Tell me about Axes....

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Scott line eh. Sounds like a cool Staff though I like him.

Nice! You know about the bulldog lineage. Yeah, he drives me crazy but he's a good dog. He's under 2 years so I hope he freaking calms down soon.

aim small...hit small

Hmm, I like that mantra. I'll see if it helps. I was surprised I still have my aim. Was able to hit the same spot frequently.
 
Nice! You know about the bulldog lineage. Yeah, he drives me crazy but he's a good dog. He's under 2 years so I hope he freaking calms down soon.



Hmm, I like that mantra. I'll see if it helps. I was surprised I still have my aim. Was able to hit the same spot frequently.
He ain't gonna calm down for a long time! I have a Corso that acts like that he opens doors and ruins anything he can !
 
He ain't gonna calm down for a long time! I have a Corso that acts like that he opens doors and ruins anything he can !

Crap. My ABs calmed down around 3 or 4. He's chewed up so many of my stuff I've had to dog proof my whole house. You ever hear of a Kong toy? Supposed to be indestructible. He chewed it into pieces in about 15 minutes. It cost me $20 freaking dollars.

I like Corsos too. Always wanted a Dogo, maybe a presa too.
 
Crap. My ABs calmed down around 3 or 4. He's chewed up so many of my stuff I've had to dog proof my whole house. You ever hear of a Kong toy? Supposed to be indestructible. He chewed it into pieces in about 15 minutes. It cost me $20 freaking dollars.

I like Corsos too. Always wanted a Dogo, maybe a presa too.
I have a Presa also. Corsos and Staff's or Pits are my favorite they all bite hard and will work.
 
I have a Presa also. Corsos and Staff's or Pits are my favorite they all bite hard and will work.

Nice. Brindle? This is my first pit/staff. I knew they were a little more hyper than an AB but jeez, wasn't expecting this guy. Too bad they have such bad public image. They are great dogs if raised properly. My dog is spooning my wife right now.
 
Wellll, Fiskars just arrived today. I tried it out on some pine. Split through it easily. I tried it on some other rounds and wasn't too impressed.
That's the problem with such high expectations, reality sets in.
I've found the Fiskars won't split (with one whack) most of what I cut. Seriously, it won't split anything a single bit ax won't, although it does it with a bit more authority. I had high expectations also; reading what the "fans" post you get the idea it the next best thing to a Star Wars Light Saber. But the "reality" is, like any other tool, it has its purpose and use... no more than that. I actually believe it would be a better tool with a good hickory handle on it; but then they couldn't use the "lifetime" sales gimmick... and, of course, the head would need redesign. The cost of the thing (not that it's that much) must be mostly the handle anyway, 'cause the steel ain't all that great... too hard/brittle for a striking/cutting tool.

I use the "one-whack" theory when splittin' wood with ax or maul... if one won't do the job, I'm using the wrong tool (an occasional two whacks if the second is just to break the last few fibers or strings). The Fiskars is not effective on Burr Oak, Ash, Black Cheery, Hackberry, Hard Maple, and (straight) Red Elm... but the maul is. The Fiskars is effective on Silver Maple, White Cedar, Black Walnut (most of it), and standing-dead Pine... it does OK on a few of the others I mentioned after they've been halved or quartered by the maul.

Nothing but hydraulics is effective on American Elm... or, at least, I ain't found anything else. Heck, wedge 'n' sledge ain't even effective.
Some stuff just ain't worth tryin' to split with shoulder power.
*
 
I've found the Fiskars won't split (with one whack) most of what I cut. Seriously, it won't split anything a single bit ax won't, although it does it with a bit more authority. I had high expectations also; reading what the "fans" post you get the idea it the next best thing to a Star Wars Light Saber. But the "reality" is, like any other tool, it has its purpose and use... no more than that. I actually believe it would be a better tool with a good hickory handle on it; but then they couldn't use the "lifetime" sales gimmick... and, of course, the head would need redesign. The cost of the thing (not that it's that much) must be mostly the handle anyway, 'cause the steel ain't all that great... too hard/brittle for a striking/cutting tool.

I use the "one-whack" theory when splittin' wood with ax or maul... if one won't do the job, I'm using the wrong tool (an occasional two whacks if the second is just to break the last few fibers or strings). The Fiskars is not effective on Burr Oak, Ash, Black Cheery, Hackberry, Hard Maple, and (straight) Red Elm... but the maul is. The Fiskars is effective on Silver Maple, White Cedar, Black Walnut (most of it), and standing-dead Pine... it does OK on a few of the others I mentioned after they've been halved or quartered by the maul.

Nothing but hydraulics is effective on American Elm... or, at least, I ain't found anything else. Heck, wedge 'n' sledge ain't even effective.
Some stuff just ain't worth tryin' to split with shoulder power.
*
I have found that I can split American Elm once the temp gets well below zero with my maul.
 
The Fiskars with a wooden handle wouldn't be a Fiskars.

The whole point of that tool is that they focused the weight at the 'point of operation', where it does the work, and took it out of the handle, where it does not help.

I'm not going to start one of those physics arguments with the billiards ball experts on this thread, but the extra weight of a wooden handle would not help the splitting process, however, it would be more tiring for the user to repetitively lift.

There are some differences between head shapes. But if a Fiskars only splits as well as a conventional axe that weighs 2 pounds more, it is still offering an advantage. It is not magic.

Philbert
 
the extra weight of a wooden handle would not help the splitting process
No, the weight of the handle doesn't contribute much to the splitting process, but it also doesn't take much energy to accelerate it. I think the main reason for the handle is that they didn't have to incorporate a conventional eye into the head. Plus it utterly changes the manufacturing process by eliminating a material with a lot of variables and requiring more hand labor.
 
I have never cut a green elm. Every Elm I cut is dead standing. It actually splits well by hand in the sub zero temps with my big 13 lb maul.
I almost always cut dead elm and it is moderate to hard to split. The older the better, but before it gets punky.

I cut a live 16" American elm a few years ago and couldn't even get it to split with hydraulics (cut in June). Not for lack of power; the wedge went all in it nearly killing the motor, but no split. It was like trying to split a piece of rubber. After it dried a year it kind of split, but was real messy.

Last winter I cut down a live American elm on a field edge and it split very stringy, but got it done ok. That wood will be nice starting wood next winter. It is still over 20% now after 9 months of split and stack.

I did get a fiskar x27. I agree with those that say it is only good for easy wood. No bur oak or elm. I have split some cherry this fall with it. I mainly use it to resplit pieces for the stove. I have been splitting very large for the outdoor furnace, and resplit as needed for stove or campfire wood. I must have got lucky with a good batch of steel as the edge is holding up ok for me.

I have a few splitting tools to choose from and the 8 lb maul is the most used for me. X27 2nd, 6 lb maul 3rd. Of course I use the hydraulic for most of the wood. Hand splitting is mostly for exercise a little here and there in the evenings.
 
...

I use the "one-whack" theory when splittin' wood with ax or maul... if one won't do the job, I'm using the wrong tool (an occasional two whacks if the second is just to break the last few fibers or strings). The Fiskars is not effective on Burr Oak, Ash, Black Cheery, Hackberry, Hard Maple, and (straight) Red Elm... but the maul is. The Fiskars is effective on Silver Maple, White Cedar, Black Walnut (most of it), and standing-dead Pine... it does OK on a few of the others I mentioned after they've been halved or quartered by the maul.

Nothing but hydraulics is effective on American Elm... or, at least, I ain't found anything else. Heck, wedge 'n' sledge ain't even effective.
Some stuff just ain't worth tryin' to split with shoulder power.
*

I try to stay way from making statements like yours in bold. The reason is because I have no problems splitting black cherry, red oak, ash and hard maple with my Fiskar. YMMV

Elm is a mixed bag. Ive had some that fly apart and some that laugh at you.
 
I try to stay way from making statements like yours in bold. The reason is because I have no problems splitting black cherry, red oak, ash and hard maple with my Fiskar. YMMV
LOL ‼
I had to look up what YMMV stands for ‼
Just stating my personal observations, based on my personal view of effectiveness... I can't think of a reason for shying away from making such a statement.
Although... I gotta' hand it to ya'... YMMV pretty much says it all.
*
 
The white ash I get is easy splitting wood - one of the things I can often use the 3-1/2lb axes for.
 
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