There isn’t a chance in this world that saw had straight gas unless the dealer did something that stupid while “fixing” it one of the times they had it. This saw was barely run, and only had premix 50-1 which is what the manual called for.
The images weren’t visible in the links. Do you recommend a pressure test kit?
So in my opinion that severe of scoring and the dryness of that piston is more of the most recent catastrophic failure. I would be looking at the carb boot for a tear possibly? Also wonder if the genius at the dealer retuned the carb and leaned the hell out of it. Either way your out of warranty and I'd pull the carb limiters and see where the screws are at (do you know how to do this?).
I bought a Husqvarna 455 so I might just strip the MS291 down, and sell what I can, and never buy Stihl again. I appreciate everyone’s efforts on this site helping me (or trying to). If the Stihl reps that I interacted with acted like that maybe I wouldn’t be as pissed.
Just to be clear I would be selling the bar, non-engine components, etc. Obviously, nothing that could be damaged... Or I might just throw it on eBay as a scored piston parts saw...
455 is a nice saw. I would use the 40:1 mix just for some extra lube. As for the Stihl rep, I get why they said what they said and I believe it was NOT just the damage but the time. It was out of warranty and after that time frame and the damage at hand they were never gonna do anything for it. I would be angrier with the dealer, they are the ones who couldnt properly diagnose the on going issue from the start. Hate to say it but Husky will do the same thing im sure if all the circumstances were the same. Good luck with your new saw. Just sell the old one complete and be done with it.
West041, I have a feeling it is not the sap. The same thing happened to me after the first weekend with the new saw, Stihl MS 271. It was last fall and I was running the gas out of it to store it up for the winter. It was sitting and idling and only running about 3 to 5 min (I had walked away to fumble around in the garage) and when I glanced at the saw it was smoking like crazy at the bar. Took it into the dealer and they said I left the chain brake on while revving it. I told them it was on idle and when I looked in the manual it specifically said chain brake can be engaged on idle. Anyway, it melted and I lost the pins, the oil pump melted to the housing, the housing plastic was melted and I can't seem to find a replacement housing as of yet. I have rebuilt two chainsaws since and before I attempted to fix this one. Unless I find a new housing (I believe it includes the oil reservoir as well) then I am stuck with using this as spare parts and buy another new chainsaw. I was out $400 plus, stihl wouldn't cover it and I really don't think my dealer did much at all to fight for my warranty. I will never go back to that dealer for any repair work. I will not buy another Stihl unless I hear they addressed this issue. I am doing all small engine repair myself now that I feel I was taken to the cleaners on this one. It is very frustrating and I firmly believe there is a design flaw in these new Stihls.
No reason to never buy another Stihl again, just be careful which model of Stihl you buy. Some of the old saws that end in an even number are okay, like the 026, 044, 660 etc. are fine saws...I probably wouldn't take a 291 if someone were to give me one...
thank you, yes, there seems to be a flaw in the writing there. However, the gas never got far enough down to even be close to revving up the idle. The idle never made a difference in sound to my ears, such as an increase in idle from whence it began. Again I fumbled around for 3-5 min. I do not blame me, so why wouldn't it be stihl? And to remphasize, the manual states that the chain break can be engaged on idle. Nowhere does it say that it can idle for only a certain amount of time. Although, I will keep your comment in the back of my mind for future operations.
thank you. Maybe there is something I do not understand in your statement, but not sure how I would have had it on throttle lock and think it was idle. This was a new machine and neither the throttle trigger or the lock was sticking. I certainly understand that the chain brake can be engaged anytime; and I understand why it shouldn't be when pulling the trigger. Unless the manufacturer had the idle set too high, I don't see how this could have happened. And no, at the time I had not taken the cover off to see if there was an issue with the throttle nor would I have any reason to adjust the idle.
I don't think the brake was on,just leaning on to much. You can do it with an 041 not the clamshell's. I have seen this many times. Yeah it will a new seal
Yes
