Tool Forum

[pioneerguy600]

How did we migrate from the tool forum to the home remedies forum?

Philbert

Sorry, but ya has to be healthy to run them chainsaws.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Philbert]

Sorry, but ya has to be healthy to run them chainsaws. Pioneerguy600

This thread has a lot of promise. I just don't want it to degrade from home methods for tempering steel, to home remedies for jock itch.

Philbert

 

[Metals406]

How did we migrate from the tool forum to the home remedies forum?

Philbert

"Tools" for better health and better tasting food.

 

[Banacanin]

"Tools" for better health and better tasting food.

+1 health is the most important tool in your collection.

 

[Brmorgan]

How did we migrate from the tool forum to the home remedies forum?

Philbert

Sorry, my bad...

Back a bit more on topic, today at a hardware store I picked up a 1L bottle of Phosphoric Acid. That's the main acidic ingredient in Coke, which has a good reputation for de-rusting things, so we'll see how it does. I also noticed that they sell big jugs of lye flakes, probably a couple kilograms' worth, for $25 which beats the $8 I paid for about two cups of the stuff a long time ago in the cleaning section at the grocery store. I still have plenty left for now, but it's good to know they have it. One thing I'd like to find a good source for in decent amounts is Potassium Nitrate (saltpeter). That stuff's immensely useful but hard to get more than a few tablespoons at a time. For instance, dissolve it 1 or 1.5:1 with regular white sugar in water (use a small amount and saturate the solution), soak a piece of yarn in it, and once it dries you have a really good slow-burning fuse. Saltpeter & sugar mixed burns a very hot white flame similar to Magnesium, and is even hot enough to set off Thermite, though it smokes like a bugger (look on Youtube). My neighbor told me something to try with it too - he said if you have an old stump you want to get rid of, to drill a few big 1" holes deep down into the stump and pour a bunch of Saltpeter down them, and let it dissolve into the wood over a couple weeks. Then he said if you light that stump on fire with some Diesel etc., it'll burn right out to the ends of the roots underground. I've never tried it but I do have a couple stumps I could stand to see go away if I manage to find enough of the stuff. The couple times I've asked for it at the drugstore the guy looks at me like I'm a terrorist or something and asks what I want it for. I know it CAN be used to make black powder, but I tried years ago in high school for a project (doubt you could do that in school NOW...) and couldn't get anything worth the effort. It basically fizzled like a sparkler, no flash or boom.

 

[Brmorgan]

Here's a good candidate for de-rusting that I picked up out of the scrap today:

It's just a small old crucible and propane/gas heater, likely just for melting lead or babbitt. Hopefully I can get it cleaned up and operational once again. It would be handy to have now and then. The tongs to handle the crucible were missing, but I should be able to figure something out for that.

 

[tdi-rick]

Back a bit more on topic, today at a hardware store I picked up a 1L bottle of Phosphoric Acid.
[snip]

Phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in all commercial rust converters.
IIRC it reacts with the iron oxide and forms iron phosphate instead, which is inert (and a dark purpley black colour)

Our Eucalypts here must have some form of it in the oil in the leaves/sap as when ever any rusty bit of metal is left underneath it is deactivated after a bit of rain with the rust turned a very dark, almost black purple!

 

[Metals406]

Phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in all commercial rust converters.
IIRC it reacts with the iron oxide and forms iron phosphate instead, which is inert (and a dark purpley black colour)

Our Eucalypts here must have some form of it in the oil in the leaves/sap as when ever any rusty bit of metal is left underneath it is deactivated after a bit of rain with the rust turned a very dark, almost black purple!

Maybe you're on to something, and you can make a rust converter out'a Eucalyptus oil?

 

[WesternSaw]

Electric Motors

just read a little article in a woodworking magazine that stated how some buyers of electric powered motors get sucked into buying these motors by misleading horsepower ratings. Many of you know this and probably it's no surprise.They talked about a simple means to find actual horsepower.It came down to what volts your circuit is,amps that the motor draws and watt's.I gathered that it best to look at amp ratings of the motor as opposed to horsepower ratings.And also that most household circuits are 15 amps that you would plug in like a shop vac or table saw that was on 120 volt's as opposed to 240.
Lawrence

 

[BobL]

just read a little article in a woodworking magazine that stated how some buyers of electric powered motors get sucked into buying these motors by misleading horsepower ratings. Many of you know this and probably it's no surprise.They talked about a simple means to find actual horsepower.It came down to what volts your circuit is,amps that the motor draws and watt's.I gathered that it best to look at amp ratings of the motor as opposed to horsepower ratings.And also that most household circuits are 15 amps that you would plug in like a shop vac or table saw that was on 120 volt's as opposed to 240.
Lawrence

Ampere ratings don't mean much either because motors draw currents according to the loads placed on them. I have an amp meter I can use to test real power draw. My 240V 3HP, 15 A rated table saw free runs at about 5A (1.6 HP).
when cutting a 2" thick piece of softwood at a moderate feedrate it draws between 7 and 8A (2.4 HP),when cutting a 4" thick piece of hardwood at a moderate feedrate it draws between 10 and 12A (3.5 HP), if I push it it draws up to 17A (5.44 HP) but it cannot sustain that for too long before it trips out.

 

[Brmorgan]

Yeah you'll need the FLA (full load amps) rating of the motor to get a HP number that is reasonably accurate. My true 1HP tablesaw motor will cut circles around the so-called 2.5HP motor in my little Craftsman contractor saw (and is a LOT quieter to boot). It's because to get that 2.5HP rating, they basically do what Bob did and load the saw until it trips, and take the amperage the motor was drawing at that point. 1 HP = 746 Watts, so let's do the math on that:

Some Ohm's Law formulas:

Voltage / Resistance (ohms) = Amperage
Voltage / Amperage = Resistance
Amperage X Resistance = Voltage
Voltage X Amperage = Wattage
Wattage X HP Rating / Voltage = Amperage

746W X 2.5 = 1865, / 120 = 15.5A

So using their logic you could basically put ANY motor on a 15A 120V circuit, load it until it trips the breaker, and call it a 2.5HP motor. The problem is that while they are loaded and drawing that much amperage, they aren't doing any more work because their cheap coils aren't actually producing any more torque from that extra electricity; it's all being lost to heat. My 1HP tablesaw motor has a LOT more copper and can put out a lot more torque when loaded up.

 

[BobL]

Phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in all commercial rust converters.
IIRC it reacts with the iron oxide and forms iron phosphate instead, which is inert (and a dark purpley black colour)

Our Eucalypts here must have some form of it in the oil in the leaves/sap as when ever any rusty bit of metal is left underneath it is deactivated after a bit of rain with the rust turned a very dark, almost black purple!

That's Tannic acid (and reacts with iron to form Ferrous Tannate) and is why a lot of Aussie creeks and rivers are coffee colored. Tea trees are loaded with it. It's not that effective against rust but tea tree oil is but I think it's a bit expensive compared to other oils.

 

[tdi-rick]

That's Tannic acid (and reacts with iron to form Ferrous Tannate) and is why a lot of Aussie creeks and rivers are coffee colored. Tea trees are loaded with it. It's not that effective against rust but tea tree oil is but I think it's a bit expensive compared to other oils.

Ahh, thanks Bob

I've often wondered what the reaction was, then promptly forgot to look it up..........

 

[WesternSaw]

Bob and Brad

Thanks to both of you for providing the information concerning electric motors and horsepower ratings
Thanks Again
Lawrence

 

[kraftzion]

Great thread

I'll be sending in some tool pictures tomorrow, never heard of the molasses trick before.

 

[Mastermind]

Eklindtool Allens

Yes, I have some allen wrenches at work [ asphalt plant ] Dont remember where I got them ,but they seem to be good wrenches. We've had them quite a while and haven't broken them yet, which is good for us.

I also have a set of their allen wrenches, the long tee handled variety. I have not broken or rounded one off yet. I saw them at a local parts store with a load of dust on them. I arm wrestled the manager for them.

 

[WesternSaw]

Cleaning saw parts

I have read up on all the various techniques for cleaning saws and parts.As examples I have seen Simple Green and ultrasonic cleaners and various other types of methods.Has anyone tried one of those cheaper hand held steamers?I have seen them advertised on the TV.I think they run about $30.00.I have an idea to place parts on top of a grate that is suspended over a tub of some sort.When the watery oil comes off then evaporates from the tub you could dispose of the oil gunk.Any thoughts on this?
Many Thanks
Lawrence

 

[ShoerFast]

Love this forum!

If I may share my latest knife build?

Couldn't find the tool forum, so I also posted this in the Outdoors forum.


Cold forged from a 6 1/2" round bar of 52100 Ball-Bearing steel. Steel matrix structurally modulated during the forging process to promote uniformly fine-grain structure and grain-bonding (wootz-steel , wiki-link:) . By not going over critical temperature, and dozen of cycles through the transition zones.

Triple deferentially hardened, quenched in 145F , 155F and finally 165F Texaco Type 'A' quencher equivalent. 24 hour cryo-soak between quenches.

Triple-tempered 2 hour intervals, cryo treatment between tempers.

Milled Bushing-bronze guard soldiered before an elk brow-tine spacer, with a Desert-Ironwood handle. Interesting chunk of wood, it has a lighting strike running diagonally through it, it has a charcoal smell when working it! (seen better on the left side)

This hunter measures 8 1/2'' total, and has a 3 1/2" blade. The handle configuration leans towards a right-handed user, a couple south-paws mention it feels better in their left hand.

52100 steel that is prepared and heat-treated this way will out-cut (keep an edge longer/ware-resistance) and take an edge faster (extremely small grain, chrome-carbides machine (sharpen) quickly) then just about every type steel out there.

This was a very fun knife to build!

Thank you for looking!

 

[USAFretired]

Knife

WOW,That is one beauty of a knife. You did an awesome job.

 

[Mastermind]

WOW,That is one beauty of a knife. You did an awesome job.

:agree2::agree2::agree2: That is a great looking knife.