Stuck muffler bolt! I need better torx bits... Two down so far.

[ANewSawyer]

So I picked a new blower, Husqie 150bt. And I am wanting to remove the muffler and look about some potenial mods. But the lowest bolt into the crankcase is stuck. I tried the Husky provided torx scrench. The threads now look like a corkscrew. I have a set of Kobalt Torx bits that are meant to go in a power drill. I grabbed a 1/4" drive ratchet and put a long reach 1/4" socket on there. No twist, just snap! Ping. That is number two. Well, I need some PB blaster but I don't think that will solve my problem. Anybody got a suggestion for better torx bits? Maybe the 6" Wiha torx sockets?

 

[Deets066]

Whia for sure

 

[ANewSawyer]

Well, should I get the 1/4" or 3/8" drive sockets? I have such bad luck with torx that I am almost afraid of what would happen if I used my 3/8" drive ratchet. It has a much longer handle that the 1/4" drive ratchet that snapped off the Kobalt bit.

 

[lone wolf]

Impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer
with a torx bit if it will get in there.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer
with a torx bit if it will get in there.

I might be able to get it in there. Btw, I had not heard of a manual impact driver before. Shows that I am not a greese monkey. Just a self taught shade tree mechanic. Lol.

 

[pioneerguy600]

My 20 volt Dewalt impact has removed a good many stuck/seized machine screws on small engines, some or most would not budge with T handle type long shaft bits, Snap On and Whia included.

 

[Deets066]

I might be able to get it in there. Btw, I had not heard of a manual impact driver before. Shows that I am not a greese monkey. Just a self taught shade tree mechanic. Lol.

I like the Whia T handles

 

[ANewSawyer]

My 20 volt Dewalt impact has removed a good many stuck/seized machine screws on small engines, some or most would not budge with T handle type long shaft bits, Snap On and Whia included.

Well, that is an option but I don't want to strip the bolt or damage the crank case. I may try it.

 

[jerbear]

Snap on impact driver and bits are my go to.

 

[ANewSawyer]

One thing: this is technically used but I don't think that the previous owner touched this bolt. The spark screen was still in there. Anywho, you guys don't supposed that it is loc tited from the factory do you? Doesn't make sense to me though.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Well, that is an option but I don't want to strip the bolt or damage the crank case. I may try it.

I know that the screws would have snapped off if I twisted them any harder by hand, the sharp impact from the driver loosens things without damaging them most times. I have yet to strip a Torx drive head on a machine screw with the impact driver. I have snapped off the ends of the drivers turning them by hand on several 6 mm screws, it didn`t damage the Torx drive on the screw head, the impact driver took them out afterward.

 

[pioneerguy600]

One thing: this is technically used but I don't think that the previous owner touched this bolt. The spark screen was still in there. Anywho, you guys don't supposed that it is loc tited from the factory do you? Doesn't make sense to me though.

Not Loctited from the factory.

 

[blsnelling]

Stihl puts thread locker on many of their muffler bolts. Also, I have snapped off more than one Wiha t-handle. They're still a good tool.

 

[Giles]

If it is possible, to try turning the complete muffler in direction of bolt removal. This may be especially helpful while attempting to remove screw.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Stihl puts thread locker on many of their muffler bolts. Also, I have snapped off more than one Wiha t-handle. They're still a good tool.

When did they start doing that Brad? I have never seen it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I was just working on a MS362 I got recently, the bottom two screws on the intake manifold snapped right off, just small 4 mm screws, heads were all surface rusty, no amount of coaxing would have removed them but the mig welder made it possible to take the threaded sections out rather easily.

 

[ANewSawyer]

20V Impact and PB blaster it is.

Hmm, a set of T-handles is cheaper than I thought. I may go that route. Can't lose with either T-Handle. Maybe a spare t-25 though.

 

[fearofpavement]

Most Stihls use T-27 and some have T-20 as well. Other brands use T-25. Get a whole set if your buying some...

 

[ANewSawyer]

My battery driver couldn't budge the screw.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Then its likely seized in the thread, when they do that there is little chance of getting them out without breaking the head off. Steel screws and aluminum cases don`t get along well.