Oil tank is sealed and separate
stihl ms180 smoke bomb
- Thread starter Robin Rowley
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Oil tank is sealed and separate
Picture of the plug in question
If the plug is missing, would the sae run properly? The OP says saw is running fine, except for the smoke
If the plug is missing, would the sae run properly? The OP says saw is running fine, except for the smoke
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Yes, I try to be somewhat precise. Likely why I always ask for pics, because we are always going on scant information.
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That would only produce an oil leak behind the muffler.
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So the causes are narrowed a bit. Could be Too much oil in the mix. Or Real dirty air filter. Or saw running very rich air/fuel wise.
Which is why I suggested the loose welch plug possibility. I have even seen the layer of sealant broke loose and causing trouble. The saw is non- adjustable.
Which is why I suggested the loose welch plug possibility. I have even seen the layer of sealant broke loose and causing trouble. The saw is non- adjustable.
The OP removed bar and chain dumps oul, runs it and no smoking. How does oil travel to the casting pipe and out?
I think that molded tube runs up from the oil pump and turns 90 degrees to feed oil to the chain. The plug is there to be able to clean that tube if it ever becomes clogged. If the orange plug ever comes out, then bar oil can be sprayed onto the hot muffler sending dark blue smoke out like crazy.
The OP stated that when he drained the bar oil the smoke stopped. I'll bet a dollar to doughnuts that if the OP removes the muffler he'll find a sloppy black mess of bar oil on the case around the muffler and a missing orange plug.
It'll only take 3 minutes and a T-27 wrench to find out.
The OP stated that when he drained the bar oil the smoke stopped. I'll bet a dollar to doughnuts that if the OP removes the muffler he'll find a sloppy black mess of bar oil on the case around the muffler and a missing orange plug.
It'll only take 3 minutes and a T-27 wrench to find out.
Robin Rowley
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Ok, a couple of pics. I think the orange plug at the lower left is the one where the passage in question is? It looks fine. Also this is the oil I'm using at 50:1. I can get non ethanol 93 octane where I live so that's what I always use for premix. Is this much oil around the exhaust port normal? Is the muffler not supposed to seal any better?
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Looks a little more oily than mine but not too much.
I'd change mix brand, clean muffler out of oil residue.
I'd change mix brand, clean muffler out of oil residue.
That looks like unburnt oil, meaning that it didn't go through the combustion process. The only way that could happen in a clamshell engine is from the bar oil.
I think you got something going on with the bar oil tank/line/delivery system. If you could find some off-color Bar oil ( I know some stuff looks red like ATF fluid) I'd try to run that a little bit and then see if the oil around the muffler takes on a different color.
If nothing else, use some vegetable oil as bar oil for a little bit. If it starts making you hungry because it smells like a taco truck, well then, you've found your problem. LOL
I'm convinced you have an issue with the Bar oil system. Possibly a cracked tank or the plug is bypassing.
There's nothing wrong with that oil mixed at 50:1 with non ethanol 93 octane gas. You're basically making your own Motomix.
Good luck and keep us informed!
I think you got something going on with the bar oil tank/line/delivery system. If you could find some off-color Bar oil ( I know some stuff looks red like ATF fluid) I'd try to run that a little bit and then see if the oil around the muffler takes on a different color.
If nothing else, use some vegetable oil as bar oil for a little bit. If it starts making you hungry because it smells like a taco truck, well then, you've found your problem. LOL
I'm convinced you have an issue with the Bar oil system. Possibly a cracked tank or the plug is bypassing.
There's nothing wrong with that oil mixed at 50:1 with non ethanol 93 octane gas. You're basically making your own Motomix.
Good luck and keep us informed!
camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
I noticed a lot of unburnt oil when I was running Stihl mix btw I’d switch to a different oil Stihl oil is junk and don’t provide the protection that any 2 stroke equipment needs.
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Remove the air filter and look on the bottom of it.
Does the muffler have a gasket between it and the exhaust port? I've got a 170 that had no gasket and the area behind the muffler was getting quite oily from exhaust oil. I installed a muffler gasket and that problem went away. Perhaps try cleaning up the saw, installing a muffler gasket, and then running it for a while to help you determine if the mess is exhaust oil or coming from a bar oil leak somewhere.
get a new carb its not worth fiddling with those if it has issues, their under 20 bucks new from stihl. That cylinder is saturated with oil inside and out. Pull the orange plug and block the hole with a screw dipped in rtv and check the bar oil pump for cracks and shaft wear. Those oil pumps are known to fail, clean the case and cylinder and run the saw for short intervals without the bar with atf for bar oil to find the leak.
Dump fuel in a glass jar. Can you see through it? Dirt or water? Is the plug black? Is the bottom side of the air filter clean? Disassemble the carb and look for missing welch plugs, corrosion, dirt. In a shop, the first thing to do is see if the saw can be held up by the starter handle. If so, start it. Look beside the muffler and the bar side of the crancase when revved up . Is there oil coming out of the hole where the plugged passage is? Then report back.
These guys are a trouble shooting encyclopedia.
Not sure if simple stuff covered but.
How many ozs of oil are you mixing to how many gallons of gasoline?
Never mind, I see emptying the bar oil tank stops the smoke, doh.
Not sure if simple stuff covered but.
How many ozs of oil are you mixing to how many gallons of gasoline?
Never mind, I see emptying the bar oil tank stops the smoke, doh.
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how could that be possible?
Bill G
ArboristSite King
I wonder if everyone skipped over the first sentence of the first post.
His wife bought it for him last Christmas. Assuming it was bought in the last half of November or later it still has not even been a year. Even if she bought it a bit earlier it should still be under warranty as it should have a 2 year homeowner warranty. Why should he tear into the saw when it is under warranty. Take it back to the dealer it was bought from and have them diagnose and fix it.
Yep, warranty is one of the FIRST things I consider and one of the first things I ask if someone wants me to work on so called new eq. How old is your eq and are YOU the original owner. Sometime though new is a piece of vintage 30 year eq and it just NEW to them.
I quite often for my own new eq I label a piece of eq as to when the warranty expires (or label the owners manual with such and attach the purchase receipt as indicated in the owners manual the the requirements such as receipts, registering, etc.
Several companies (appears most) hope you lose your receipts or not register the eq so they can easily VOID a warranty and not have to put up with your whining/moaning and crying.
I quite often for my own new eq I label a piece of eq as to when the warranty expires (or label the owners manual with such and attach the purchase receipt as indicated in the owners manual the the requirements such as receipts, registering, etc.
Several companies (appears most) hope you lose your receipts or not register the eq so they can easily VOID a warranty and not have to put up with your whining/moaning and crying.
