nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
I have 2 in my garage. A triple with the hutch, a single that's a stack of wide drawers, and one of another brand that holds just some of my special tools. I need a bigger garage......
Nick
Nick
Tool Forum
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ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
Whats everyone opinion on Kobalt tools?
fdoberman
ArboristSite Operative
Honestly, in 2012 brazing tanks is pretty much a fool's errand, especially for someone inexperienced. I've done a lot of things to many tanks, including launching 1 and balooning another, and given the epoxies available the last 10 years I don't any longer advocate any welding, brazing or soldering on a tank. This method of information conveyance simply doesn't permit me to have sufficient oversight on what someone else does or thinks they understood.
I think those are consumer grade, made in china stuff sold at Lowes. I could be wrong. Personally, I dont like anything made in china. USA would be number one then Germany, Sweden and Japan. My hand tools are Craftsman, S-K, then a mix of some MAC and Snap-on.
Awesome avatar BTW
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nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
I tend to agree with Joe a little here, with one caveat. I would ask what tools you are looking at and what is the intended purpose of them. If you are looking for screwdrivers, I would scrimp, save, sell, to get enough money for Snap-On. Plain and simply, they are the best. I am a high-end European car tech, and have to have great tools. Breaking a tool could cost me thousands of dollarz if it slips and damages something on these cars. Some of my tools are Craftsman, such as flat blade screwdrivers(because they really aren't used on these cars), and 1/4" drive sockets(low torque applications, don't cost a lot to replace if you lose one), and some pliers(but not many). I prefer Marco 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets, because they are strong, and don't cost what Snap-On does. Ratchets are Snap-On for the 1/4" and 3/8", Mac for the 1/2" and Ingersoll Rand for air tools. For those of you guys working on European saws, a European brand tool just seems to fit their fasteners right. I learned that on my R/C helicopters, they use JIS(Japanese Industry Standard, IIRC) Phillips screws, and you really need JIS screwdrivers to not ruin the aluminum screws.
I probably gave an excessive amount of information/opinion, but hey, I fix things, and tools are my lifeblood.
Nick
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think those are consumer grade, made in china stuff sold at Lowes. I could be wrong. Personally, I dont like anything made in china. USA would be number one then Germany, Sweden and Japan. My hand tools are Craftsman, S-K, then a mix of some MAC and Snap-on.
Awesome avatar BTW
I bought a bunch of kobalt tools at lowes.
Magnet tray, presicion file set, reg file set, 1/4 drive socket set, screw bit set for my power drill. Alan wrenches, and a few other odds and ends. I use em on my saws, and the tools seem to hold up really well! At least for what i do. I dont fix 200,000 dollar cars.. Or huge machinary, Just old macs and homies that sat in the shed for 20 years. I was even suprised on the screw bits, they dont strip out very easily. Not sure if kobalt is china made? But im sure they are
Thanks, she is a fine looking women
right after that photo shoot we made love! 
Nick, I dont see why your only tool isnt a bfh? (big f###n hammer) after all thats how they fix everything in russia
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
First off, I just want to make sure that everybody understands that was my opinion. I just don't want you guys to think I am just being a snob about tools because I'm not. I just happened to be good at fixing cars, and found a niche market. The tools I chose were selected for the main reason that I needed that level for my career.
So yeah, thus far, the only tool I've had to buy for saw work is the little ring compressor, and a splined carb adjusting tool.
I have a couple BFHs in my possession, a 3lb sledge for adjusting Maserati trunk lid latches, and a pair of 12oz hammers, one copper head and one plastic. You get anything bigger out and people start telling you "You do k.ow there is a special tool for that, right?"
For light duty work(to me almost all small engine work is), Kobalt is probably just fine. I still stand by Snap-On screwdrivers though, for anybody. Who hasn't screwed up a screw installing a light or curtains, or something like that?
Nick
So yeah, thus far, the only tool I've had to buy for saw work is the little ring compressor, and a splined carb adjusting tool.
I have a couple BFHs in my possession, a 3lb sledge for adjusting Maserati trunk lid latches, and a pair of 12oz hammers, one copper head and one plastic. You get anything bigger out and people start telling you "You do k.ow there is a special tool for that, right?"
For light duty work(to me almost all small engine work is), Kobalt is probably just fine. I still stand by Snap-On screwdrivers though, for anybody. Who hasn't screwed up a screw installing a light or curtains, or something like that?
Nick
I bought a bunch of kobalt tools at lowes.
Magnet tray, presicion file set, reg file set, 1/4 drive socket set, screw bit set for my power drill. Alan wrenches, and a few other odds and ends. I use em on my saws, and the tools seem to hold up really well! At least for what i do. I dont fix 200,000 dollar cars.. Or huge machinary, Just old macs and homies that sat in the shed for 20 years. I was even suprised on the screw bits, they dont strip out very easily. Not sure if kobalt is china made? But im sure they are
Thanks, she is a fine looking women
Nick, I dont see why your only tool isnt a bfh? (big f###n hammer) after all thats how they fix everything in russia
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
Well congratulations on that second part!
Theres a guy at work who uses kobalt and husky (new) hasnt had any problems as far as I know, we dont put huge stress on our tools re-furbishing vending machines. But we do use the tools all day everyday. At work I have a mix, Craftsman 19.2v impact, I use this a lot and its been dropped off ladders, and used hard, works awesome. I also have the new Millwaukee 18v Lithium 1/2" hammer drill and use it a lot. For hand tools, its a hodge podge of stuff, Diamond 12" adjustable, Utica wrenches, Vaco nut busters, and craftsman screwdrivers
Finally stepping out of the ni-cad stone age. Picked up the 18v Li makita drill/impact/light combo. What a significant difference in both weight and performance over the ni-cad ryobi set I was using.
Taping tools are ok so far, I have the stainless mud pan, 14" and a 8" knives. Pan does not drip and the blades have a decent flex and I am picky about what I like for taping tools. Ones that I like, I use till they are worn out, I have quite a few that are still newish, and will remain like that because I don't like them. Life is too short for uncooperative taping tools......especially when you are taping!
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
I understand, im picky with my tools, they all have there place, and cant really stand them to be dirty, good for you niche markets are always the best! I bet you make a killing at it! Cheap screwdrivers are a PITA!
Well congratulations on that second part!
Theres a guy at work who uses kobalt and husky (new) hasnt had any problems as far as I know, we dont put huge stress on our tools re-furbishing vending machines. But we do use the tools all day everyday. At work I have a mix, Craftsman 19.2v impact, I use this a lot and its been dropped off ladders, and used hard, works awesome. I also have the new Millwaukee 18v Lithium 1/2" hammer drill and use it a lot. For hand tools, its a hodge podge of stuff, Diamond 12" adjustable, Utica wrenches, Vaco nut busters, and craftsman screwdrivers
I was joking about the model thing... (damn!)
There GREAT little drills, I love mine to death. I bought a set of them 2 drills, 3 batterys, and a metal case for 200 some dollars.
It used to take about an hour to tear a 066 down to the crank... Now it takes just around 30-45 min
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
Getting a little off topic, but what do you do?
I wouldn't say my niche market makes a killing, the economy really hit exotic cars hard, but we are hanging in there.
Nick
I wouldn't say my niche market makes a killing, the economy really hit exotic cars hard, but we are hanging in there.
Nick
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
Im an x-logger, the log market fell out. And I was forced to find greener pastures. I found out about the moving buisness. Traveling the country in a semi and moving peoples things. Its good money, and I do all my saw work when im rarely home.
Congrats, I've had that set of drills for 2 years now and use the drill about 20 hours a week. It fits the hand perfect and is well balanced. I use 3/4" self feeding bits in it often and have had no problems. It's a very well built tool and it'll take alot of abuse. The guy I work with dropped his off a 12' ladder and his has a crack behind the chuck but is still running strong. The milwaukee set looks very similar, I've wouldn't be surprised if they were related. I was just checking out refurbished 18v makitas on the bay for 35 or so just for a backup.
Air Hoses
A while back we were discussing air hoses for compressors and pneumatic tools. I have three, by matter of accident and opportunity: polyurethane, rubber, and PVC (in order of retail cost). I bought the rubber one with a compressor - it was the standard hose. I bought the polyurethane hose as it is much thinner and extra flexible, which makes it easier to use. I got the PVC hose at a garage sale, and noticed that it is the least expensive to buy new at home centers. All are rated at PSIs much greater than I will ever run (300 psi)
Yesterday, I learned something about the PVC hose when I pulled it outside to blow off a saw. At around 30 degrees F (not very cold for Minnesota) it quickly became quite stiff. I don't know at what temperature it would actually crack, but it became unmanageably stiff - the coils would not uncoil. So I guess this stuff is OK for a heated shop or basement, or for you guys near the equator, but a reason to consider the rubber hose.
Have not tried the polyurethane hose outside yet.
Philbert
A while back we were discussing air hoses for compressors and pneumatic tools. I have three, by matter of accident and opportunity: polyurethane, rubber, and PVC (in order of retail cost). I bought the rubber one with a compressor - it was the standard hose. I bought the polyurethane hose as it is much thinner and extra flexible, which makes it easier to use. I got the PVC hose at a garage sale, and noticed that it is the least expensive to buy new at home centers. All are rated at PSIs much greater than I will ever run (300 psi)
Yesterday, I learned something about the PVC hose when I pulled it outside to blow off a saw. At around 30 degrees F (not very cold for Minnesota) it quickly became quite stiff. I don't know at what temperature it would actually crack, but it became unmanageably stiff - the coils would not uncoil. So I guess this stuff is OK for a heated shop or basement, or for you guys near the equator, but a reason to consider the rubber hose.
Have not tried the polyurethane hose outside yet.
Philbert
promac850
formerly promac610
I learned about PVC air hose the hard way too...
I have since concluded it's only good to run from the compressor, along the wall and ceiling to a drop point, where a hose reel/etc. would be placed...
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
I'm glad you adapted and made it work. Hopefully the logging picks up and you can run the saws more.
Nick
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wood4brainS
ArboristSite Operative
Anyone help me out here ?
I'm trying to identify a bar model and hopefully a number.
I've searched and Googled this thing and no luck.
I have a bar with a roller tip.
Looks like a Rollomatic ES.
Had a new tip put on it.
11 tooth sprocket.
Supposed to have been rebared. So said.
Been primed, painted.
Tip is marked B1 3/8 with a felt tip pen.
The only numbers that are on the bar are....
790 DB
3 0510 at he back by the mount slot.
it measures 23 inches end to end.
Guide slot measures .070 about 95% around the bar.
Has a 3 rivet nose tip like an ES.
I'm trying to identify a bar model and hopefully a number.
I've searched and Googled this thing and no luck.
I have a bar with a roller tip.
Looks like a Rollomatic ES.
Had a new tip put on it.
11 tooth sprocket.
Supposed to have been rebared. So said.
Been primed, painted.
Tip is marked B1 3/8 with a felt tip pen.
The only numbers that are on the bar are....
790 DB
3 0510 at he back by the mount slot.
it measures 23 inches end to end.
Guide slot measures .070 about 95% around the bar.
Has a 3 rivet nose tip like an ES.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
I think it's a 20" (51cm) GB bar of some sort, but I've never heard of a DB mount. They do use a 3 rivet tip similar to a Stihl ES bar. Since all the other GB mounts for Dolmars start with a D it may be a Dolmar mount but I'm no expert on bar mounts for those saws. If you could get a measurement of the bar slot height it would help?
Those rails are pretty spread if they are at 0.070", they should be more at 0.065-7 for 63 gauge.
