Keep talking my friend, its thinking like that what gets people hurt. Yes a narrow tip bar WILL be better in that situation. Don't forget Stihl's 20 inch bar with the huge wide 13 tooth sprocket nose is bigger then the old 2 7/8" full roller noses.[Let me educate you, the bigger the nose radius the more kickback injury is produced.] And yes greenhorns have to learn how to use a saw too, and also to the arborist who is trying to get that last tree down quickly at the end of a long day because he has the road blocked off.
You are not a pro. Don't go blabbing your dumb azz mouth about murphy and Darwin to Racerboy 832 or other newbies here, what kind of respect is that? Think about the stupid advice your giving. The kids running a 660 with a 20"/13 tooth nose. You know windthrown Murphy and Darwins natural selection will take care of you, you fit the mold perfect.
You are reverting to calling me names now? How special.
But I am not a pro? :monkey:
You mean that people do not pay me for tree service? :monkey:
You mean I have never logged in the woods :monkey:
You mean I do not have certificates in ornamental horticulture and silviculture? :monkey:
You mean I have never had a landscaping and tree business? :monkey:
Gee, I must have missed something there. Considering that you do not know jack about what I do or have done, and you call me a dumb ass? Oh yah, that's right. You are the omni super stud of tree falling. You are the guy that claims to have dropped two million trees. I showed that mathmatically that is impossible. Tell us more lies about how many trees you have felled. Are you up to three million yet?
Again I will state here that if you are relying on a green bar to save your weenie and tired greenhorns, then you are in for a world of hurt. If you are trying to protect the newbies here listening to your tall tales, well, good luck there bubba. The kickback differential between the business end of yellow and green bars is not going to make that much of a difference, and it is entirely dependant on the situation and the saws being used. Yes, I know why the kick is greater on the wider nose bar; it is becasue the contact point at the tip is wider and thus has more grip in the wood and more potential to move upward toward you. But that is completely dependant on the saws, chains, and other factors. I have done numerous tests with that in the woods... yah, out in the woods. Making money. With chainsaws.
Lets look at other factors here. Say that you have a nice and "safe"
(safe is relative here, my claim is that yellow and green bars are just as potentially leathal) green weenie 20 inch bar on a 460 chainsaw. Now, compare that to a big bad evil yellow 20 inch bar on a 361. Now which is the 'safer' bar? Or say that you have two 361s, and on the one you have a yellow 20 inch bar, and on the other you have a green 20 inch bar. But on the yellow bar you have full skip chain, and on the green one out have full comp. Now which bar is really safer? Or, lets compare my Olympyk 254 running against one of my 361s with the same 20 inch green bar and same chain? The Olympyk does not have a chainbrake, and no means of stopping the chain in a kickback situation. Is the green bar 'safer' in that situation? I would say no.
Also if you are rushing a job chainsawing a tree becasue you have traffic stopped, then you should not be up there with a saw. Talk about stupid advice.
