Tips for getting in and out of these trims faster.....

[tree MDS]

I'm a tree surgeon (mostly amputations) and my tree saw is my scalpel. To limit myself to two handed operations would seem awkward and inefficient, especially for skimming off suckers.

An arboriculural embarrassment is what you are, douchebag.. just saying. I hear ya one the one handing though...

Time for workie, later.

 

[the Aerialist]

Let's have a get together ...

An arboriculural embarrassment is what you are, douchebag..

Somehow I doubt if you'd call me that to my face. You are a perfect example of what's wrong with this forum, and why I keep posting here. Just another spineless poster, very brave behind a keyboard, but in real life you'd foul your pants with one look from a real man with bad intent.

You belittle the men who work for you and then make them pay for a saw you probably left in the fall zone. You are the douchebag MDS, and I'd say that right to your face as I took your pants off and threw them through the chipper.

 

[David (saltas)]

I'm not an aborist aerial or other wise. But that is not how to prune a tree

I'm a horticulturist (diploma) with another diploma of conservation and land management.

At least I know what a branch collar is and how to find a node.

 

[the Aerialist]

OK professor, school me ...

I'm not an aborist aerial or other wise. But that is not how to prune a tree... At least I know what a branch collar is and how to find a node.

Skimming off suckers does not require finding a node. Note what I left on the only significant (and mostly dead) branch I cut off there. I usually make the cut to drop farther out then come back for a finish cut above the collar (often using my Silky for a cleaner cut) to allow proper healing.

Could you be more specific as to what you think I'm doing wrong there?

 

[treeseer]

First off, thanks for posting the vid. Anyone who does not post their work has no bizniss jumping on you re quality etc. Also we cannot see the whole tree or know owner objectives, so commentary is unqualified from the start. Foulmouthed uninformed commentary says a lot about the source.

Could you be more specific as to what you think I'm doing wrong there?

Well, since you asked, and given the above limitations, here goes:

About half the sprouts ("suckers" come from the ground) that you cut off may have been better off left on. Looks like you "skimmed" the entire inner third/half of the branches "clean", aka lion tailing.

Limbwalking to the ends can be useful to make some cuts, but it almost inevitably damages laterals that should stay. A pole saw can reach those cuts much easier and faster.

re onehanding, leave the chainsaw on the ground until you have made all the cuts you can (pole saw very ergonomic--up to 6" not hard on pin oak), then haul it up for the big cuts, which are typically low and interior.

o and diesel dirt, re doing 6 trims in 3 hours, get your boss to buy a wraptor. It will pay for itself quickly; do the math--if it saves you an hour a day that's ~$25/day so it's paid off in 100 days.

 

[lxt]

Somehow I doubt if you'd call me that to my face. You are a perfect example of what's wrong with this forum, and why I keep posting here. Just another spineless poster, very brave behind a keyboard, but in real life you'd foul your pants with one look from a real man with bad intent.

You belittle the men who work for you and then make them pay for a saw you probably left in the fall zone. You are the douchebag MDS, and I'd say that right to your face as I took your pants off and threw them through the chipper.

LMAO....I gotta say MDS, he did have a couple good ones in there: "foul your pants" & take your pants off & throw em through the chipper!! AA...you wouldnt have gone to Penn State would ya?

any way, Doug when you`re in those pin oaks with lots of horizontal limbs & you have to get way out there try double crotching 1-2 limbs above you! higher if you can, it`ll help so you dont rub your manhood off on the limb...sugar bearing out there!



LXT................

 

[Treepedo]

With a multi leader trees I will throw a line into the neighbouring tree or leader and send it down to my man and either anchor it to the ground and srt or have him pull/swing me over to the other lead.
Carry a big stick and what you can't reach from one place you will be able to get from another position.
Sharpen and invest in good pole saws.:msp_smile:

 

[Iustinian]

Sharpen and invest in good pole saws.:msp_smile:

Polesaws? what are those? hahahahahaha. Just climb out there!

 

[tree MDS]

I'd rather climb with a boat anchor!


But I do always have a pole saw on site....usually in the truck.

The best is to just make someone else climb out there! Lol.

 

[Iustinian]

I'd rather climb with a boat anchor!


But I do always have a pole saw on site....usually in the truck.

:agree2:nice putting it in small text hahaha. Yea, they have their place, but they can create BAD habits (bad cuts since you're at a bad angle, PEELING, cutting off your steps so now you can't get out there) every "seasoned" climber knows this. We have had guys here we call "Polesaw Dan" or "Polesaw Chris" sawing a 10" log with a polesaw -- you guys been here awhile I know you've seen that!!!!:biggrin: Our polesaw is most commonly used for: snagging a throwline back down that was allowed to run slightly out of the tallest guys reach hahahahahaha

 

[Treepedo]

Polesaw use adds leverage and can be single point positioning and hitting multiple pruning or removal targets. I use it like a bat and hammer out a lot of dead wood and weak sprouts with a good smack and then use the hook and to push and pull hangers to the ground.
Its the weapon of choice to beat down large pruning jobs from the ground so why not in the tree.
Sure it heavey and awkward at times and other times it can be the right tool for the task.

polesaw will go up and down out of the tree many times in a day, I hate dragging it around so it gets lowered down when major crown moves are needed and then pulled back up if needed.:msp_wink:

 

[the Aerialist]

Speak softly but carry a big stick ...

With a multi leader trees I will throw a line into the neighbouring tree or leader and send it down to my man and either anchor it to the ground and srt or have him pull/swing me over to the other lead.
Carry a big stick and what you can't reach from one place you will be able to get from another position.
Sharpen and invest in good pole saws.:msp_smile:

I've taken to climbing with two climbing lines; LockJack on the long one (200') and SpiderJack on the short one (150') this lets me set the lines for efficient TIPs for two sides of the tree. I'll unsnap from one and go to the other when I have to get around in the tree. At times I'll unsnap to route the overhead line around a limb to get to where I need to be. I did this today for a pruning of a large Maple.

I use a painter's extension pole (10 - 16') as a set pole and leather Cambium savers on my climbing lines. I find that the leather horseshoe makes a good "hook" to precisely place the line.

The video was taken last year while I still had my Cougar saddle. My techniques have improved in the past year and I've upgraded my gear as well, including a Silky extendable pole saw. Still it's good to get the constructive critiques and helpful hints. Thank you Thomas, and to the others offering serious advice.

 

[the Aerialist]

Whip it, Whip it good ...

Polesaw use adds leverage and can be single point positioning and hitting multiple pruning or removal targets. I use it like a bat and hammer out a lot of dead wood and weak sprouts with a good smack and then use the hook and to push and pull hangers to the ground.
Its the weapon of choice to beat down large pruning jobs from the ground so why not in the tree.
Sure it heavey and awkward at times and other times it can be the right tool for the task.

polesaw will go up and down out of the tree many times in a day, I hate dragging it around so it gets lowered down when major crown moves are needed and then pulled back up if needed.:msp_wink:

I use my set pole to push pull and beat out deadwood as well. My Silky is to heavy for me in most cases in the tree, but if I need it I will have it sent up. I'll even have my gas pole saw sent up if I feel it will work best. I did that today to nip off some branches over his house an power lines.

The Silky is best used from the ground. I can reach 20' up with it and it saves a lot of limb walking from the ground on the lower branches. I've even used it from the cab protector of my dump truck with the bed lifted. Poorman's bucket truck I'd say.

 

[lostcoastland]

polesaw will go up and down out of the tree many times in a day, I hate dragging it around so it gets lowered down when major crown moves are needed and then pulled back up if needed.:msp_wink:

Good groundguys like that are clutch, along with running the rope like a god. i make lanyards for my pole. hanging it works good...when your as far out as you can go its mandatory to have a pruner or saw..

 

[Treepedo]

Nice!
Add a good orchard ladder and you can prune with a coffee in one hand and good cigar in the teeth with ease.
By far the best investment is the Stihl telescoping pwr pole saw. Life saver for sure :msp_smile:
How do you rate the spidey to the LJ. Bueno or mo bueno

 

[Iustinian]

First off, thanks for posting the vid. Anyone who does not post their work has no bizniss jumping on you re quality etc. Also we cannot see the whole tree or know owner objectives, so commentary is unqualified from the start. Foulmouthed uninformed commentary says a lot about the source.



Well, since you asked, and given the above limitations, here goes:

About half the sprouts ("suckers" come from the ground) that you cut off may have been better off left on. Looks like you "skimmed" the entire inner third/half of the branches "clean", aka lion tailing.

Limbwalking to the ends can be useful to make some cuts, but it almost inevitably damages laterals that should stay. A pole saw can reach those cuts much easier and faster.

re onehanding, leave the chainsaw on the ground until you have made all the cuts you can (pole saw very ergonomic--up to 6" not hard on pin oak), then haul it up for the big cuts, which are typically low and interior.

o and diesel dirt, re doing 6 trims in 3 hours, get your boss to buy a wraptor. It will pay for itself quickly; do the math--if it saves you an hour a day that's ~$25/day so it's paid off in 100 days.

I somewhat disagree. however, Great point about people posting vids and smack talking though. seriously. :msp_thumbup:

Taking water sprouts isnt necessarily bad -- especially in the exterior of a pin oak, they are likely to get shaded out and turn into deadwood anyway, it will take the tree longer to abort those things and heal than if they are properly cut. Also, if all of them are allowed to grow in, you will have less air circulation thru the crown of the tree, and a greater likelihood of rubbing branches/canker etc. Also helps to keep from adding unnecessary weight on heavy limbs. I'm not saying remove them all, but some definitely, depending on the age and species of the tree.

and to me - liontailing is taking all the lowest limbs, and scalping everything thats left so that theres only leaves on the top 1/4 of the whole tree, NOT taking all the sprouts from the interior 1/3. Like making an oak shaped like a palm tree is liontailing.

A polesaw? hahaha. Riiiiiiiiiiight. Slower. way slower, and for most people (and I'm not saying you) -- bad cuts. You're seriously going to work a whole tree with a polesaw?

Damaging laterals by limbwalking is not inevitable -- unless you're like 500 lbs and wearing chainsaw shoes. My climbing shoes aren't going to cause any damage that decades of changing seasons, rain, snow & ice, wind etc cant. Reaction wood maybe?

I do like what you said about not using the chainsaw except when its needed.

Overall -- Doug, good video, it certainly doesn't look like you did a bad job, and I'm guessing your customer was happy. Cant say the ladder impresses me, or stradling the branch either. You're not the fastest, but it looks like you take care and pride in your work. Limb-walking and no polesaw? you get a few cool points for that. that 200T sounded muffler modded too :msp_thumbsup:

what saddle are you climbing on now?

 

[the Aerialist]

Lo mismo ... De nada ...

Nice!
Add a good orchard ladder and you can prune with a coffee in one hand and good cigar in the teeth with ease.
By far the best investment is the Stihl telescoping pwr pole saw. Life saver for sure :msp_smile:
How do you rate the spidey to the LJ. Bueno or mo bueno

I digg the tripod ladder and will be getting one of those. I used the telescoping Stihl pole saw and found it far to heavy in the tree. I've bought a couple "combo" saws and with the carbon fiber extender it goes as far as the adjustable but is much lighter in weight.

Both the LockJack and the SpiderJack are great climbing aids. The SpiderJack is a bit more sensitive to slack, if you unload it it can slip a bit before it locks up again. Also the lever on the SpiderJack can get bumped by a branch and release so you have to be wary. Slack in it while climbing around a limb today gave me a short fall to my ART Positioner when I got off balance.

Having said all that about the SpiderJack, it's all the same to me, they both work great and are real time savers. You have to be more vigilant in the Spider, but it rewards you with great freedom of movement, as does the LockJack.

 

[the Aerialist]

... I do like what you said about not using the chainsaw except when its needed.

Overall -- Doug, good video, it certainly doesn't look like you did a bad job, and I'm guessing your customer was happy. Cant say the ladder impresses me, or stradling the branch either. You're not the fastest, but it looks like you take care and pride in your work. Limb-walking and no polesaw? you get a few cool points for that. that 200T sounded muffler modded too :msp_thumbsup:

what saddle are you climbing on now?

The customer was very satisfied with the result. Gave me straight "A's" in the A-List rating system and a nice write up to go with it.

My foot locking days are over, as is much speed in the tree. The injuries I sustained in my motorcycle wreck two years ago (crushed chest and broken shoulders) make climbing painful, so these days the ladder is how I get to the office. Maybe I'll take Rope's suggestion and get a Wraptor, until then I struggle with a Kong double-handled ascender and CMI Pantin when I need to go up a rope.

I've got a Buckingham Master Classic that I modified a bit, adding a quick release on the belt strap and a floating bridge as a second tie in, but I don't use that much, it's there if I need it though. I also have the fall protection top harness for it and sometimes wear it, mostly to keep my saw from pulling the harness down.

 

[lxt]

I somewhat disagree. however, Great point about people posting vids and smack talking though. seriously. :msp_thumbup:

Yeah, Now if only he would post a Vid/Pictures of him doing work showing how he adheres to the long posts of advice he gives out on here!!! I would like to see him in a tree where he uses all that knowledge he professes.




LXT..............

 

[Toddppm]

Yeah, Now if only he would post a Vid/Pictures of him doing work showing how he adheres to the long posts of advice he gives out on here!!! I would like to see him in a tree where he uses all that knowledge he professes. LXT..............

####, that he adheres too? I'd like to see him post anything that shows he has any capability to do what he quacks about on here. Fool hasn't shown a video being more than arms length from the trunk of any tree yet. All these nice toys and couldn't walk a limb if a bear was coming up the tree.
and NO, that crotch crawling doesn't count