Stihl 088 timing

[Kebo57]

Hi I’ve got this 088 that I’ve gone through it has a new crank gasket as was supposed to be passing chain oil in t’ crank case but couldn’t any problems with the old gasket anyway light stoning and new gasket fitted & new rings.
My problem is starting I had the saw going twice from cold after about 100 pulls
It ran well ticked over at very low revs stopped restarted first pull.
It’s sheered the flywheel key so made a new key the taper on crank is good fitted the best passing decomp valve I had about me
It’s trying to rip the pull out of my hand any help would be greatly appreciated I was wondering if the plastic part of the flywheel that holds the magnets had rotated and moved the timing
I’ve added 2 pic at TDC & one shows magnet position markings

 

[Kebo57]

This pic is where the crank keyway position at tdc

 

[Kebo57]

Just checked the compression it’s about 120 psi but it feels like 200+ when you pull it over so took head off there is a witness mark ring on piston and on there head it’s a farmertech barrel would it be possible for the piston to top out in the barrel see pic

 

[Kebo57]

I’ve made another gasket 0.028” fitted old one as well so that’s two gaskets, still has that metallic crack when you pull it over but I got it going again by a splash of neat fuel decomp shut ran it for 10 mins revs and tick over like it should it restarts with decomp closed,
to start it you have to pull like your going to get £100 if you get it going
I read about the starting difficulties relating to a big saw.. pull just after the compression
I’ll have another go when forearms and fingers have recovered
It’s a brute I’ve only had 460 up to now

 

[Kebo57]

Well.. got it going again
There is a nack to starting it
No more than three pulls
on full choke which should get the crack and handle ripped almost out of your hand
All pulls just after compression
Then drop on to to fast idle
(then grow some balls)
Pull after compression hard will start on second third pull

I need a bar and chain now
Looks like it has bigger collar screws so won’t take a 25” bar
Any help with bar info would be greatly appreciated
Thanks

 

[Sierra_rider]

Well.. got it going again
There is a nack to starting it
No more than three pulls
on full choke which should get the crack and handle ripped almost out of your hand
All pulls just after compression
Then drop on to to fast idle
(then grow some balls)
Pull after compression hard will start on second third pull

I need a bar and chain now
Looks like it has bigger collar screws so won’t take a 25” bar
Any help with bar info would be greatly appreciated
Thanks

There is a special technique to starting the big saws, I rest the end of the bar over a log and drop start my 880. The "safe" methods to starting saws don't work on these lol.

As far as the bar, it's the large mount. Same bar pattern as the 881, 070, 090, etc. Stihl calls it the 3002 mount, I believe it's the D031 in Oregon nomenclature, but don't quote me on that. I don't know if Stihl makes a 25" bar with this mount, I know that Oregon does.

Also, unless you change the nose sprocket, any large mount Stihl bar is going to come set up for .404 pitch chain. So you'll need .404 chain and a rim sprocket.

 

[Kebo57]

Thanks for the info
I watched a YouTube video of a girl starting a 880 and one about compression testing by saw hanging on pull cord and slowly dropping to floor mine dropped exactly the same, so no over compression my elasto handle is worn so I was missing 3” at the beginning of the pull so removed the lug on the cord & said to myself this saw can’t not start, I tried the normal way decomp open full choke 3 pulls then fast idle & drop started it.
The saw has a 404 rim sprocket so I’ve ordered a new 41” bar & a 404 chain as I bought it as spare repairs of eBay with no bar & chain

 

[scruffy808]

Hi I’ve got this 088 that I’ve gone through it has a new crank gasket as was supposed to be passing chain oil in t’ crank case but couldn’t any problems with the old gasket anyway light stoning and new gasket fitted & new rings.
My problem is starting I had the saw going twice from cold after about 100 pulls
It ran well ticked over at very low revs stopped restarted first pull.
It’s sheered the flywheel key so made a new key the taper on crank is good fitted the best passing decomp valve I had about me
It’s trying to rip the pull out of my hand any help would be greatly appreciated I was wondering if the plastic part of the flywheel that holds the magnets had rotated and moved the timing
I’ve added 2 pic at TDC & one shows magnet position markings

Have a look at my thread ""Stihls saws kickback on starting- might help". You can run without the woodruff key if the crank and flywheel tapers are in good order. The key only helps get timing correct.

 

[scruffy808]

I’ve made another gasket 0.028” fitted old one as well so that’s two gaskets, still has that metallic crack when you pull it over but I got it going again by a splash of neat fuel decomp shut ran it for 10 mins revs and tick over like it should it restarts with decomp closed,
to start it you have to pull like your going to get £100 if you get it going
I read about the starting difficulties relating to a big saw.. pull just after the compression
I’ll have another go when forearms and fingers have recovered
It’s a brute I’ve only had 460 up to now

Mate have a look at my post Stihl daws kickback on starting. It all is about the ignition timing and tricks O used to help the saws trying to pull the rope off your shoulder!!