struggling to solve issue

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If you learn anything here, learn that an expensive ignition coil is rarely ever an issue. Less than 1% of saws that come to my shop have an ignition problem resulting in replacement of the module.
 
If you learn anything here, learn that an expensive ignition coil is rarely ever an issue. Less than 1% of saws that come to my shop have an ignition problem resulting in replacement of the module.
i read to much/ i was on here a couple weeks ago and alot of threads related to my problem said ignition coil, in a hurry to get my saw up and running and back in the wood i bought it, you are right lesson learned, at least its not a $10,000 car that won't run right, i am putting saw back together and try your settings on H and L
 
To start my saws when hot I either set the throttle on fast idle on most of my saws by putting the choke on and and taking the choke off in order to set a fast idle or by holding the throttle trigger down while setting the choke, then let go of the throttle trigger and then taking the choke off thereby leaving the saw on fast idle.

Some old saws you need to hold the trigger and then hold "in" the fast idle button while letting off the trigger.

The saw will rarely start when hot with the throttle closed.
 
i read to much/ i was on here a couple weeks ago and alot of threads related to my problem said ignition coil, in a hurry to get my saw up and running and back in the wood i bought it, you are right lesson learned, at least its not a $10,000 car that won't run right, i am putting saw back together and try your settings on H and L
I've been down the same road. We learn from experience and we aren't born knowing everything :D
 
I've been down the same road. We learn from experience and we aren't born knowing everything :D
put saw back together took your advice/ 3 turns on H, 1 1/4 on L, saws starts on half pull and idles perfect/ throttle response weak and misses no power in cut, this is where i get lost if i keep turning H out she runs good then won't start when warm.
 
To start my saws when hot I either set the throttle on fast idle on most of my saws by putting the choke on and and taking the choke off in order to set a fast idle or by holding the throttle trigger down while setting the choke, the let go of the throttle trigger and then taking the choke off thereby leaving the saw on fast idle.

Some old saw you need to hold the trigger and then hold "in" the fast idle button while letting off the trigger.

The saw will rarely start when hot with the throttle closed.
To start my saws when hot I either set the throttle on fast idle on most of my saws by putting the choke on and and taking the choke off in order to set a fast idle or by holding the throttle trigger down while setting the choke, the let go of the throttle trigger and then taking the choke off thereby leaving the saw on fast idle.

Some old saw you need to hold the trigger and then hold "in" the fast idle button while letting off the trigger.

The saw will rarely start when hot with the throttle closed.
I have tried setting fast idle and just on so i don't flood engine, this saw is less than year old, was a dealer demo when i bought it, was told it had never been in the woods, right now i have it set on 3 turns on H and 1 1/4 on L starts and idles well but no power in cut, this is scenerio i keep repeating, if i get H up to about 4 turns out it runs strong but starting becomes an issue, i have a cs 400 echo that seems bomb proof compared to my big saw it just runs flawlessly.
 
To improve throttle response turn out L screw slightly...1/8 at a time. Saw is Not starting hot because too much fuel/not enough air at 2 turns out...hence folks saying to try starting on fast idle. Sounds like the carb is fussy on this saw. ALL final adjustments should be made when saw is warmed up. If you tune a cold saw, it will be out of tune when hot.
 
i ran true fuel through it yesterday evening and continued using it this morning probably 10 ounces left of 32 ounce can./ i am in ohio how far away are you ball park on price/ i checked locally for a professional but they only work on stihl, husky and echo/ i called one place told them my issue and they said what are H and L, i told them no thanks. bottom line i wanted a pro grade saw, couldn't afford stihl or husky/ bought an efco with no local parts or service support lesson learned pay now or pay later.

You would have to ship it to NY ..............
Price is just any parts I might need ........... plus shipping back to you

The rest is on me .............. a Christmas present to you if you decide to take me up on my offer
 
put saw back together took your advice/ 3 turns on H, 1 1/4 on L, saws starts on half pull and idles perfect/ throttle response weak and misses no power in cut, this is where i get lost if i keep turning H out she runs good then won't start when warm.

Where are you located? I saw ohio mentioned. Cadiz in your name. If that adds up to Cadiz ohio. I am about 45 minutes west of you.
 
Where are you located? I saw ohio mentioned. Cadiz in your name. If that adds up to Cadiz ohio. I am about 45 minutes west of you.
yes i am from cadiz, 45 minutes west coshocton/zanesville
 
Have you tried choking it for a pull or 2 then fast idle? Basically do your cold start technique. If I grab a warm saw and it don't start on the first pull I choke it.
 
I'm in Coshocton, if your by this way for work or whatever or f150 is busy and cant get to it,slip on over and we can get it going provided there is no mechanical damage
 
i ran true fuel through it yesterday evening and continued using it this morning probably 10 ounces left of 32 ounce can./ i am in ohio how far away are you ball park on price/ i checked locally for a professional but they only work on stihl, husky and echo/ i called one place told them my issue and they said what are H and L, i told them no thanks. bottom line i wanted a pro grade saw, couldn't afford stihl or husky/ bought an efco with no local parts or service support lesson learned pay now or pay later.


That saw needs a time out! Show it who is boss. A beating won't help much so jam the nose of the bar firmly in a corner of your shop or garage and don't let the saw so much as twitch for a week!

Once you have shown it who is boss go ahead and buy a couple dollars worth of string at the hardware and try the carb settings given above to see if that helps. If the carb high and low screws which are really needle valves have ever been overtightened it damages the seats and tends to make the carburetor extremely tough to tune, an eighth or quarter turn can be huge. I'd mess with it a little more once it has sat in the corner awhile, you may be quitting two steps from the end of the tunnel.

Hu
 

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