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Bob might like to buy one Neil grab his #

Might be too much bike for bobby, its has 125 cc of copied muscle you know.
The more I looked at the thing it was hard to fathom why a grown man would spend $3000 on a copy. At least the guy did not try and bull sh#t about it as a real vintage BSA. It had drum rear brakes, disc front with spoke rims and tires that would be at home on an old posty bike.
 
I take it that's a very old manual?..Nowadays 2T's don't need oil anymore y'all know that! lol..As for the good old 4T well they still seem to live on in a oil bath maybe we should pull the sump plugs shorely it could do no harm? its 2014 no engine needs oil! I read it on the interwebs true story I tells ya lol....

Careful, some dopy nit witt will try it, all sorts of people read this thread.
What happened to the days when we had W30 and W10 oil, fitted most applications oh and lets not forget '' pre mixed BP in 44's''. Those were the days when saws were saws and men were men.......
 
Why not canola oil? I'm serious. High smoke point, great lubricity. I know people have had varnishing problems with castor oil, but has anyone tried canola oil? I could put a New P&C on the MS390 and run it solely on such a blend and see how long it lasts. Should I take one for the team?

*edit* Holy moly:

http://papers.sae.org/2008-01-1718/
"A two-cycle lubricant was then synthesized via a trans-esterification of canola oil with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar forming canola oil based biodiesel (COBB). COBB proved to have superior lubricity to synthetic lubricant. The superior lubricity of COBB is hypothesized to be due to a saturated solution of non-reacted canola oil in the biodiesel. This hypothesis was tested using mixtures of canola oil in a solution of phenyl acetate as a two-cycle SI engine lubricant. This resulting phenyl acetate/canola oil lubricant (PACO) outperforms synthetic lubricant in terms of lubricity, head temperature, increased engine RPM at full throttle, and engine longevity."
 
i would love to do it for you but just as far away at matt.

i have used a rattle gun for the clutch, every time it gets it off without needing to put rope on the plug hole. i also got the right tool "piston stop" for when doing it up. i like to double check with hand torqueing it.

I do the rattle gun thing as well,to undo and do up,never had a problem.
 
you hanging around for the summernats knobs matt?


No probs with summernats wankers. Biggest issue for me right now is the wankers driveing around looking at the Xmas lights down the street. I told no less then 20 ppl to get there ****ing cars off my lawn last night and the drunker I got the the worse I got. Just bloody brain dead morons
 
I used to be a turner,was a machinest for 25 years mainly use Mazak NC lathes and maching centres.
"Used to" saw the light eh! I gave it up once. Spent 12 months working in grounds maintenance at h.m.a.s Creswell, right on Jervis bay . Best year of my 20 working years! The money wasn't the best though, hence I'm back machining. [emoji2]
 
Why not canola oil? I'm serious. High smoke point, great lubricity. I know people have had varnishing problems with castor oil, but has anyone tried canola oil? I could put a New P&C on the MS390 and run it solely on such a blend and see how long it lasts. Should I take one for the team?

*edit* Holy moly:

http://papers.sae.org/2008-01-1718/
"A two-cycle lubricant was then synthesized via a trans-esterification of canola oil with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar forming canola oil based biodiesel (COBB). COBB proved to have superior lubricity to synthetic lubricant. The superior lubricity of COBB is hypothesized to be due to a saturated solution of non-reacted canola oil in the biodiesel. This hypothesis was tested using mixtures of canola oil in a solution of phenyl acetate as a two-cycle SI engine lubricant. This resulting phenyl acetate/canola oil lubricant (PACO) outperforms synthetic lubricant in terms of lubricity, head temperature, increased engine RPM at full throttle, and engine longevity."

I use 'used' canola as bar oil now. I drain it from my fryer and filter it. It works great, and it is cheap. Virgin canola smells better than the used fryer stuff, but I do not have anything better to do with the used oil. Canola oil has gone down to about $5 a gallon here, while bar oil has gone up to around $10 a gallon. Red: half price & a lot healthier. Spill some, so what? Spray it around the yard, so what? Drink some, so what? Crank up the oil pump, and so what?

I am not ready to use canola in the gas mix just yet. I am not skilled in the bio-diesel making process with the peroxide and vinegar. I presume you have to remove the glycerin? Also I do not have any phenyl acetate handy to blend in.

Here is a blerb from Perdue on the advantages of Canola as a 4 stroke lubricant:

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/proceedings1999/v4-247.html

And one point of interest: <4-stroke blended Canola oil> when tested for marine toxicity was found to be over 210,000 times less toxic than its petroleum counterpart.
 

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