.
In other words...you're likely gonna eat the shipping costs BOTH ways..!!


That is exactly why I would just like to get a refund on this saw instead of returning it. $80 is a LOT of money to lose out on for shipping. Sooner or later a case will come up and I can get this baby going again. The more I read PioneerGuy, BSnelling, Riverrat, Lakeside, JockeyDuece, and many many other build-up threads I think I can slowly do this mostly myself.
I totally understand..!!! Hope the seller will give more $$ refund.

I wish you well in that regard...and finding a case for a reasonable price..!!!
:cheers:
J2F
 
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