fearofpavement
Trying them all
That sorta depends, doesn't it?
stihl 390 aghhh!!!
- Thread starter Klayton
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Bilge Rat LT 20
ArboristSite Operative
A tool that we found to be useful on dirtbikes years ago was a hand impact.
It will break loose most bolts without stripping the head or wringing them off.
It is used with a hammer so no air needed.
It is more controllable than an impact wrench on smaller stuff and cheaper than the good battery powered ones.
I have many air tools including a low power impact that was used on aircraft. I still grab the hand impact from time to time when a stubborn bolt resists my authority. Outboards used in salt are the worst offenders.
It will break loose most bolts without stripping the head or wringing them off.
It is used with a hammer so no air needed.
It is more controllable than an impact wrench on smaller stuff and cheaper than the good battery powered ones.
I have many air tools including a low power impact that was used on aircraft. I still grab the hand impact from time to time when a stubborn bolt resists my authority. Outboards used in salt are the worst offenders.
ok got my brothers impact and it did not phase the clutch with 150psi so we heated it and used impact and heated and used impact...... got it off finally but the impact broke the oiler so now another 20$ or so.... but i think i will go the hutzl route and see what happens
STIHLTHEDEERE
This is Koty
. They are anything but complex. Any Stihl dealer will work on them. Once you have done one they are a piece of cake. I would say the best two things to have when tackling one of these saws for the first time is..........a good set of tools and patients. These are very well built firewood saws, run well with a proper tune, and last forever if used as intended.
i had a o29 super a few years ago , wasn't a bad saw when it ran though certainly nothing special either.
it locked up in a big oak top. i never even tried to fix it. i gave it to a stihl dealer after he made me a deal on a ms440.
the 029 was clean and newish sorta . i kind of wish i had kept it now--but back them i don't think hudzl or west machinery was around for one of those $90 long-blocks.
one of those china doll engines would have fixed it back to near new condition--cheap.
it locked up in a big oak top. i never even tried to fix it. i gave it to a stihl dealer after he made me a deal on a ms440.
the 029 was clean and newish sorta . i kind of wish i had kept it now--but back them i don't think hudzl or west machinery was around for one of those $90 long-blocks.
one of those china doll engines would have fixed it back to near new condition--cheap.
This thread cracks me up! The 1127 series saws are tougher than a Lego project, but that's about it. I'm far from being a professional . . . or even a trained technician, and I've completely rebuilt dozens of them with little to no issue. I'd rebuild them all day long compared to a 441. Just finished an MS310 that got a new piston & cylinder - piece of cake as ususal. I use quality tools and I've never broken a torx driver, nor have I ever used anything other than a T-handle to remove the cylinder mounting bolts. I have less than gorilla strength, for the record - probably closer to adolescent howler monkey strength if I had to guess. I've never had an issue getting a clutch off either. I used the old rope trick for a long time, then switched to plastic piston stops, and as of late I've been using an impact.
How on earth do you screw up an oil pump when removing a clutch? For the life of me I can't wrap my simple mind around that...
My point here is simply that perhaps a person should actually understand what they're working on and what it takes to properly do the job before a bunch of assumptions and blanket statements are made. A little knowledge and quality tools goes a long way.
How on earth do you screw up an oil pump when removing a clutch? For the life of me I can't wrap my simple mind around that...
My point here is simply that perhaps a person should actually understand what they're working on and what it takes to properly do the job before a bunch of assumptions and blanket statements are made. A little knowledge and quality tools goes a long way.
towingace
ArboristSite Guru
The first clamshell I rebuilt was my 290. First off, I had read about clamshells, but didn't really know what that meant. So, I'm pulling the cylinder off, and wondering why the heck the bolts are in the bottom of the case. My biggest surprise was, when the cylinder came off & I had a crankshaft staring me in the face! After a WTF moment, I proceeded to remove the clutch & flywheel, which obviously, should have been done first. I wrapped a shop rag around the crank/rod/piston and held on tight with one hand & used a rattle gun & puller in the other hand & apart it came. When ya learn the hard way, it seems to sink in deeper.
P.S. Oh yeah, it WAS loctited.
P.S. Oh yeah, it WAS loctited.
jughead500
Sasquatch
If it had been rebuilt before then more than likely the previous owner or other ham fisted mechanic probably really boogered the threads going into the cylinder.i have rebuilt several 1127's and they just aren't my thing.but anyway the last one i rebuilt was for a buddy and i got a stihl cylinder for it.it comes with new cylinder bolts that have to be used to carefully rethread the holes in the cylinder.i used the old bolts from the old cylinder to do this to save from stessing or boogering the new ones up.in your case sounds like they boogered things up and used loctite as a lube.
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've rebuilt hundreds of 1127 series saws. They are not the easiest to work on in the Stihl realm (but that is relative to a persons perspective). Sometimes a "bad apple" as the encounter the OP is having will cause one to form opinions about the particular saw or series. The screws that go into the cylinder are "self tapping" unless Stihl has changed them in the last few years. As for the clutch the threads are left handed threads. If you don't know that at first approach it would be easy to over tighten the clutch before the actual proper "left handed" removal takes place. This could have added to your problem.
I do remember the first one I disassembled. I am thankful I had a gracious friend who answered my questions kindly and gave me insight. There is no reason why you can't rebuild this saw with the proper input from the site. As for the oil pump -- chalk that one up for experience and learn from it. Usually you can find a good used one on Fleabay with the worm gear at a bargain. I've never personally used a chinese one so I can't make a recommendation there. Just keep posting, there are some level headed guys here that won't jump you like a woman trying to get in Walmart at 5:00 am on Black Friday. I believe you can find the help you need.
I do remember the first one I disassembled. I am thankful I had a gracious friend who answered my questions kindly and gave me insight. There is no reason why you can't rebuild this saw with the proper input from the site. As for the oil pump -- chalk that one up for experience and learn from it. Usually you can find a good used one on Fleabay with the worm gear at a bargain. I've never personally used a chinese one so I can't make a recommendation there. Just keep posting, there are some level headed guys here that won't jump you like a woman trying to get in Walmart at 5:00 am on Black Friday. I believe you can find the help you need.
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Yeah, I can understand now, trying to remove the clutch "after" grinding the cylinder bolt heads off and all of that metal flopping about, you probably have some of your blood strewn about as well.... Yeah, there were some great pictorial threads here on dis-assembling one of these beasts.....
For everyone's future reference, the service manual describes the rebuild process step-by-step. Additionally, I did a quick writeup for a new member once that I would be happy to email to anyone as well...
My Stihl dealer mechanic showed me a dozen 290's, 310's, and 390's that had all been straight gassed. He cannot even get to half of them because they all have to be taken apart to the gills. I offered to help, but he said "No, I'll just keep plugging it out."
Owners do not even read the owner's manual. They just dump straight gas into the saw's fuel tank and run it.
Owners do not even read the owner's manual. They just dump straight gas into the saw's fuel tank and run it.
Bilge Rat LT 20
ArboristSite Operative
People need to use a tap to clean up threads, it has flutes for chip clearence.
Threadlocker, oil, and any other lube does just that, lube the threads. This reduces the friction between the threads. When torque is applied you need to reduce the amount because torque numbers are usually for dry fit.
More force is being applied to the bolt than the wrench is reading due to the reduced friction.
You are trying to stretch the bolt to get it to hold under load, vibration. Too much torque distorts the bolt. it won't spring back and tends to gall the threads.
We never reused head or crank bolts on motors, they have done their job. That pinion nut on the rear end doesn't get reused either.
Long story short, understand your fasteners. Depending on magic goop is overrated.
Threadlocker, oil, and any other lube does just that, lube the threads. This reduces the friction between the threads. When torque is applied you need to reduce the amount because torque numbers are usually for dry fit.
More force is being applied to the bolt than the wrench is reading due to the reduced friction.
You are trying to stretch the bolt to get it to hold under load, vibration. Too much torque distorts the bolt. it won't spring back and tends to gall the threads.
We never reused head or crank bolts on motors, they have done their job. That pinion nut on the rear end doesn't get reused either.
Long story short, understand your fasteners. Depending on magic goop is overrated.
