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Knife Building ShoerFast

Awesome work!Very nice design!I may have missed this in your post ShoerFast but do you have any idea what the finished blade would work out to on the Rockwell C scale?
ShoerFast,there is no Tool Forum yet per say. I have been asking for one but this thread named Tool Forum in the Chainsaw Forum will have to do until the powers that be can justify a separate forum for tools.So if you have anything tool related we would love to see it here
Thanks
Lawrence
 
Extremely nice work Shoerfast, I mean impressive! A.J. Russell one of the nations largest knife/collector dealers is just south of me, I've got to see a lot of custom knives over the years, your work is very,very impressive,especially the metal treatment. How would it compare to D2 or A2 as far as keeping an edge. For years I used high quality carbon steel knives, then lost my mind and switched to stainless for a few years and now am back to my senses using high carbon again. Can't beat them for all around useage/edge holding and ease of sharpening.

Thanks for sharing, a true craftsman!
 
Jack All

I think I warned you guy's about getting lot's of questions about tools from me when we first got going here with this thread so I have a couple more.I will place each one in a different post.

Okay is there any way you can tell a real Jack All jack from a knock off if it doesn't have any lables on it?Maybe I should take a couple of pictures for you.
Thanks
Lawrence
 
Prest Lite Torch

Here is the second question in regards to Presto Lite Torch's.I have an old model and think it would be good to have around for any type of light metal working or soldering.It's missing a few things though like an acetylene tank and regulator/valves.Okay my question is do any of you guy's have one of these Presto Lite's?How do you like them?What is meant by an MC tank?I know what a B tank is but not an MC.Is it better to buy your own tank?Also are those little Presto Lites just for heating thinks up for soldering or brazing?Not sure as I know nothing about this topic.
Sorry, I guess I asked more than one question.
Many Thanks
Lawrence
 
Thanks for the kind words!


Awesome work!Very nice design!I may have missed this in your post ShoerFast but do you have any idea what the finished blade would work out to on the Rockwell C scale?
ShoerFast,there is no Tool Forum yet per say. I have been asking for one but this thread named Tool Forum in the Chainsaw Forum will have to do until the powers that be can justify a separate forum for tools.So if you have anything tool related we would love to see it here
Thanks
Lawrence

The blade showen is etched in a mixture of HC-acid, ferric chloride and farris-chloride. The etching solution attacks tempered-martensite and austensite at different rates.

Mentioning this as it's leaves a distinct pattern in the steel, looks like wood-grain sort of if you see it?

The close-ups show an honest teat-treat, as the spine is unhardened, and each layer towards the cutting edge is progressively harder.

This knife is has a soft back/spine of about 35RC and the cutting edge is in the lower 60's , with ever shade of hardness in-between.

The transition zones are key to a knife that will not fail in the most extreme use.


Extremely nice work Shoerfast, I mean impressive! A.J. Russell one of the nations largest knife/collector dealers is just south of me, I've got to see a lot of custom knives over the years, your work is very,very impressive,especially the metal treatment. How would it compare to D2 or A2 as far as keeping an edge. For years I used high quality carbon steel knives, then lost my mind and switched to stainless for a few years and now am back to my senses using high carbon again. Can't beat them for all around useage/edge holding and ease of sharpening.

Thanks for sharing, a true craftsman!

Testing is another part of this that I truly enjoy!

Knives made out of 5160 and 52100 steels, forged to have a very fine grain structure will take a edge quicker and be a sharper edge then most steels.

To give you an idea, a 20 year old Buck #119 (most would call a very good cutting knife?) will make about 8-10 cuts in 3/4" Manila rope before cutting resistance/ware slow the knife down.

A good 52100 knife will make around 80 cuts before going dull.

There was a seminar at the 07 Blade show describing the process, truthfully, I do not know if this would work on others steel? But have not see another steel out perform 52100 steels.

Here is the start of the lecture if interested?

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Steam Cleaning pros and cons

I have read up on all the various techniques for cleaning saws and parts.As examples I have seen Simple Green and ultrasonic cleaners and various other types of methods.Has anyone tried one of those cheaper hand held steamers?I have seen them advertised on the TV.I think they run about $30.00.I have an idea to place parts on top of a grate that is suspended over a tub of some sort.When the watery oil comes off then evaporates from the tub you could dispose of the oil gunk.Any thoughts on this?
Many Thanks
Lawrence

I have a cheapo steam cleaner and it works better than anything I've tried if you have lots and lots of time and patience. It is perfect for projects where you want to get an item clean without worrying about ruining the item or where nothing else will work. The big drawback is the time it takes to do something with it, unfortunately you are not going to get a lot of steam power from something that just plugs into a home outlet. as you can guess the big industrial steam pressure washers draw a lot of power and that is why they work so quickly.

Because they are not very powerful it is the heat that is doing a lot of the work and the steam pressure is less than impressive. If you are careful you can get much of the same results by just pouring boiling water over something; this might sound too simple to work but you will honestly be surprised at how well this works.

If you do get a steam cleaner, be sure to use distilled water or you will make a mineral mess of the internal boiler
 
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Kevin,

That knife looks sweet bro! You can definitely make out the banding in the blade.

I had the privilege of attending a hammer-in last weekend hosted by Steve Kelley -- Ed Caffrey and Chad Nichols were demonstrating the making of Damascus.

There were several other knife makers there as well. . . I learned a crap load, and it was a blast.

Hopefully, someday, I can afford to attend the Atlanta show.
 
Wood Planes and Hand Drill

Some garage sale finds last year.
Lawrence
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03.jpg
 
Have any on you on here ever seen a old chain drive vise? My neighbor just picked one up at a farm sale. They are smooth operating, I'd like to find one of them, no danger in overtightning and busting the vice, the worse you would do is break the chain.
 
Wedges on a Rope

Saw a guy this weekend who drilled holes through his plastic bucking wedges, and carried them strung on a rope sling hung from a carabiner on his belt (sorry - no photo). Seemed like a simple, practical alternative to a wedge pouch.

I am sure that there is some theoretical weakening of the wedge if too close to either end, or with too large of a hole. But a 1/4" hole and some thin diameter climbing accessory cord shouldn't make a practical difference, compared to dropping and losing them in the woods.

Philbert
 
Have any on you on here ever seen a old chain drive vise? My neighbor just picked one up at a farm sale. They are smooth operating, I'd like to find one of them, no danger in overtightning and busting the vice, the worse you would do is break the chain.

Wow, you must be strong... I've put pipe extensions on vise handles to get even more torque on them and haven't busted one yet!
 
Hand Planes and Hand Drill

Thanks for the reply Jerry.I just love those garage sale finds!Old fella was selling off stuff because he and his wife were moving into a condo.I bought a bunch of stuff from him,he didn't even have the planes on the for sale table but when he saw all the stuff I was picking up he said"Are you interested in hand planes" I said "I might be if the price is right".He brought them out of the house and bought them as well.I got a whole bunch of stuff from him.The planes are not Stanley's from England, but they are from England just can't remember the name off hand.I thing they are pretty flat as well.
Would be great to see any old tools you have Jerry.I will be keeping an eye out
Lawrence
 
Thanks for the reply Jerry.I just love those garage sale finds!Old fella was selling off stuff because he and his wife were moving into a condo.I bought a bunch of stuff from him,he didn't even have the planes on the for sale table but when he saw all the stuff I was picking up he said"Are you interested in hand planes" I said "I might be if the price is right".He brought them out of the house and bought them as well.I got a whole bunch of stuff from him.The planes are not Stanley's from England, but they are from England just can't remember the name off hand.I thing they are pretty flat as well.
Would be great to see any old tools you have Jerry.I will be keeping an eye out
Lawrence

Lawrence, the coloring would lead me to think they may be Rapier brand as they were made in England.
Pioneerguy600
 
I have a bunch of old tools ferreted away. A hand metal drill that uses a chain to go around your work to suck the bit in and uses a brace to power it, and a stanley breast drill with built in level, bunch of old wood and metal levels, and a 1903 Buff&Buff solid brass transit. All kind of other tools.
Maybe go dig them out and take some pictures, when I have some free time!!:)
 
Hand Tools

I have a bunch of old tools ferreted away. A hand metal drill that uses a chain to go around your work to suck the bit in and uses a brace to power it, and a stanley breast drill with built in level, bunch of old wood and metal levels, and a 1903 Buff&Buff solid brass transit. All kind of other tools.
Maybe go dig them out and take some pictures, when I have some free time!!:)

Hi bob
As I mentioned to Jerry in the above post, it would be great to see the old hand tools you fellas have
Thanks
Lawrence
 
Presto Lite Torch

Hi Fellas
I have an old Presto Lite Torch that I would like to use,it's an actelyne setup.I need a few things to get it going though.It would be great if I could find an owners manual/users manual for it,it's about 40 years old.If you know anyone that has one maybe an older fella due to the age of it.I talked to ESAB the dealer for them I they do not have a manual.they did however say that I need a line,regulator and acetylene tank.If you look at the handle of the torch it has that ribbed design that suggests to me that the fuel line was pressed on then fixed by clamps.Is this stiil a safe way to do it?All thoughts and information wiould be greatly appreciated.would really like to be able to use it if safe to do so.
Many Thanks
Lawrence
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Hi Fellas
I have an old Presteo Lite Torch that I would like to use,it's an actelyne setup.I need a few things to get it going though.It would be great if I could find an owners manual/users manual for it,it's about 40 years old.If you know anyone that has one maybe an older fella due to the age of it.I talked to ESAB the dealer for them I they do not have a manual.they did however say that I need a line,regulator and acetylene tank.If you look at the handle of the torch it has that ribbed design that suggests to me that the fuel line was pressed on then fixed by clamps.Is this stiil a safe way to do it?All thoughts and information wiould be greatly appreciated.would really like to be able to use it if safe to do so.
Many Thanks
Lawrence
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Lawrence,I have two of them, one I bought new in 1971 when I was a plumbers apprentice, the other one I bought to work on refridgerators, compressor lines, very fine tip. I can take a pict of them but you are correct the lines just clamp on the torch furrel.
Pioneerguy600
 
Presto Lite Torch

Jerry,that is great news!I would definitely appreciate pictures of those setup's!I think they are special clamps that attach to the ferrules are they not?Not just regular hose clamps.
Would you happen to have an owners manual that you could copy?
Many Thanks
Lawrence
 
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