Timberline sharpening results

[memory]

Take a look at my results using the Timberline sharpener and tell me what you think. I don't know if it is just me but I don't think I am getting very good results. I know some of the pics are not real clear, guess I don't have a very good camera for close ups.







Here is the other side:




[URL=http://s170.photobucket.com/user/clarke_017/media/IMG_0665_zps240a5f4c.jpg.html] [/URL]

[URL=http://s170.photobucket.com/user/clarke_017/media/IMG_0667_zps686f0772.jpg.html] [/URL]


I know I created a thread on this in the past but couldn't seem to find it with this new format.
http://[URL=http://s170.photobucket...arke_017/IMG_0665_zps240a5f4c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

 

[machinisttx]

Set your camera to macro mode(should have a flower icon), then back away a bit and zoom in. Setting the camera on a good tripod will help too. The pics don't look bad.

I don't see anything wrong except the flat corner where it should be a sharp point. Something that may make a difference is how you dress the wheel. If you run over it quickly with the dressing stone, it will usually leave a rougher surface, which is better for taking off lots of material. Moving over it slowly tends to leave the wheel surface a little smoother and gives a better finish. Also, I'm not sure what kind of wheel dresser was included, but I suggest googling for "norbide stick". They're pricey, but you will never wear one out, and I think they do a better job than the coarse black "dog turd" dressing sticks.

 

[fearofpavement]

Put it in wood and then determine "results".

 

[fearofpavement]

Um, I don't think you want to dress the grinder...

 

[blsnelling]

I think your cutter may be too high in the tooth.

 

[RedFir Down]

I have never used a timberline before but to me it looks like you need more "hook" on the cuter. (The chain probably doesnt "self feed" very well does it?) I would set the guide so it rides lower in the gullet. If I have alot of gullet to remove I use a 1/8th" or 3/16th" file to clean it up. (It will save your carbide)
If you are using a 7/32" carbide you should have 20% or 1/5th of the carbide above the top plate.....Give that a try.

 

[cowroy]

I will agree that it doesn't look as good as it can get. It doesn't look like it's putting the chisel point on it that a round chisel cutter needs to start cutting, if that makes sense. It looks like it will cut, just not as good as it possibly can. The worst thing I see wrong with that chain is that the depth guides are untouched. File your depth guides off and it will amaze you how much better that very chain will cut.

 

[machinisttx]

Um, I don't think you want to dress the grinder...

The pics with the actual tool didn't show up for me earlier. He said grinder, so that's what I ran with. That isn't a grinder. Looks more like an endmill for a milling machine than an abrasive.

 

[srb08]

I had the same problem. I was not able to maintain the hook because the gullet was too shallow. I used a file to a open the gullet, then hit the tooth with the timberline.
While I was doing that I tried my hand a sharpening the tooth with a file. The results didn't look too bad so I practiced on an old chain. Now I sharpen with a file instead of the timberline.

 

[memory]

I was thinking the tooth didn't have enough of a point as well. That pic was taken after I made two passes with the Timberline. Looking at the tooth from the top, I can see what needs to be taking off to make a point but it just doesn't seem to be taking any damage away. I am using a 13/64 carbide cutter on a 3/8 full chisel chain.

And yes the rakers have been touched although they probably need to be taken down, just haven't done it yet.

Machinistx, I did not say anything about a grinder. It is a tool called the Timberline Chainsaw sharpener.

 

[Metals406]

Your angles won't win any GTG races, but will have real nice longevity in the wood.

 

[ernurse]

Wow are you cutting railroad ties with that. Thats one gunked up chain.

 

[cowroy]

Sorry memory, I meant to say they "look" not they "are" untouched. If it were me, I would definitely file em when you get your tips where you want them. I understand your frustration, so shoot some more pics if you figure it out.

 

[ozflea]

Make sure you get a very crisp edge on the cutter your close just another rub or two

 

[Kenskip1]

Was wondering what brand of chain this is?I did not notice a Stihl, Oregon, ext?? I would certainly clean off the filings before I used it, Ken

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Three things,
1) it looks like you need to take considerably more off in the second pic to get rid of that dull point.

2) doesn't look like its deep enough, thus no hook.

3) a smaller diameter "cutter" might give a little better hook, but won't help clean out the gullet. Is the timberline able to be adjusted down any?

 

[mortenh]

It is clear from picture 3 (labelled "15:36") that the tooth is blunt. You can clearly see the reflection from the edge, where there should have been no reflection.

Use a simple round file, possibly in a file holder/guide, to sharpen your chain, and you'll not only get a sharp chain, but you will save a lot of time fiddling around with that timberline jig.

 

[Gologit]

Three things,
1) it looks like you need to take considerably more off in the second pic to get rid of that dull point.

2) doesn't look like its deep enough, thus no hook.

3) a smaller diameter "cutter" might give a little better hook, but won't help clean out the gullet. Is the timberline able to be adjusted down any?

It can be adjusted for height and it can also be adjusted so that one end is slightly higher or other than the other.
I've used them a lot and my trail crews use them. You have to make sure that they're attached low enough on the bar to get a good depth on the bit into the tooth. It doesn't take much movement to change the depth.
I'm probably not explaining this very well but if you're too high on the tooth you can adjust one end or the other to move the bit.

I've found that a light touch when you're turning the crank will keep the entire assembly from moving and throwing you out of adjustment.There's definitely a learning curve but it's worth it. I know a couple of guys who couldn't pour water out of a boot if the directions were printed on the heel...but with the Timberline they can sharpen their chains as good as anybody. If they can do it you can do it.

 

[memory]

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. I made another pass and I will get some more pics some time today, hopefully. One thing I don't understand about sharpening is the reflection. Why is it on a perfectly sharpened chain, there should be no reflection? I would think since you are exposing unexposed metal, it should be reflective. And what does it mean when it is reflective? Is it possible for a perfectly sharpened chain to be reflective?

 

[GrassGuerilla]

From the 5th pic or 15:39 it appears the carbide is sticking up about 30% above the cutter. Should be about 20% I believe. Correcting that, and removing the shiny area that isn't angled correctly should work wonders.