Tank seam sealant

[Real1shepherd]

OK, this would probably apply to many saws;saws that have a split oil/gas tank assembly seam.

In resurrection of my old Husky 2100, I had the tank split apart. Looks like at the factory the two parts are put together with a press fit and then they spray some sort of liner in there.

I sealed the two halves with the only gas rated sealant I could find here; Permatex #1. I picked this because I thought it ought to at least be hard-set sealant and not soft like #2. I was very careful to get a decent bead all the way around the assembly (where the actual tanks are). I had the assembly clamped over a week and then assembled the whole saw. I was *gonna/shoulda/woulda* test the tanks with water first, but got into a hurry.

So....it leaks.....of course, although the saw never ran better! I guess I'm going to split the tanks again and try with a different seam sealer...any suggestions on how this is 'correctly' done?

Kevin

 

[stubnail67]

plastic tank?

im kinda new to saws its to bad you cant buy an after market plastic tank to pop in like some saws have suppose they dont want it to be an easy fix LOL

 

[alderman]

I don't know about correctly but when I was doing Haz Mat we used a product called Petro Seal.

 

[Real1shepherd]

im kinda new to saws its to bad you cant buy an after market plastic tank to pop in like some saws have suppose they dont want it to be an easy fix LOL

The saws like this consist of basically two parts; the tank assembly (split) and the power head (or jug) assembly with crank. They all mate together on the Husky through the isolation/vibration damper mounts. Oil & gas lines connect the fluids to each assembly. The older Husky and Jonsered saws are a marvel of engineering...they still impress me to this day.

I either have to abandon this tank assembly and find an original that's never been split, or stay the course with my old one. It's weird that in all the saws I've ever fixed/run/rebuilt, I've never had to split the tanks before....I don't recommend it either.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I don't know about correctly but when I was doing Haz Mat we used a product called Petro Seal.

OK, was that to seal the tanks once assembled or was it used in the tank assembly seam? I know about gas tank sealers and I guess that's an option...but since the tanks are so small and accessible, I'd rather attack the seam again, I think.

Kevin

 

[stubnail67]

yea i know what ya mean

yea the tank is like an old poulan but pressed together at factory i got ya! but couldent you find a tank like a craftsman tank the plastic kind im not sure what model and pop one that fit reasonablly and modify it? it would not be orginal but there may be a saw with a plastic tank you could use ?? if you could if would be an easy mod sorry im always trying to do stuff like this i musta watched mcgyver to much LMAO!

 

[TALLGUY]

Check out a product called Seal All. I used it to seal my xp1100 tank when I split it to dig out all the gunk and it hasn't leaked. This stuff doesn't seem to be bothered by gas at all.
search for SEAL-ALL GAS & OIL RESISTANT ADHESIVE

 

[stubnail67]

wow

wow that seal all is bad azz if it does all it says i need in my truck toolbox or my boat!!!! how long does it take to dry cure i mean!!!!

 

[Real1shepherd]

yea the tank is like an old poulan but pressed together at factory i got ya! but couldent you find a tank like a craftsman tank the plastic kind im not sure what model and pop one that fit reasonablly and modify it? it would not be orginal but there may be a saw with a plastic tank you could use ?? if you could if would be an easy mod sorry im always trying to do stuff like this i musta watched mcgyver to much LMAO!

Nah, too much work and besides...fitting a tank inside the original cavity would greatly diminish capacity. The 2100 is somewhat of a gas whore, even with its original tank capacity. I'd rather keep it original...but cool idea anyway.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Check out a product called Seal All. I used it to seal my xp1100 tank when I split it to dig out all the gunk and it hasn't leaked. This stuff doesn't seem to be bothered by gas at all.
search for SEAL-ALL GAS & OIL RESISTANT ADHESIVE

Good suggestion/recommendation...thanks! I actually have a tube of this somewhere...never made the connection on using it for this.;-)

Kevin

 

[buzz sawyer]

I used loctite gasket replacer (red paste) to seal the tank of one of my Homelites but I think the Seal All would be faster. I've used it to glue metal plate on a carb diaphragm. I would put a thin bead on each side, assemble, and let it cure for a couple days.

 

[steven1955]

I was going to try this POR15 brand US Standard Tank Sealer on my neighbors 55 Rancher tank, but I now think the leak is in the filler O ring. I've had good luck with other POR products.

First, the tank halves would have to be absolutely oil free. (I'd put them in the dishwasher while my wife wasn't looking.) Then I'd to do a test to make sure that sealer will adhere to the Husky tank material. If there is good adhesion you could use the sealer as a kind of glue, then after assembly and drying pour some in the tank and rotate the tank to make sure the sealer covers the seam a second time. Test for leaks with straight gas so if you find a leak you won't have to de-oil the tank again to add more sealant.

I'm assuming you are talking about one of the orange plastic tanks like the new Huskys have. If it's a metal tank I'm pretty sure the POR15 sealer will work well. I have some concern that the POR15 sealer may not stick to the Husky orange plastic, which is why I recommend to test adhesion before committing to glopping up the whole tank with POR15. Or any other sealer for that matter.

 

[blsnelling]

I've used products like Threebond 1104 or 1194 and Permatex Motoseal. There are others.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I was going to try this POR15 brand US Standard Tank Sealer on my neighbors 55 Rancher tank, but I now think the leak is in the filler O ring. I've had good luck with other POR products.

First, the tank halves would have to be absolutely oil free. (I'd put them in the dishwasher while my wife wasn't looking.) Then I'd to do a test to make sure that sealer will adhere to the Husky tank material. If there is good adhesion you could use the sealer as a kind of glue, then after assembly and drying pour some in the tank and rotate the tank to make sure the sealer covers the seam a second time. Test for leaks with straight gas so if you find a leak you won't have to de-oil the tank again to add more sealant.

I'm assuming you are talking about one of the orange plastic tanks like the new Huskys have. If it's a metal tank I'm pretty sure the POR15 sealer will work well. I have some concern that the POR15 sealer may not stick to the Husky orange plastic, which is why I recommend to test adhesion before committing to glopping up the whole tank with POR15. Or any other sealer for that matter.

Tank halves are metal. No dishwasher available, but I can clean the seam with solvent. It would be trickier for me to clean the entire tanks spotless. I've heard of using POR15 for leaky tanks with small rust holes etc. There are even products to pour in, to clean and etch the tank first. I think I need to go with something for the seam itself.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I've used products like Threebond 1104 or 1194 and Permatex Motoseal. There are others.

Not familiar with these product. I look into them...thanks.:greenchainsaw:

Kevin

 

[blsnelling]

Not familiar with these product. I look into them...thanks.:greenchainsaw:

Kevin

Check you local motorcycle shops for Yamabond. Same stuff. You should be able to get Motoseal from a good parts house. I order the Threebond 1194 online.

 

[Real1shepherd]

During some more research, Hondabond HT is spoken of very highly and will not corrode aluminum parts like the acidity in many silicone sealers. I beleive it was said the Yamabond was the same stuff. I can most probably get the Hondabond HT here at our big Honda shop.

Kevin

 

[mweba]

I've used products like Threebond 1104 or 1194 and Permatex Motoseal. There are others.

+1
I have used it to "fix" newer plastic husky tanks in the past.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Three-Bond-Thre...wmobile_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2559bebcbc

 

[SkippyKtm]

Check you local motorcycle shops for Yamabond. Same stuff. You should be able to get Motoseal from a good parts house.

Motoseal is great stuff, Very gas resistant, been using it for awhile now (thanks Brad) makes a great replacement for silicone rtv as none of them are gas resistant (believe me, I spent a lot of time researching silicone rtv's). I haven't tried it as an adhesive though, just as a sealer. Its only drawback I can see is that it eats paint, so clean it up quick if you slobber it on a painted finish. You can get Motoseal through your local Carquest dealer (assuming you have one), they'll probably have to order it for you.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Don't know the layout of a 2100 tank, but it may benefit from a little trick someone here at AS threw out in the past. If the mating surfaces can lay flat, find a smooth surface (I use the table saw... glass panes work good too), put down a sheet of fine emory cloth (I use 400 or higher) oil it well and give a light sanding to each surface. This will remove any slight warps in the surface and help the halves to mate flush. While you smooth it, lift and inspect so you can look and tell if there's a high or low spot. Stop when ya feel good that the halves are uniform.

Afterwards, clean the surfaces well. I usually wash with diluted purple power a few times and then wipe the surfaces with a clean cloth dampened with acetone. Several sealers are out there that are fuel resistant, with one's I've used already been mentioned.

Again, just a thought and not sure if it can be done on a 2100 tank. If there's any dowels, they'd need removing, and if there's some adjacent parts that keep it from laying flat, then it may not be possible.

Dan